Collecting By The Book

A few years ago, I posted a story titled "How do you collect?" in which I wrote about different types of watch collectors. I described myself as seeking diversity and wearability – aiming to make my collection as varied as possible while retaining practicality, even in the older watches.

Since then, I found that another theme has emerged within the broader habit. I acquired the 1999 Orient Watch Catalog, an unofficial publication that provided information on many of Orient's models and movements from the 1950s – 1960s, a golden era of hidden vintage gems.

This became like a sticker album for me – except for seeking watches instead of football player cards. I was not an avid collector of cards and stickers as a child – I was fairly impatient and probably ditched most albums after a few days, with not much more than those few cards you'd usually buy with the album itself… So I guess I'm making up for it now! It is a known fact that any unsolved childhood issue costs much more to solve as a grown-up; still, watches cost less than therapy – at least Orient ones do!

Collecting by the book proved to be plenty of fun, but it is also a decent way of going through the brand's history. I said I was not specifically aiming to be a collector of "models by years" as some do, but it is nonetheless a valuable part of the hobby, and the technical and historical information included in the book contributes to another side of my interest in Orient: gathering knowledge, on top of collecting watches.

The special Royal Orient designs caught my attention early on – I wrote about some of those, and pretty soon set to acquire a few. The Polka-Dot came first, and was recently accompanied by the Zodiac-Dial. Yes, the Zodiac is not identical to the book version, but – it's close enough! No need to be nitpicking – always remember the intention is to enjoy your hobby, not make it an obsession.

In some cases, it turned out I already had the right piece in my collection. Such were the cool Crosshair-Dial Olympia Calendar, or the Map-Dial World Diver. It was still nice to see pictures of my watches pop up in the book. In a way, it was also quite reassuring; I always make every effort to verify the authenticity of what I'm buying, but seeing the same piece in a publication like this is an additional seal of approval.

Many models in the book are also shown with their case backs, which provide an additional level of authentication. It's not always the most important thing: sometimes a case-back is lost or cannot be fitted back in during servicing of old watches. So you might come across a watch that's mostly authentic but has a slightly different back cover. Not a deal-breaker if it's an inexpensive item. But of course, when you see that you do have the proper one, that is ideal!

Mind you, I'm not really advocating this specific book, and it's not the easiest to find online, but as a concept, I find it quite a nice and effective way to curate vintage watches. There are some other interesting books out there, though not much easier to find, such as the Orient 60th Anniversary Commemorative Book.      

Navigating my Orient purchases using this book did not change my main guidelines. I still make sure I'm getting wearable watches, in terms of style as well as their actual condition. And the diversity of models and designs over the years covered is great, providing plenty of options – and I'm still not done with it! I wonder what I should get next…

Is Orient Star the New Royal Orient?

Royal Orient used to sit at the top of Orient’s range. It wasn’t a mass-market line, but it wasn’t necessarily understated either. Vintage Royal Orients often leaned into distinctive design, sometimes quite bold, and later models even included solid gold executions such as the WE0011EG. It was, in many ways, a space where Orient allowed itself to be more expressive – both technically and aesthetically.

When the line was discontinued around 2017, it left a gap. At the time, it wasn’t clear whether that gap would be filled, or simply remain part of the brand’s past.

Looking at Orient Star today, the question naturally comes up: has that gap already been filled – just under a different name?

Over the past few years, Orient Star has expanded significantly upward. Where it once focused mainly on mid-range mechanical watches, it now includes pieces that reach into territory once occupied by Royal Orient. Models based on the F8 calibers, hand-wound skeletons, and more recent special dial executions are clearly positioned above the classic Orient Star offerings. Prices for these watches are no longer confined to the traditional sub-$1,000 range that defined much of the line in the past, and in some cases reach into the low-to-mid four figures.

To put that into perspective, modern Royal Orient models from the 2010s were typically priced in roughly the $2,000–$4,000 range, with some pieces going higher depending on materials, complexity, and rarity. Even today, secondary market listings for these watches often fall within that same range. Meanwhile, recent high-end Orient Star releases – such as the meteorite dial F8 model – are priced around $3,500 at launch, well within the same range.

So while exact comparisons are complicated by inflation and changing market conditions, the overlap is hard to ignore. In practical terms, Orient Star has reached the same price territory that Royal Orient once occupied.

At the same time, there remains a noticeable internal spread within Orient Star itself. Entry-level models still follow the familiar formula – reliable, very well executed, but largely industrial in production, often well below $1,000. Higher-end pieces, particularly those using F8 movements, show a different level of attention. This is visible not only in the technical side – silicon escape wheels, longer power reserves – but also in finishing, materials, and overall presentation. It’s not a separate line, but it does feel like a different tier within the same name.

This shift is also visible in the design direction. In the recent meteorite model reviewed on the blog, the watch did not feel out of place alongside significantly more established high-end Japanese names, both in finishing and overall presence. That may be one of the clearest signals of where Orient Star is heading – not just improving internally, but repositioning itself externally.

This raises an interesting point about positioning. Orient, unlike some other Japanese manufacturers, does not seem to aim for the very high-end segment – the five-figure territory associated with brands like Grand Seiko or Credor. That leaves a ceiling that is relatively well-defined. Within that ceiling, the space once occupied by Royal Orient still exists – but it is now being approached from below, through an evolving Orient Star rather than a distinct top-tier label.

So would it make sense to revive the Royal Orient name?

On one hand, it could help clarify the structure. A separate label at the top would make it easier to distinguish between entry-level Orient Star models and the more refined pieces. It would also reconnect the brand with a part of its own history that included both high finishing and more expressive design.

On the other hand, there’s a case for what Orient is already doing. By keeping everything under the Orient Star umbrella, the brand avoids fragmentation and builds equity in a single name. Over time, the higher-end models may simply redefine what “Orient Star” means, stretching it upward rather than splitting it.

In that sense, the question may not be whether Orient Star should become Royal Orient – but whether it already has, in practice if not in name. For now, the technical and design progression is clearly there. The identity, perhaps, is still catching up. And those of us dreaming of a new Royal Orient will probably have to keep dreaming...

 

Orient Place Blog's 8th Anniversary

The eighth tick of the annual clock has just passed, and as we mark this anniversary, the perspective feels somewhat different from years past.

When I wrote the previous anniversary update in April 2025, I described a "plateau" – a steady, comfortable cruising altitude for our community. However, looking back at the last twelve months, it appears the engines did more than just stay warm; they caught fire. In our seventh year, I reported 183,000 page views, but as of April 2026, the blog has reached a staggering 646,000 views in one year. This 250% increase is a powerful validation of our shared mission. In an era where 15-second clips are said to be the only way to reach an audience, nearly two-thirds of a million people came here for long-form analysis and technical deep-dives into the nuances of horology (and some nice photos).

This explosive growth was supported by a year focused on substance over sheer volume. I published 21 stories this year – fewer than the previous cycle, but with a much higher resonance. The output was a carefully curated mix: three hands-on reviews of new watches, three vintage reviews including a fantastic guest contribution that highlighted our community’s depth, six stories on new releases, five technical deep-dives, and four editorial pieces.

While the Mako 40mm hands-on review continues to be the undisputed "Search King" of the blog, serving as a permanent fixture for enthusiasts, the true breakout stars, most read among articles published in the last 12 months, were the announcement of the Stretto line and the hands-onreview of the Orient Star M45 F8 Moonphase.

The review of that M45 F8 Moonphase provided one of the most insightful moments of the year. Shortly after spending time with it, I had the opportunity to compare it directly with a few moonphase models from prestigious Swiss brands. The result was enlightening; the Orient Star didn't just hold its own – it looked better. It felt more stylish, the dial work was more evocative, and the finishing quality was objectively on par with watches that come bundled with plenty of pedigree.

I could tell Orient Star is finding a confident voice that no longer needs to hide in the shadow of the Swiss Alps – while also narrowing the pricing gap between its top releases and those Swiss brands. This shift toward high-end craftsmanship was mirrored on social media, where the "Stars" clearly drive the passion of our visual community. The most-liked images of the year formed a very specific podium: the M42 Diver 1964 took the top spot, followed closely by the M45 F8 Moonphase and the M34 F8 Meteorite.

As we look toward the blog's ninth year, my challenge to Orient remains one of accessibility and "Trickle-Down Horology." We have seen the fine work being done with 70-hour power reserves and silicon balance wheels in the flagship Orient Star models, and it is now time for this technology to migrate. In the coming year, it would be great to see these 70-hour movements (60 would also be nice) start to appear in "non-star" models and for silicon escapements to move beyond the limited F8 editions.

The gap between the entry-level favorites and the elite M-Collection is widening, I believe Orient needs to bridge it. A certain gap is understandable and helps keep those who buy the basic models enjoy the halo effect of the more special models; too big a gap, though, and the effect diminishes.

Once again, I would like to thank all of you who read, follow, share and comment, here on the blog website or in social media. See you soon, with more stories, news and content coming up!

 

An Owner's Review of the Orient Tenbeat

About six years ago, I did a blog post on Orient's Tenbeat, the brand's rare and elusive high-beat model from 1970. In the years that passed since then, I know of three occasions when one such Tenbeat actually got auctioned for sale. One was ridiculously over-priced, another seemed not to be in working order, and the last one I only heard of after it was already closed.

And then, a few weeks ago, I was delighted to receive an email from a blog follower who had just acquired one of these rare beasts. Or rather, a part of it… it will all become clear shortly.

Anyway, the owner, Andreas was kind enough to share his review of the watch and some photos – revealing a case type that's different from the two shown in my original story. I am sure you will find his account of owning and wearing the Tenbeat as interesting and entertaining as I did, so I bring it to you in his own words.

My name is Andreas, and Mr. Orient invited me to share my first-hand experience of wearing an Orient Tenbeat, which I will gladly do. First of all, I must clarify that I only own 10,000 of the 36,000 beats per hour through timesharing. I think Pierre and I will rather settle on 100 and 360 days per year instead of 1/10s of a second. Pierre is the guy who spotted this beautiful timepiece we share. He searched much more thoroughly than I and found it listed as "10BEAT" instead of "TENBEAT" at JDirectItems Auctions in November 2025. That description was why no one else was even watching. Yet even with a ¥30,000 discount the minimum bid was ¥520,000 plus Japanese sales tax plus import sales tax – far more than my personal limit. I suggested time-sharing as a joke, but Pierre asked if I really would, and after some consideration I agreed.

So, how does it feel to wear such a rare watch? Great, I have to say! I like the idea that most likely I am the only person in the universe wearing a Tenbeat when it is night in Japan, where probably all the other owners of such a watch live. The case measures 36 millimeters in diameter and only 36 millimeters lug to lug. It’s about the size of the Orient Fineness from 1968, just one millimeter thicker. Thus it fits really comfortably. The band width is 19 millimeters with curved spring bars. This is due to the fact that the movement has diameter of 27.6 millimeters compared to the 25.6 millimeters of the Fineness’ Ultramatic caliber.

The high beat movement 9980 is equipped with 28 jewels, and they are not for decoration. There are combined settings for the escapement and the escapement wheel, for instance. The balance has an Incabloc shock protection system and a fine adjustment mechanism. The movement is not very decorative, but neither were Seiko's 6146 or Citizen's 7230 of that time. Speaking of those competitors – in 1970, Seiko had a share of 60% of Japanese watch manufacturing, Citizen still had 28%. Orient’s share was 9% – roughly a third of Citizen’s and not even a sixth of Seiko’s. I assume that also reflects the budgets of the respective development departments. At least I know Seiko had two – one at Daini Seikosha in Tokyo, and one at Suwa Seikosha in the Nagano prefecture. One should also consider that the high beat movements of many renowned Swiss manufacturers were based on rough movements manufactured by Adolph Schild SA. Orient developed and manufactured the caliber 9980 entirely in-house. It has this nice little pusher for setting the date at 2 o'clock to distinguish it from others.

Let’s have a look at the stainless steel case. Its brushed surface with its sunburst effect is a pure joy to me as a photographer. No strange reflections – I hate seeing my face distorted and half-covered by my camera reflected in the watch in my pictures. I like the curved outlines, not only at the sides but also at the cutouts for the bracelet. There are small cutouts for the crown and the pusher on the right side. Together with the acrylic crystal, the case is only 9 millimeters thick and has a screw-down back.

I love the sunburst silver dial and the rehaut. "ROMANES EVNT DOMVS!" (sic) – I usually don’t like Roman numerals on my watch faces. Among the baton indices there are fortunately only 3 of them at 6, 9, and 12. But I have to admit that in this case the Roman markers counterweight the large day and date window in a nice way. Ow, that large window- people who prefer no date watches will certainly hate this! But it is the most outstanding design feature of the watch. The day wheel is atop of the date wheel and has windows which allow the date to be displayed. It is really fascinating when the day and date change! The large window shuts and the date changes invisibly. The day of the week is displayed in abbreviated form in Japanese left of the date, and in full English below. The print is inverted for the Japanese and matches the black date wheel. The numbers on the latter are printed in silver, which makes them quite easy to read.

Taking a closer look reveals another unique design feature of the watch- the hands! Hands up who’s ever seen anything like those! I lack the words to describe them. Each has its own unique shape, and they all have a three-dimensional structure. And yes, no lume! I might have missed that back in the 1970s, but nowadays we have smartphones. And they have torchlights to illuminate the watch! Of course, the second hand displays the smoothest movement of all Orient watches.

The crown does not have a function in normal position. It has two click positions. In the first, the time can be set. Without a hacking function. I must also clarify that the watch does not have a quick setting for the day of the week. Setting the day of the week works in both directions, depending on whether you move the hands clockwise or counterclockwise. The date can be adjusted with the pusher at 2 o’clock. To wind the watch manually, the crown has to be pulled out to the second click position. So, this might not be the most user-friendly watch.

In summary, I can say that the Tenbeat is a typical dress watch of its time in terms of size. The design is very distinctive and the complete opposite of the design of King Seiko or Grand Seiko. Including the leather strap it weighs only 32 grams. What I love about this watch is that it is so photogenic, maybe the most photogenic watch I ever shot. But it will receive a full service before further use.

 

The blog would like to thank Andreas for sharing his experience. All photos are his, except the top one that is from a sale ad. Also, many thanks to both him and co-owner Pier for salvaging this piece from oblivion and bringing it to light!