Blog readers will have noticed by now that after covering a topic in general, I like to give a concrete example. So – having recently discussed Cushion Cased watches – today we'll turn the spotlight onto a very striking example of such a watch, the Orient Star ref. WZ0221ER.
This model was released in the early-mid 2000s, most likely 2004 (though
it is hard to date more precisely). It was sold as a limited – but not numbered
– edition, available only from select Orient dealers in Japan, similar to
today's "Prestige Shop" releases.
Some sportier variations on the theme, using the same case but equipped with a steel bracelet and featuring a 12-3-6-9 dial, were also sold at the time – see references WZ0141ER, WZ0151ER, and WZ0161ER, having a black, white, and a kind of pearl-champagne dial, respectively.
This piece, however, was decidedly dressy. With its classically
implemented Arabic numerals and Breguet hands, standing out against the silvery
dial, it has a unique style that is both classy and minimalist. Coupled with
the black leather strap, this watch is the ultimate dress watch for people who
do not mandate that their dress watch has a round case.
Focus more closely on the dial, and its intricate nature is revealed.
It's not a simple sunburst silver. The texture is so fine that in certain
conditions, it takes on a milky character. When the light is more direct,
though, the dial appears more like silver, and the sunburst effect is more
evident.
There is another cool effect produced by clever design choices made by
Orient. The Second hand is silver and often blends with the background,
offering an uncluttered dress-watch-like view of the time. Yet with a slight
tilting of one's wrist, it shines back into sight, for when more accurate
timing is needed.
Interestingly, the Orient Star logo used on the dial and case back is
the more elaborate variation. Orient more frequently uses the simpler,
thin-line version of its logo, and it's not simply a matter of one being newer
or older – you can see Orient switching between the versions back and forth
over time, sometimes even having the same model change logo during its
lifetime.
While Orient also used this elaborate logo in sporty watches, it
definitely looks good in this dressy piece – and it further sets it apart from
the aforementioned sportier references, which used the more common thin-line
logo.
Inside the watch resides Orient's automatic caliber 487 with its 21
jewels and 40 hours of power reserve. It does not hack or hand-wind, but it
does have a buttery smooth and perfectly quiet action.
Not all iterations of cal. 487 are equal. In this 48787 variant, the
rotor is nicely decorated, and the OS logo is golden. The movement bridges here
also have a pearlage application.
On the wrist, this Orient Star wears like a boss – as expected. It is
38mm wide without the crown, and 45mm long lug to lug, a great size for a
modern dress watch. It's a little over 13mm thick including the domed mineral
crystal. However, as discussed on that Cushion Cases blog post, the case design
creates an appearance of a much slimmer piece.
Okay, so you say, "I'm convinced, I wanna have it." Not so
fast! This is one tricky piece to find. Most JDM Orient Star of the early 2000s
are hard to come by. And this, being limited distribution, is even harder.
However, I know of at least one person who was able to buy a WZ0221ER recently
(after I got mine about a year ago), so it is not impossible.
What would be a good price to pay for this model, should you locate one?
Again, it's hard to say. I got mine for around 400 USD, almost NOS and tag
still on. It felt like a fair bargain, given the quality and rarity of the
watch. Still, the nature of rare Orients on sale is such that you might find
one in excellent condition selling for 250 USD, or one that is scratched
through and through with an asking price of 800…
Yes, indeed this is a lovely piece and I dont know if you meant the person who found this recently was me?! I found mine unused with the original bracelet, and yes it was really a difficult hunt! Great review as always.
ReplyDeleteOkay that makes it two people :) ...I now recall you mentioned getting it, I believe it was you who uploaded a pic on the blog FB page about 3 months ago?
DeleteThat wasn't me and as a tribute to your post, i will wear them tomorrow and post it! I changed my kept the original leather strap intact as i replaced with a black bracelet right away.
DeleteThree WZ0221ER owners then! So it's not super rare, just... rare :) and fantastic. Looking forward to your post!
DeleteThere are so many orients from that period that I would love to own.
ReplyDeleteIt was a good period for the brand, in terms of design.
DeleteThank you, well written as usual. I love how you see things that many people would miss.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the compliment 😊 ... Always trying to make things more interesting
DeleteAiming to find one. Anywhere else you see it bring sold? Came close to buying the Orient small seconds watch but then love the cushion case even more
ReplyDeleteAs I've seen a couple of these being bought lately, it means less available out there... Anyway, no better way then just keep googling for the reference, running eBay searches, checking out watch sale forums etc. till one pops up.
DeleteI am getting a offer of 390 euros+shipping for Orient Star ER11-C0 cushion model.
ReplyDeleteWorth the deal as I know not many around from 2000s.
Sorry that was a question if its worth the deal? :)
ReplyDeleteIf it's in good condition, then that's a good deal in my opinion. Particularly if the case looks good. As opposed to divers and tool watches, that can take a few scratches, this is a watch where you really want a clean case.
DeleteFinally found one for 200 eur however not the one I wanted that is white / cream dial. Still a amazing one and I changed the strap to give it a more vintage look. Any other straps you recommend for a black dial?
Deletehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/191633724@N08/50769176368/in/datetaken/
Congrats on this lovely find! I think a black strap would be best, but one with nice croco pattern (or actual croc...) - or if you feel adventurous, a dark red / burgundy leather might work well.
DeleteGreat.. Thanks
DeleteAnother clean shot
Deletehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/191633724@N08/50790562577/in/datetaken/
Yesss! Looks beautiful and clean. Again, congrats!
DeleteYes.. Quite well kept. Thanks for the inputs and writing this blog.
ReplyDeleteGreat piece that u have here. Mine that I owned is bambino 36mm, and it was Love at first sight. Now still searching for orient star to add in my collection.
ReplyDeleteWell, 2021 is Orient Star's 70th anniversary, so some cool stuff is on its way!
DeleteJust chiming in to say that I picked up a mint black one recently from Japan. I used Sendico, a proxy service. It looks almost brand new and I paid less than 300 bucks including customs fees.
ReplyDeleteReferring to the 0141ER I presume..? Sweet, and rare. Congrats!
DeleteDid not include the bracelet though. I've got it on a nice Hirsch Ranger strap. But someday I'd like to track down the bracelet.
ReplyDelete