Orient
first presented its multi-year calendar watch in 1965. The concept was simple
and clever: they had a disk printed with the years – 1960 to 1981 on that first
version – and weekdays, installed on the movement. A second crown was used to
rotate the disk around and when the year was placed under the corresponding
month at the bottom of the dial, the weekdays would "magically" show
just above the respective date at the top of the dial.
These
first calendar watches are quite hard to find nowadays. Even pictures of this
model are not too common – here's one of the few I've found online:
The
concept quickly turned popular and became one of Orient's more recognizable
designs. Why is that? I think the secret is in the clever compression of a lot of useful information into the tiny bit of available space left on the watch
dial. Remember that was the era before smartphones and even before personal
computers; the wristwatch was the only piece of technology most people would be
carrying around. The multi-year calendar was like getting the latest mobile app
installed on your phone.
The
added disks also meant the watch had to be bigger than most timepieces of the
60's; at around 39mm in diameter, it must have had a substantial wrist
presence.
Over
the years, the multi-year calendar evolved. Within a few years, Orient added
the annual calendar feature to its new line of automatic movements that
featured a date quick-set pusher at 2, and so the year-wheel rotation crown had
to be moved down to 4.
An
entirely new configuration of the calendar was launched in 1976. The year-day
disk was replaced by a day-only arrangement. This was not as smart as a
system that arranged the days for you based on the month and the year, but it
was elegant and the wearer only needed to set it once at the beginning of each
month. This picture of the '76 model is from Orient's official site:
Orient's
successful design also inspired other watchmakers. The most common reiteration
of the multi-year calendar was produced by Soviet brand Raketa. Available as
both hand-wind and quartz versions, this useful and affordable type of watch
became widely popular among Russian students, earning it the nick-name
"college watch". Other names by which this "complication"
became known by were "annual" and "perpetual" calendars –
although, strictly speaking in horological terms, it is neither annual nor
perpetual.
Despite
calendars becoming instantly available to any smartphone owner, the popularity
of the Orient multi-year calendar remains. Orient produce them in a multitude
of colors, shapes and sizes (at some point there was even an Orient Star
version).
Here
are my two calendars – the funky multicolor version I wrote about on one of my previous articles, and the more sporty and professional looking 50th
anniversary model – which, thanks to the GMT time zone display, has an even
greater abundance of information on the dial… which means, you'd never get
bored staring at it!
Another thing to note is that the watch was private labeled to Swiss brand Wittnauer as the wittnauer 2000 watch in the 1970s
ReplyDeleteThank you for noting this! I saw photos of that Wittnauer but was not sure whether it was made for them by Orient or did they buy the design or the movement. So this is clearer now.
DeleteA Very nice blog you have here, very informative. I love Orient watches and I think i have that first Orient multi year calendar watch.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.instagram.com/p/CIgCGRfrCkn/
Thank you for all the info on Orient Watches. Cheers.
Thank you Giovani! Yes this looks like the first calendar - and in pretty good shape too. Congrats!
DeleteGuess that some pics are being used here: horasyminutos.com/2022/05/09/en-video-orient-multi-year-un-calendario-para-los-proximos-23-anos/
ReplyDeleteYo tengo ese primer multi year calender
ReplyDelete