On
today's post I'm going to get a bit more controversial than usual. That's
because we're going to touch on the sensitive subject of Homage Watches.
Homage, as in "a watch that is not a fake or a replica, but bears a
significant resemblance to one particular (and usually very easily
recognizable) model designed by some other brand".
Some
brands focus almost entirely on homage watches; these are controversial brands
by nature, usually getting the cold shoulder from regular watch snobs while
appealing to people looking to "get the looks of the original, for
less". However when it comes to manufacturers that are known for having
sufficient creativity in-house, like Orient, things take on a different
perspective.
Today
I'll look at three typical examples, one of which is a current model, and the
other two are no longer in production. Photos below are all from catalogs and
ads; I actually haven't owned any of the homage models – or the originals, for
that matter…
Everybody
Wants To Be a Little Rolex
…and
so, obviously, did Orient, on numerous occasions. Here, for instance, is one of
their well-known homage creations: the "President", day-date, in all
its two-toned glory. One of Rolex iconic watches, its design had been borrowed
by many brands – some fairly respectable (the Bulova "Super Seville"
springs to mind).
Don't
worry about the difference in colors. Both Orients and Rolexes appeared in
every possible combination of steel and gold, on case, bracelet and dial.
In the
case of the President, the similarity between brands' offerings was great and
stood out from a mile away. As nice as the basic design was, there is no doubt
people were looking to buy the Orient for its "presidential" looks
rather than any particular qualities it may have possessed. Honestly in most
ads it was simply advertised as "Orient President" or "Orient
Day Date", its true model reference no. quickly forgotten.
Even
More Rolex
Yep.
This time, the Explorer II is the star, and this is actually my favorite Rolex
watch (which makes the Orient variant very appealing to me as well).
Orient
actually made this GMT watch, here shown in ref. WZ0011FE, in a number of
colors and dial versions, most of them quite different from the Rolex original.
The model pictured too, while mostly resembling the original "Steve McQueen"
Explorer II, had some features changed, so that while being a clear homage – it
is much less of a copycat design.
Now,
How About Some IWC?
The
new Orient Star Heritage Gothic is very classy family of watches, largely influenced
by design of the respectable IWC Portuguese.
The
dial layout is similar to the Portuguese chronograph, while functionally this
is more similar to IWC's power reserve version. To Orient's credit it must be
noted that the Portuguese power reserve layout is horizontal (not vertical as
in the Gothic), and that Orient managed to avoid cutting into the 6 and 12
hours markers, which many people would appreciate.
So
What's The Verdict
Well,
this is not a trial so there's no verdict. Just an opinion. I admit that I'd
normally shy away from models that are too boldly a homage to another brand's
design, and when a watch company has so many original designs to offer – I'll
choose those over homages, any day.
I'll
make an exception in the case of the Explorer II/WZ0011FE, because it is a
design no longer in use by Rolex (and was not in use at the time of the Orient
version production) and to be honest, it is too nice to just leave it to fade
away into history. Some designs simply
deserve to remain alive, if not in the hands of their original creator then by
someone else.
As
for the Heritage Gothic, I'm still deliberating. Is it too similar to the IWC?
Has its design been sufficiently differentiated, or given some "Orient
Flavor"? Should we even care, as long as it is clearly not faking it and
the end result is an attractive, well made watch? What do you think?
Even GS has done a very similar homage to the Explorer 2 (SBGM001)
ReplyDeletehttps://forums.watchuseek.com/f2/rolex-explorer-ii-16570-vs-grand-seiko-gmt-sbgm001-4548337.html
True, although the GS design is even further removed from the original, with dial, markers and hands quite different.
DeleteHi..what's the different between CEV0J002C & SEV0J002C? thanks..
ReplyDeleteHi! there shouldn't be any real difference, just different market annotations.
Deletehi, i am looking after an explorient, the ice cold blue dial version, do you know the reference number? i could find find for every thing even yellow but not this one
ReplyDeleteHi! You might be referring to ref. WZ0261ER - it is beautiful, but note it is 35mm.
Deletethanks for your answer, unfortunately it s not. it s (his model
Deletehttps://www.instagram.com/p/CLWZMoUL4Xy/
@34mm, indices a tad different and shade of blue lighter, do you know it?
or this one in pair
Deletehttps://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/closedsearch/closedsearch/orient%20star%2021/2084211535/
Hard to pinpoint. It's definitely a PF-series model, but I could not find the exactly reference (there were many). I'm guessing that searching commerce sites like eBay and Yahoo Auctions for Orient pf would get you any pf's currently on sale. Maybe one like this would come up, at some point.
Deletewell i guess i ll have to open my eyes sometime and be patient 😂
Deletethanks for your blog, it helped me track some gorgeous orient pieces i didn t know before, including the blue orient star chrono!
The Heritage Gothic is not really an homage to anything, but rather a tribute to the first Orient Star model from 1951.
ReplyDeleteOne could argue that the original model borrowed heavily from the Swiss marine/deck watches- but the modern tribute is drawing entirely from the 1951 model's "heritage". Thus the name.
I can accept that this perhaps wasn't an intentional homage, but its design language, such as those numerals, hands, dial proportions, are just much more similar to the IWC than to the first Orient Star ... Again, just an opinion here.
Delete