Orient Star 200m Diver Hands-On Review

About six months ago Orient made a big announcement introducing two new lines of Orient Star divers. It seems the timing was just right, as fans of the brand were eager to get new high-end divers, and in fact our story covering the announcement became the blog's most read ever post – and by some margin.

Adding to the excitement was news that one of these new diver line-ups, the "air diver" (as it was sometime referred to) had won the prestigious Japanese Good Design Award. Now, to put things in proportion, many products in different categories win this award every year, and even in 2019 there were a bunch of other watches getting awards (although mostly smart watches). However this was still quite an unusual event, as most Orient watches – as much loved as they are! – are acquired taste, sometime quirky, and far from the sort of mainstream designs that usually win awards.

So after all this build-up, what's this diver actually like? Well, today we'll be examining this issue closely as we have in our hands the lovely Orient Star 200m diver reference RK-AU0303B.

Some quick specs: watch case is 43.6mm wide and 51.1mm long lug-to-lug. Add 14mm of thickness for overall dimensions that are not huge but clearly make for noticeable wrist presence. Inside is the new caliber F6N47 – very similar to the F6N43 found in the Outdoor models for example, but apparently constructed and tested to dive-watch ISO and JIS B standards.

How It Looks

"Looks" seems to be a very pivotal aspect of this watch. This one is a pretty boy. This is the Cristiano Ronaldo of watches. If you gonna hit it – not in the face!!! Please.

Seriously though, it seems that someone was doing some overtime at the design department. The watch is very, very elegant. Almost the exact opposite of the rugged, hard-core looks of the 300m pro saturation diver we covered last month.

Everything about the watch is rounded. The hands, markers, and lugs in particular stand out in this respect, all bearing this very soft form. Adding to the soft impression is the absence of crown guards, and it becomes clear this Orient has no tool-watch aspirations. This is an office watch. A desk diver. It's got nothing to do with its water resistance, depth rating or other functional aspects – it's just the character of the thing. Dammit it's a diver you can wear with a suit. It's pretty. Did we already mention Ronaldo?

The case and lugs are mostly brushed in parts that are visible when worn, and polished underneath. The case is not brushed, however, between the lugs, that being the only visibly bright patch. I'm not sure I like it – although this will be hidden in versions where a steel bracelet is provided. The back side of the case bears only the Orient Star logo. No marine creatures engraved here. And no exhibition case-back either.

Closer examination of the dial reveals the quality of the matte finish, the applied markers and hands. Everything here has fine texture, but everything is also very subtle. The applied markers are flat enough to be mistaken for paint from a distance. The dial texture, grainy on most parts but circular at the power reserve display, can easily be mistaken for being just flat (although in reality a simple flat dial could not produce the visual depth of one with texture). It's all very much "Understated elegance".

The watch looks like it is trying hard not to overwhelm. Yes, Orient can do dials and cases that are very impressive and full of surprises, but there's a whole lot of people out there who prefer something more mainstream – some might call it more sophisticated – and here Orient are presenting a more mature side of their range. I think entering the brand's 70^th year in existence, there is a lot of sense in doing something that appeals to wider market segments like this. Hopefully while not neglecting the slightly more leftfield portion of their fans.

Most importantly, and this is good news for Orient – it seems this mature approach works. The majority of people who saw the watch seemed to like it a lot, including some who are generally not fans of the brand and dislike much of Orient's typical design DNA.

How It Wears

The reference being reviewed comes on a silicon rubber band. While I would have loved to try on the steel bracelet that is offered on some other references in the family, silicon has its advantages particularly for a watch that still goes by the name of "Diver".

That said, the band supplied with the watch seems to be of good quality, is soft and smooth, and feels good on the wrist. The watch generally wears quite comfortably, despite its size. It doesn't feel small – but not too heavy either. The curved lugs keep the watch close to the wrist, helping to reduce the perceived heft.

On my 7.25" wrist the lug-to-lug dimension was just right, with no overhang. In fact still having a few mm to spare, the watch should be a perfect fit for wrists 7" or larger, and I believe would still work – albeit appearing chunkier and therefore losing some of its dress-watch appeal – for 6.5" wrists as well. Any smaller than that, it would be recommended to try before buying.

One thing that should be noted though, is that the somewhat dressy appearance might be misleading when trying to fit the watch under tight cuffs. 14mm are normal thickness for a dive watch, and the smooth bezel helps if you don't button your sleeves too tightly, but don't expect it to just disappear under the cuff like a true dress piece.

How It Functions

First thing to operate on a dive watch is the bezel (yes even before adjusting the time. We're childish and watches are toys). Bezel action here is, above anything else, pleasant. It is clearly easier to turn than in professional divers, with very little force required. It's kind of like the difference between hard-core sports cars which normally feature heavy steering, and the sort of mass-market-sports-like cars where the manufacturer doesn't really want the driver to work too hard at the wheel. Again – this here is not a hard-core dive watch, but rather an elegant diver-styled timepiece for the office.

With that said, the unidirectional bezel really is highly usable: very grippy, its clicking sound is satisfying, and back-play is minimal. Note that the bezel insert is aluminum, meaning it could probably scratch fairly easy compared to modern ceramic bezels or even steel. The matte finish might add some durability, but it's too pretty to test… (and please don't mention Ronaldo again).

Crown action is excellent, possibly providing the most tangible difference between this Orient Star and mere non-Star Orient divers. It screws and un-screws easily with just the right amount of force needed, and easy to grip and use for winding and setting the time and date.

Once set, legibility is superb. The hands and markers are clear and stand out boldly against the black dial. The power-reserve is presented very subtly and does not obstruct time-telling in any way. Lume too is excellent, potent and lasts for quite a while.

Despite its perceived tenderness, the watch seems to be built to withstand inadvertent bumps and hazards that might come its way. Front crystal is sapphire, and is further protected being slightly recessed below the edge of the bezel. The watch is waterproof to 200m and complies with ISO standard for dive watches. So it can definitely take a splash.

Accuracy here is the best I got in an Orient Star out of the box: plus 3 seconds in 48 hours of normal use, so about 1.5 seconds a day. That's proper chronometer performance, and I think by now it is safe to say that the stated +25/-15 accuracy of most Orient Star models can be seen as no more than extremely cautious safety margins by the Japanese manufacturer.

The Bottom Line

The Orient Star 200m air diving watch is quite an unusual offering from Orient. It is an elegant creation that manages to pack a lot of originality while keeping it easy enough to digest by consumers who are not typical fans of the brand. The result is a properly trendy desk-diver with stylish, almost dressy looks, excellent finish for the most part, and first-rate performance.

If we need to find some downsides to the watch it would be some minor imperfections like that polished spot between the lugs, and the unbranded clasp attached to the silicon band. These are fairly minor issues, and not relevant if you're getting one of the models on bracelet (like the beautiful blue ref. RK-AU0304L or the more understated ref. RK-AU0301B).

Other concerns are more philosophical than actual issues. One would be the soft elegance of this watch, which would probably prevent most owners from taking advantage of its sportier capabilities. The other, as an avid Orient fan, reminds me of how I felt as an Alfa Romeo fan when too many people around me started to like the modern Giulietta model – is it too mainstream? Has the brand decided to let go some of its identity in favor of commercial success? Well, there's nothing wrong with commercial success, and Alfa then did go on to release the outrageous 4C… so hopefully Orient will be able to strike a good balance between mainstream and edgier offerings (like the Orient Star semi-skeleton sport watch released alongside the air diver).

Official prices for the 200m air diver vary from around 680 USD on rubber to around 800 for the limited blue edition with both steel bracelet and rubber. The model reviewed can be found in stores at around 600 USD.

While providing good value for money, this segment of the market is not devoid of competition. For instance, Mido's Ocean Star Captain, a similarly minded "dressy diver" is found at similar prices, and while offering less character and originality of design, features an 80 hour power reserve and slightly slimmer profile. Bottom line, this is very much down to personal tastes.

The blog's verdict: The Orient Star 200m Air Diver is a well made watch, which cleverly combines dressy elegance with dive-watch characteristics, and its design succeeds in being both original and easily digestible at the same time. As such it should appeal to many consumers, including (and possibly, mainly) those who are not particularly fond of the brand's other designs.

The blog would like to thank Orient – Epson Europe for providing us the Orient Star 200m Diver for review.

First Wave of Orient's 70th Anniversary Releases – King Diver and Retro-Future

We have been waiting to see what surprises Orient has in store for its fans to celebrate 2020 as the brand's 70^th anniversary. And today the first wave of anniversary releases begins rolling out, in the shape of two very interesting re-issues: The King Diver and Retro-Future.

First up is the "Weekly Auto Orient King Diver", originally launched in 1965 and a true iconic model of the brand, with the new version due for release on March 19.

The new models appear to be a very faithful reproduction – including the unique hands, the round weekday window, the inner rotating bezel… absolutely authentic! Only slightly larger, at 43.8mm wide vs. the original's 42. Lug-to-lug length is 50mm, and the watch is 14mm thick, including the mineral glass (which seems to be somewhat domed). Lug width is 20mm. Driving the watch is caliber F6922, hacking and hand-winding like all F6 movements.

The result is simply beautiful, and assuming the quality is there – we're in for a treat. At little over 400 USD for a cool looking "super-compressor" style diver (rated to 200m) this one should be a sure success.

Models include the black dial reference RN-AA0D11B (limited to 1,000 units for the Japanese domestic market), red dial ref. RN-AA0D12R (500 units), green dial ref. RN-AA0D13E (500 units), and gold gradient ref. RN-AA0D14G (1,000 units).

The second announcement is based on a more recent model, the Orient Star "Retro-Future" family and specifically the "Camera" from 2005. Curiously though, the new release is labeled Orient, not Star.

The new Camera model, ref. RN-AR0204G, is limited to 2,300 units, and will be available as of April 23. The case is a fairly sporty, though not overly large, 40.8mm width and 46mm long, and bronze plated. Here too, glass is mineral, and lug-width is 20mm. It is rated to 50m. Inside is caliber F6S22.

The retro-future design is quite unconventional, and – love it or hate it – is Orient DNA through and through. Price for the retro-future camera would be around 530 USD.

So – there you have it – 2020 is on! We're looking forward to seeing these new models in the flesh… and particularly, to hold one of these new King Divers next to the original !...

Orient Watches and Motorsports

Many watch brands attempt to be associated with the fast-paced world of motorsports. This association makes perfect sense, as many enthusiasts are fans of both cars and watches; I personally often experience going to a car meet and come across a familiar face from watch collector groups, or vice versa.

Over the years, Orient too has dipped its toes in this world, particularly (but not exclusively) in cooperation with Subaru, releasing many motorsport-themed models. There is no way to cover all of these watches in one story, but today we'll be looking at quite a few of them and get a taste of the action.

It seems that Orient's initial interest in motorsports was not focused on Subaru cars. In the 2000's there were a few Orient models inspired by cars and drivers that had little to do with the Japanese car manufacturer.

There were, for instance, the Clubman models; we've already given these unique models plenty of coverage on the blog.

Later that decade, Orient began toying around with the concept of retro-future watch designs. These watches were produced in series inspired by different types of items – and those included cars and motorcycles (alongside cameras, and later - guitars and record players).

And there was also the Gronholm limited edition. Marcus Gronholm was a famed World Rally Championship driver (and quite a character). Orient released a special piece, ref. WV0111DB, to commemorate Marcus and BP Ford World Rally Team winning the 2007 WRC Manufacturers Championship. The dial was of course blue, like the BP Ford Team color, and the overall design was meant to reflect the design of the car. Not surprisingly, it was limited to 2007 units… The watch itself was released in 2008.

                     

Orient and Subaru

After Gronholm's retirement from WRC Orient switched its interest from Ford to the Japanese domestic car manufacturer, Subaru (which, a little like Orient, produces in much smaller quantities than most local brands – but has very loyal supporters).

In 2009, Orient announced it has become a supporter and sponsor of Subaru STI (Subaru Technica International), a team that was participating in the "Nurburgring 24 Hours Race". Subaru finished 5^th in class that year. Later in 2009, Orient released for the first time a watch, one of the models in its sporty "World Stage" collection, in association with Subaru STI – although, this was purely a marketing thing and the watch did not actually carry any visible reference to Subaru.

Between 2010 – 2012, Orient continued to expand its World Stage line-up with more models, this time including some references that were properly Subaru-branded, for instance the elegant and cleanly designed WV0521ER, or sporty quartz chronographs, such as WV0201TT.

Orient also continued to use its ties to Subaru to promote its sporty models, even ones that did not bear the Subaru or STI logos, such as can be seen below in the front page of a 2012 catalog adorned with the then-new Subaru BRZ (in its hard-core GT300 guise).

In 2013, Orient launched a new motorsport-inspired collection: "Speedtech". The initial line-up included a couple of automatic semi-skeleton options (ref. WV0011DA / WV0021DA); a couple of standard quartz chronographs (WV0011TZ and WV0021TZ); and most interestingly, the ERS model.

ERS or Energy Recovery System, is a term used in the automotive industry to describe a system which stores a vehicle's kinetic energy as it is braking, and makes the energy available to boost acceleration later on – a technology which obviously has many uses in motorsports, and is indeed employed by F1 cars and some other types of race-cars. Orient, rather cleverly, had adopted the term ERS to name the kinetic member of the Speedtech collection, ref. WV0011KT / WV0021KT.

Orient did not often employ kinetic mechanisms (i.e. quartz movements where power is generated by an oscillating rotor like in an automatic movement). In the case of the ERS, the movement was borrowed from Seiko, and the result is indeed very similar to the rather cool Seiko Arctura Chronograph. Orient again highlighted the link between this model and the Subaru GT300 – and it really did not matter so much that Subaru never actually used ERS in that model (nor did any Subaru model, AFAIK)…

It was not all sports and burning rubber though, and in 2013 Orient also released a couple of watches as far removed from the Speedtech models as can be: the super-elegant, manual winding Orient Star references WZ0031DD and WZ0041DD, commemorating Subaru's 55^th anniversary.

Orient continued to release more Speedtech and Subaru STI-themed watches from time to time, and we cannot cover all of those in one blog post. So we'll conclude by focusing on one particular esteemed Orient moniker that received the "STI treatment": the M-Force.

In 2013, having claimed class win at the Nurburgring 24 hour race in 2011-2012, Orient released a special edition of its lefty M-Force, with an STI-branded dial aptly clad in Carbon, as ref. WV0131EL.

Orient continued in this path, releasing the M-Force ref. WV0171EL with an STI team-blue dial in 2014, and again with a carbon dial ref. WV0211EL in 2015. Curiously enough, in 2016 it did not release an Orient branded STI model; instead it built an M-Force variant that was branded as Subaru – not mentioning Orient on the outside at all – and which was actually being sold as Subaru merchandize.

Then, the Orient-Subaru relationship faded away and all Subaru-branded Orients went out of production. Currently Orient does not sponsor motorsport activities, and it seems the brand feels more at home associating with diving, outdoors and other personal sports activities. Still – this important chapter in its history, with a rich legacy full of cool and interesting models, is not forgotten!

Watch photos were taken from Orient official catalogs and press releases. The photo of Marcus Gronholm is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0Unported license. The photo of the Orient-branded Subaru is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International license.

How It Started

A new year, in fact a new decade has just begun. Outside it's raining cats and dogs (maybe even cows, by the looks of it). This gets me in the mood for reminiscing, how it all started… my interest in Orient watches, that is.

Collecting watches is usually a hobby one picks up as a grown up, when fascination with mechanics (or history, or design, whatever it is that drives one into watches) is met with sufficient income. For me this hobby did not start with Orients… I must have had at least a dozen other watches before getting my first Orient, a vintage Chrono-ace.

It was actually much later that my renewed interest in the brand brought up distant childhood memories of my first real watch, even before the ubiquitous Casio calculator… yep, that was an Orient, given to me by my dad when I was around 10 years old or a little later – and if memory serves me right, it was his watch that he gave me once my wrist was large enough to accept.

Large wrist or not, it was a massive piece for a kid. I remember the heft of its steel case very well. While watches were quite small back then, compared to today's case sizes, to me it seemed big enough.

One other thing I remember well, is the lume. The thing had some serious lume on it. I'd stay up well after lights-out just to watch that Orient shine in the dark in blue and green (markers and hands were different shades). That image, in fact, must have burned deep into my mind, as it kept coming in dreams years after. Yes, it's true: I'd dream of watches. Weird, wonderful complicated ones with plenty of buttons and functions.

So it came to be that memories of my old Orient crossed paths with this new hobby. I like many other watch brands of course, but keep a special place for Orient.

And now, that it's not just a new year that is starting, but it's actually Orient's 70^th anniversary, I wonder: what new models will 2020 bring? I guess we'll have to wait and see! Stick around and keep following the blog, it will surely be interesting!