The Calendar Auto Orient

1964 was a busy year in Japan, with the Olympic Games taking place and all. And Orient, in particular, was working up a sweat: that same year the brand introduced its first diver's watch, the Olympia Calendar Diver; the completely bonkers Grand Prix 100; the Flash; and, still in the same year, its first automatic dive watch, the Calendar Auto Orient.

The watch was still part of the Olympia lineage, and used caliber LCW, a variant of the Olympia family's L-type movement. The specific movement inside the diver was renamed caliber 670, possibly to differentiate it from the elaborately bejeweled "676" LCW inside the Grand Prix 64, and you will see publications referring to it by either name.

The Calendar Auto Orient was also sometimes referred to as Calendar Auto Diver. Peculiarly it had acquired an additional nickname: "19 Diver" or "21 Diver", depending on its jewel count, since that was the writing on the dial.

The model was relatively short-lived, as it was released toward the end of the life of the Olympia line and the L-type movement. It was probably only produced until 1965. During that time a number of versions were made, having either a white/silver or a black dial, a metallic or black bezel, and a few variations of the markers and hands.

Recently, I have added a lovely sample of this model to my collection: a 19-jewel Calendar Auto Orient, featuring a silver dial and metallic bezel, in fine cosmetic condition and excellent working order.

It is worth mentioning that while I sometimes buy such pieces from private sellers, this one came from a respectable store in Japan. They took their time cleaning and servicing the watch, and it shows: the thing winds smoothly, keeps ticking an entire day after I put it down (not common with old movements), and is accurate within a few seconds per day.

Some numbers: the watch case is approximately 39mm wide, excluding the crown, but visually it measures 40mm due to the overhanging bezel. Like many of Orient's vintage divers, it is a perfectly wearable size by modern standards. Lug to Lug length dimension is 47mm, and thickness is about 13mm – of which, nearly a mm can be attributed to the plexiglass extending above the height of the bezel. By the way, I'm always a bit cautious when measuring the thickness of a watch with a tall acrylic crystal, not wanting to scratch it, hence the "about"…

The lume in the hands and markers is obviously no longer luminous, but it has by now taken on a lovely vintage hue. I do hope no one in a sound mind would ever think of repainting such hands! This color just looks so good against the silvery dial.

The bezel rotates smoothly in both directions, without clicks. It is easy enough to turn but offers sufficient resistance to any accidental movement.

Turn the watch around to examine the rather interesting case back. First, you'll note the flying fish engraved in the center, a symbol of this watch, and its reference: T-19735A. The large text above – Olympia Calendar – also reveals its family origins.

The bracelet pictured is not original, but it is "period appropriate", its end-links fit the case, and it arrived just perfectly sized to my wrist, so I could not complain…

What else is there to say about this watch? It's a cool vintage piece with modern wearability (except that I'd keep it away from water), it works well and quite simply looks fantastic! These early divers are a bit more expensive than most vintage Orients, but considering the historical importance combined with everyday practicality, this is not such a bad deal! Calendar Auto Orients are not very rare, as long as you're not fixated on any one particular version. But finding one in good condition takes a bit of patience. Which, again, is worth it!

Orient AC0F European Collection

Orient's AC0F models have been around since 2019. A few variations were added in later years, but the original design – known in some markets as the "Symphony III" and part of the brand's contemporary collection – remained largely unchanged. This means sticking with classic dress-watch color schemes, like black, blue, and white dials, with gold-colored case versions as well.

Now, Orient introduces a collection of five new AC0F references, exclusive to the European market. Not surprisingly, these come in a selection of trendy dial colors, suitable to consumer preferences in 2025.

The new references include: RA-AC0F13E (Green dial), RA-AC0F14L (Blue), RA-AC0F15R (Red), RA-AC0F16S (Ivory), and RA-AC0F17Y (Brown).

The technical specifications are the same as older references of this model. The watch features Orient's automatic caliber F6722, which displays the time and date, and also offers hand-winding and second-hand hacking capabilities.

The case is 41.6mm wide, 11.7mm thick, and 49mm lug to lug. Lug width is 22mm. The watches offer 50m of water resistance, feature mineral glass, and come with a brown leather strap – for all dial colors. The price is listed as 259.99 GBP (let's call it 260 shall we).

Having seen these in person, I can testify that, as with most Orient watches, the colors are really deep and vibrant, and the watches are lovely – a decent alternative to the Bambino for anyone looking for something a bit sharper and less "classic".

Orient's Use of Silicon in Watchmaking

Silicon is not new to watchmaking anymore. Brands have been experimenting with it for nearly two decades, mainly in the heart of the movement: the escapement. Some use it to achieve higher accuracy, others to improve long-term reliability. Orient entered the field in 2021, introducing silicon parts into its new F8 family of movements.

Silicon can be applied in different ways. Perhaps the most demanding is the hairspring, where silicon replaces traditional alloy and greatly improves resistance to magnetism. This has allowed some watchmakers to offer chronometer-certified models, emphasizing precision as their headline achievement. But producing a silicon hairspring is technically complex and costly, and the benefits mostly target accuracy.

Another path is the escape wheel. Here, silicon’s light weight reduces inertia, and its smooth surfaces lower friction. The result is greater efficiency and stability, helping the watch run longer between windings while also reducing wear. Escape wheels are less challenging to produce than hairsprings but still require precise manufacturing and surface treatment to avoid brittleness. Their advantage lies less in chronometer scores and more in resilience and convenience.

Orient chose this latter approach. Using Epson’s micro-engineering expertise, it designed and treated a silicon escape wheel robust enough for daily use. The outcome was the F8 family, first seen in skeletonized Orient Star models of 2021. Thanks to the lighter and more efficient escapement, these calibers achieved a 70-hour power reserve, a notable leap from the 40–50 hours typical of earlier families. That makes them “weekend proof”: left aside on Friday, still ticking on Monday.

Different watchmakers pursue different goals. In some places, silicon is all about accuracy and COSC certificates. In others, it is used to bolster tool-watch toughness, even if power reserves remain conventional. Orient’s approach is distinctive in that it delivers both durability and a clear performance upgrade in running time, all at prices well below those usually associated with silicon parts.

The F8 family today includes several calibers, each with its own functions:

·         Cal. F8B61, F8B62, and F8B63 (reference prefix AZ) are variations of a hand-winding 22 jewel skeleton movement, having a 70-hour power reserve. They differ in the color of certain visible elements.

·         Cal. F8F64 (prefix BZ) is an automatic 24 jewel skeleton movement, offering 60 hours of power reserve.

·         Cal. F8N64 (prefix BX) is an automatic 24 jewel time and date movement, offering 60 hours of power reserve.

·         Cal. F8A62 (prefix BW) is a hand-winding 20 jewel time and moonphase movement, offering 70 hours of power reserve.

All F8 movements listed include a power-reserve indicator, and are accurate within -5/+15 seconds per day.

Orient's use of F8 calibers is constantly expanding. At the moment, about 14 Orient Star references use this silicon-equipped movement, representing some of the brand's topmost (and most expensive) products.

In the design of all current models, Orient makes the effort to ensure the novelty of the blue silicon wheel is visible. The skeleton, for instance, provides a direct view of this component from the front. With the hand-winding moonphase watch, recently reviewed on the blog, a little cut-out was made in the bridge of the movement to allow a view from the back.

For now, silicon is limited to these flagship movements. The vast majority of the brand's watches, including most Orient Stars, still use the F6 and F7 movements, which rely on metal escape wheels. Whether silicon will eventually find its way into these movements (or their new replacements) or F8 becomes a more common caliber among lower-end models, at least within Orient Star, remains an open question. Other makers in Japan already offer 70-hour calibers in more accessible ranges, and if Orient follows suit, it could bring the same long power reserve and improved stability to a much larger audience.

In the meanwhile, the F8 remains at the forefront of Orient's watchmaking, mixing a bit of modern tech into the works of this fairly traditional brand.

 

Photos were taken from Orient publications and ads

Orient Star M45 F8 Moon Phase Hand Winding Watch Review

Orient has been running its line of moonphase watches since 2017, making it one of the brand's more unique offerings. Being the only major Japanese brand offering a mechanical moonphase watch, maintaining an accessible price tag, has earned Orient prestige and admiration.

The last time I did a hands-on review of an Orient moonphase piece was back in 2019, and that was one of the earlier models, which used caliber F7X62. The generation that followed, in 2021, made use of a new movement – cal. F7M63 – which extended the power reserve from 40 to 50 hours.

Earlier this month, Orient announced its latest moonphase movement, this time part of the F8 family of calibers that use the brand's own silicon escape wheel. The new caliber F8A62 now extends the power reserve to 70 hours, and – surprisingly – is a minimalist hand-winding only, no second-hand movement.

I was happy to receive a sample of the non-limited version of this new watch, Orient Star reference RE-BW0004S, for review, courtesy of the team at Orient Europe.

 

How It Looks

This might just be one of Orient's most elegant releases in recent memory. Hour and Minute hands, power reserve, moon. No date. No text on the dial besides the logo. Not even running seconds. Simple, but far from plain.

The immediate appearance of the watch is so clean, one might be forgiven for thinking this is the product of some Swiss brand or other. So much so that when I met the Orient product manager I said "it's funny none of us is wearing an Orient now" – whereas he was in fact wearing this watch!

The dial bears none of the leftfield quirks Orient often loves to add – like an open heart apertures, complex textures or gradient colors. While such elements often make for fun watches, the brand clearly aimed for something very different here.

It takes a moment to realize how different a watch looks with no running seconds. It makes the dial look more static, but at the same time it also helps one admire little details, like when observing a still photo. And it fits the purpose of a dress watch suitable for a gentleman, one who is not in a hurry to go anywhere. You wear this watch when you meet your client for a two-hour lunch, not a 15-minute Zoom call.

The hour and minute hands are leaf shaped, and well sized – with the tip of the hour hand reaching just a tad short of the hour markers, and the minute hand touching the minute track precisely. The hands are colored a lovely blue, and while most likely not heat-blued (I'm happy to stand corrected here!) they feature the same transition from nearly black to vivid blue in direct light.

The Roman hour markers are particularly thin – I think thinner than in any previous model, although I have obviously not been able to measure all of them. This thinness enhances the clean look of the dial, working well with the overall design.

The power-reserve indicator is of the understated kind, a simple pointer moving between two points – no numbers or framing needed. It too has the same blue color as the minute and hour hands.

The star of show, of course is the moon. Here it is made out of a piece of silvery mother-of-pearl, shining against the dark-blue background. It's a pretty thing. And while perhaps seeming unnecessary, I think the round frame that encircles the would-be track of the moon is a wise aesthetic choice – yes, it takes a bite off the 6 o'clock marker, but this circle within a circle also adds visual depth to an otherwise flat display.

It's not all dial of course (though it mostly is). The case of the watch is relatively simple but well-made. With a slightly rounded profile and neatly polished on all sides, it matches the style of the dial. To be honest, while I appreciate Orient's "contemporary" cases and how their sharpness works well for sportier watches, I feel the moonphase concept works better with the classic case.

All in all, I consider the design of this watch a complete success. And having seen the limited edition black-gradient-dial version, I think this "white" (metallic, really) dial wins. The black one might be sexier with its stealthy looks, but the white is truly the right choice for this sort of timepiece.

 

How It Wears

Let's start with dimensions. The case of the hand-wound moonphase is 39.5mm wide without the crown, 46.7mm lug to lug, and 11.9mm thick. This is considerably smaller than the "M45 F7 Moon Phase" – 1.5mm narrower, 2.3mm shorter and almost 2mm thinner – bringing it closer to classic dress-watch proportions.

It's still not "easily hide under the cuff" small – it's almost there but not quite. Then again, it is such a pretty thing, why hide it?

Still, the modest dimensions ensure a versatile case that should make the watch quite comfortable, and certainly wearable for most wrist sizes. Weighing just 79g, it is also light, adding to the comfort.

The black cordovan leather strap that comes with the watch is of decent quality, not too thin, not too thick. It feels a little stiff at first, but appears to be softening rather quickly. Note that the JDM version comes with a genuine crocodile strap. Anyway, with its 20mm lug width, finding a different strap would be easy; just stick with black please! That is how it's meant to be worn…

Note that as this watch does not self-wind, there's no need to wear it particularly tightly. While wearing a mechanical watch more loosely can sometimes make the automatic winding rotor less efficient, this has zero impact when discussing pure manual winding.

The watch is equipped with Orient Star's deployment buckle, which is well made and adds to the wearability.

In terms of everyday usability, this is like most dress watches: treat it gently, as this type of highly polished case makes scratches really upsetting. And keep in mind the mere 30-meter water resistance, so just don't get it wet.

 

How It Functions

One of the most immediate impressions one gets from this watch, is how smooth and quiet its operation is. With no running seconds, the thing is so quiet you can safely wear it on a recon mission behind enemy lines. Not that you should wear a dress watch for recon missions, unless you're James Bond.

Winding is also super smooth, as is setting the time. You just watch the power reserve needle move or the hands go round; again, with no second hand to start and stop, the whole experience is extremely laid-back.

Without running seconds, you also pay less attention to actual accuracy. The model's specifications indicate a deviation of -5/+15 seconds per day, and given Orient's reputation, I assume the watch keeps time as promised. During my testing, it did well while being worn but went a little slow when kept an entire day resting crown-side up.

It's worth mentioning the importance of the power-reserve indicator in a hand-winding watch like this. Besides serving as a decorative element, it is even more useful than in most Orient watches, considering the watch will not wind automatically.

Legibility is good for a no-lume watch. The hands contrast well against the dial, and both hands and dial reflect just enough light to keep visibility in darker conditions – not total darkness of course. The front sapphire uses Orient's excellent anti-reflection coating, so that in itself it hardly glares, further adding to legibility.

Setting the moon phase is done using the inset button at 4. Obviously, you would need some sharp object to push it, but you would also not want to use anything that might scratch the case by accident. I used the tip of a dried-out roller pen; it would have been ideal if Orient actually bundled the watch with some kind of proper instrument, like a stylus. Yes, you'd probably lose it after a while, but at least it will get you started.

Orient advises not to change the moon phase between 9 and 3. Since there's no real way of knowing whether the watch shows AM or PM, this should be taken as referring to both options. Simply, don't use the push button when the hour hand is in the top half of the dial.

Watching the movement through the back is cool, by the way – it's been a long time since Orient has given us a manual winding watch with an exhibition case back! In fact the only other example I've come across is this Royal Orient from about 17 years ago. There is also the 60^th anniversary edition, but that one does not have a see-thru back.

 

Bottom Line

The M45 hand-winding moonphase watch is very hard to find flaws in. Orient clearly aimed for no-nonsense elegance, leaving out any hint of the brand's familiar oddities. And it has achieved its goal.

This Orient Star isn't for everyone. If you are one of many who need their watch to show the date, or find life without running seconds hard, then look elsewhere – and that's fine. You might find what you're looking for among Orient's other moonphase models.

However, if this style of watch speaks to you, then you might have just found your perfect match. Yes, elegance comes at a price, and at over $2,500 USD, this is considerably more costly than other Orient Star moonphase watches due to the F8 movement. That's still less than what a similar watch from a more prestigious – though not necessarily higher quality – manufacturer would cost you.

The blog would like to thank Orient – Epson Europe for providing us this watch for review.

Orient Star Releases – September 2025

These are old news by now – almost a week old! I usually post about new releases from Orient as soon as they are announced, however at that time I had my breath taken away (figuratively, as well as literally) climbing some mountains in Norway, so this had to wait.

Okay, enough with apologies, let's see what's new!

 

M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding

First up is the new M45 hand-winding moon phase. The name's a mouthful – why say Mechanical when hand-winding makes it obvious? But naming aside, this thing is pretty cool – a clean and (relatively) lean dress watch with just hour and minute hands – no seconds – and the Moonphase. And Power Reserve, of course...

Case dimensions are 39.5mm wide, 46.7mm lug to lug, and 11.9mm thick. Not particularly small, as dress watches go, but fairly normal for a Moonphase. Sapphire crystal both front and back provide a view of the lovely dial as well as the nicely decorated movement in the back. Lug width is 20mm and water resistance is 30m.

The movement here is a new derivative of the F8 family – caliber F8A62. It provides 70 hours of power reserve and -5/+15 seconds per day accuracy. The decorative disc here features a mother-of-pearl moon.

At this time, Orient presented two dial versions. A white dial appears in reference RE-BW0004S, or JDM model RK-BW0001S. A special grey-black gradient dial appears in limited editions, RE-BW0005N (140 units), RK-BW0002N (100 units, prestige shop model), and RK-BW0003N (20 units, online shop model).

Global models are supplied with cordovan leather straps, while JDM models generally use Crocodile leather straps – except for the prestige-shop model, which is provided with both types of straps. Prices for this beauty are generally around 3000 USD, depending on the exact reference.

                                      

M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase

For avoidance of doubt – this mechanical Moonphase is the automatic. These are not exactly new models, and as far as I could tell, the only difference between the new references and the older version is the redesigned moon disc, basically showing different stars.

The caliber also changed, from F7M62 to F7M42 – and I suppose the change is simply an indication of the different disc, as there do not seem to be any other differences in the specifications or appearance. Anyway, it's a nice bunch of watches and a rare occasion when a new model does not cost more than its predecessor, so why not?

Three dial versions are presented. The white dial is reference RE-BT0005S (JDM RK-BT0001S), provided with a steel bracelet and leather strap. The navy blue dial is ref. RE-BT0006L, or JDM RK-BT0002L. The global version comes with both steel bracelet and leather strap, the JDM one – only the bracelet.

In addition, there is the limited edition light-blue dial. Reference RE-BT0007L is limited to 190 units. JDM RK-BT0003L is limited to 270 units, and RK-BT0004L is limited to only 30 units available on Orient's online store. Light blue versions are all provided with both bracelet and leather strap.

Now, the big question remains: Come on Orient, all these moon-phase watches released, and not a single word about the blood moon lunar eclipse? Social media team, that was supposed to be your day...

 

M34 F7 Semi-Skeleton

This one is another variation of an existing collection. The M34 F7 family of semi-skeletons consisted of models with elaborate mother-of-pearl dials; the new release is a simpler execution of what is essentially the same watch, with the sharp "contemporary" case and F7F44 movement, just having a more minimalist dial.

Reference RE-BY0010L (JDM RK-BY0010L) features a blue sunburst dial, while ref. RE-BY0011S (RK-BY0011S) has a silvery-white dial. As the reference numbers reveal, both global and Japan models are identical. They are not limited production, and both are supplied with the steel bracelet.

Prices for the new versions are around 5-10% lower than the MOP models.

 

Orient Brazil Roundup #2

Last year I posted a round-up of watches released by Orient of Brazil, so I thought: why not make this a habit? These South American people make some nice models. So here goes Brazil Roundup #2: Return of the Big Watch! Orient Brazil have been known for producing some seriously hefty wrist-beasts, and while some of the watches below are quite normally-sized, lovers of generously sized cases are not going to be disappointed.

 

Divers

Actually, why not get this one out of our way right now. It's another one the brand's famed 300m divers, the sort that Orient Japan seems to have deserted in recent years…

Yes, the alpha-male of the pack measures 48.4mm across its case, with a big heavy-looking steel bracelet to match. You can get it with either a black dial, blue or green. I like the blue, which gives it a slightly lighter impression.

As watches go, this does not make a very subtle statement. With its mineral glass and rough lines it is unrefined, but at under 400 USD, why wouldn't it be? It will not doubt get the job done.

If you are looking for a bit more finesse, and willing to settle for 200m of water resistance, here is a nice option. Measuring "only" 44mm in width, and featuring a very Orient-ish dial with an open heart, power reserve, and 24 hour sub-dial, this one costs roughly 50% more than the aforementioned monster. But it does come with a sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel, and you can get it in blue, black, green and grey.

Alternatively, positioned somewhere in between in terms of price and features, is this blackened 200m tri-star diver, which you can also get in non-plated steel, but why would you? It is only 43.5mm wide, but it compensates for its tiny size with its bold orange highlights and textured dial.

 

Tristar Models

Orient tri-star watches are generally a good VFM deal, offering attractive designs with reliable automatic movements and decent quality, and usually costing less than the diver above. The three examples below are well under 300 USD.

Here, for instance, is a properly good looking watch, combining some classic pilot details with modern touches. Reasonably sized for a sports watch at 42mm, it's equipped with sapphire crystal and a stylish leather strap. The brand offers some other pilot-watches with different dial designs, but I like the clean contemporary look of this one.

Or take the next one: a solid, versatile design for daily wear in a convenient 40mm case (yes, you'll notice every model on this blog post is smaller than the one before…). Like the pilot one it's resistant to 100m and has sapphire crystal, has the day and date, and generally everything you'll want from a watch at this price. This model comes with either a white or beige dial.

The last tristar for today (although there's plenty more from the brand) is a little different. Case size is 42mm, water resistance only 50m, crystal is mineral; and if I am not mistaken, Orient Brazil references starting with NH indicate the use of Seiko movements, probably NH36 in this case.

In fact, it remind me very much of a Seiko Recraft I used to own, also having a very three-dimensional green dial with gold colored markers (that one used 7S26, the predecessor of the NH36).

 

Quartz

Wrapping up today's list is one for those who favor the accuracy of quartz movements – particularly the convenience of solar-powered one. For under 200 USD you can get this cool, vintage-inspired chronograph.

Yes, it is also mineral crystal, and only 50m water resistant, and I believe the bracelet is very basic. But still, it looks good, and I'm sure would be very satisfactory after swapping the stock bracelet for a nice, sporty leather band.

There's plenty more watches from Orient Brazil, these are only a few items I liked. Follow the blog for more from this faraway but never forgotten branch of the brand…

 

All pictures are taken from the Orient Brazil website and advertisements