Orient Place

Orient Place

Sunday 10 March 2024

Orient Mako 20th Anniversary Edition Contest + Discount Code

It's been a while since we've arranged a little something for Orient Place blog's followers. So, here is that "little something".


Last week I noticed a nice contest being run by WatchNation, a UK-based authorized retailer of Orient (and numerous other brands), who also ship internationally. WatchNation has apparently been granted exclusivity for selling the new Mako 20th Anniversary Edition in the UK.

Now, they announced the following contest: for every 10 pre-orders received for the Mako Anniversary Edition, they'd be giving away 1 Orient Bambino Watch to a lucky winner, to be selected at random from those 10 pre-orders. 


                           

This seems like a great opportunity to build a two-watch collection inexpensively, with just a bit of luck: Orient's entry-level automatic diver-style watch and dress watch are two fine items. Plus, Easter is coming, so they can also make a pretty cool gift.

I did not get a chance to make a purchase with WatchNation before, but from my brief conversation with them and online reviews, seems like a more than decent retailer, with an online and brick-and-mortar store as well.


What's more, following my conversation, WatchNation also offered an exclusive discount code for Orient Place followers! Use code OP15 at checkout for 15% off the Orient Mako 20th Anniversary.

Note, that the code is only applicable when purchasing the Mako 20th Anniversary, and both code and the contest expire on March 31, 2024. Also note that while WatchNation's exclusivity is in the UK, the competition and discount code apply worldwide.

If you decide to enter the competition, I'd be happy to hear back on your experience, how you feel about the Mako Anniversary Edition (when you receive it), and of course, if you won a Bambino!

  

Sunday 3 March 2024

The Chronoace and Caliber 42

In 1969 Orient ended the reign of caliber 49 and the "AAA" moniker that was associated with it, and introduced a new family of watches and movements. The "Chronoace" (also sometimes referred to as Chrono Ace) equipped with caliber 42 ushered in an era of upgraded case designs, materials and colors that would become characteristic of the brand in the 1970s.


The Movement

Caliber 42 movements were mostly exclusive to the Chronoace line, although some were used in certain other models. All caliber 42 variants were automatic with hand winding, and operated at 18,000 BPH. They all shared the main architecture and features, including the day and date discs and (with one exception) the date quick-set button at 2 o'clock.

The main members of the family were:

·         Calibers 42940, 42950, 42960, 42970 with 21, 23, 25 and 27 jewels, respectively, were the common variants used in most Chronoace models.

·         A particular variant of 42950 that did not have the quickset button – presumably to improve water resistance – used in the Orient King Diver "Depth Gauge".

·         Caliber 42925 and 42972 with 17 and 27 jewels, respectively – as far as I know, these were variants not used in "Chronoace" watches, instead running models like the early 1970s "Crystal".

·         Caliber 42990 with 33 jewels, which must have been highly exclusive as I've yet to see photos of one!


Caliber 42 continued the evolution in Orient's movement engineering. For instance, the introduction of a "fine movement" speed adjustment device, the shift to a "star wheel" type switching wheel, and the transition to a "two-story third wheel and pinion system" from the traditional "three-needle system" marked a significant step in improving the movement's efficiency and stability.


Orient Chronoace

Early Chronoace models continued in typical 1960s style of late AAA models. Such were the "College" models – so these too would soon be updated and receive smoother cases and more


Over the next few years, the Chronoace range exploded with new versions and designs, some which were already discussed on the blog, under various topics. The 1969 "Special" model, for instance, whose photo appears at the top of this article, still looks like it has taken just a small step beyond the College. Shortly afterwards, new designs appeared.

Chronoace models took on various case shapes – including oval, round, triangular, and all sorts of more complex designs. This was typical of the era, as the 1960s style morphed into the 1970s.


A significant part of that development happened in the materials department. Besides color taking a much more prominent place in dial design (a trend that already began in the late 1960s), Orient began experimenting with various new materials.

Pretty soon, Chronoace models appeared that made use of stone cases, non-scratch steel and other elements. Some Chronoace dials featured Jaguar Focus paint schemes, and later - Mexican Mother-of-Pearl.


Dive watches were an important segment of Orient's product range, and here too – caliber 42 and the Chronoace name were included.

A number of Chronoace King Diver models were presented between 1969 and 1971. Most had been variations on Orient's familiar internal bezel design. The obvious exception was the King Diver Depth Gauge, a unique watch that probably deserves a separate post.


Honestly, much more can be written about the Chronoace lineage; Indeed much has already been told of these watches in this blog, and probably more mentions will be added in the future. This post, however, should serve as a hub page for the Chronoace models.

 

The picture of the Chronoace Special that appears at the top of this post is copyright of the blog. Other pictures that appear in this post were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads. 

Sunday 18 February 2024

Three Generations of M-Force, Compared


The "M-Force" is currently Orient's longest-running product line, now spanning 27 years since the introduction of the first generation. During this time designs have changed and movements have evolved, but the "three M's DNA" remained as Orient has defined them: Mechanical, Massive, and Maverick.

Owning three different members of the M clan from three different periods, I thought a comparison would be interesting. What do the three have in common, how much do they differ, and which one – if that is at all a reasonable question to ask – is the best?


First, a quick reminder of what we're talking about here.

The oldest of the lot is the 1997 EX00 – really the earliest model among the EX## family of "first generation M-Force". This was also my first M-Force, bought in 2017. I first got it on a replacement strap (the one you'd see pictured in that old blog post); a few years though, I stumbled upon a seller offering an original bracelet, a very lucky coincidence as anyone trying to find a bracelet for an old watch would know.

The next one in the collection – though the more recent acquisition – is the 2014 model also known as the "Beast 2" or "Delta" version. The biggest of the lot, and with its red dial perhaps the boldest too.

The latest M-Force model, released in 2020 (with a number of variations on the same theme introduced later) has been with me for three years now. At first it did raise a few eyebrows with its bulky crown guard and the loss of the classic power reserve indicator, but it has since been accepted to the M-Force family.


Technically, an evolution is clear, mainly between the first gen and more recent iterations. The EX00 boasts the good old caliber 46G. It's a workhorse, but lacks hacking and manual winding. The Delta uses the 40N5A, while the 2020 model uses the more modern, but similarly specced, F6727 – both offering that coveted hand-winding/hacking feature set.

Model evolution also added more protection over the years. Newer models were designed with ISO standards in mind – for diving, shock resistance and magnetic resistance. The new watches sure feel more robust than the first generation.

So, considering the first "M" – "Mechanical" – newer probably is better. While basic reliability and tool-watch capabilities were built into the M-Force as early as the EX00, I'd definitely choose the newer models for when protection is needed. And the latest one, with its shrouded construction, sapphire crystal and big crown-guard, feels the most resilient of the lot.


"M" also stands for maverick design, which is Orient-speak for "quirky", and we all know how well Orient does quirky. In this sense, the first generation was perhaps the standout. With its unashamed two-tone case and bracelet, multicolor power-reserve gauge, elaborate hands, and wavy dial texture. It's as Orient as it gets.

The Delta and 2020 M-Force are definitely very bold, and have very recognizable designs – not looking like any run-of-the-mill dive watch. The Delta's appearance is, in my opinion, also very attractive. The 2020 models I wouldn't exactly call pretty – but perhaps they do embrace the "maverick" concept more strongly than the Delta.

While they each have something unique in their design, I still find the old EX00 to be the most special of the three, a true maverick.


How about comfort? Obviously, the EX00 is a featherweight compared to later models. It may have been considered relatively big back in the 1990s, emerging from an era of thin quartz watches. Nowadays, its 42mm titanium case seems weightless. It is as effortless a wearing experience as a sports watch can be.

The Delta and the 2020 models are beasts. The Delta is the biggest in all dimensions, and not surprisingly – also the heaviest. It is perfectly wearable (especially if some heft is your thing), but not a watch you'd call unnoticeable on the wrist. The 2020 is actually very reasonably sized for a tough dive watch, and particularly on the rubber band is quite comfortable.


So, how do I feel about each of these watches? Despite each having certain downsides, they are all very likeable.

The EX00 is a quirky, funky design. The Delta is big and bold, and makes you feel like Schwarzenegger for wearing it. The 2020 is the more sensible, tough yet comfortable, and still far from mainstream.

Looking back at my wearing habits of these three, I find that the Delta was often my go-to for a quick evening excursion, the EX00 was my preferred office wear, while the 2020 became a favorite companion for long journeys and hikes.

The M-Force family might not be as tightly defined a package as, say Bambino or Mako, so there are many differences between the various generations and versions, of which there are many more besides these three. But they do share a certain philosophy, which goes beyond the formal "Three M's" and I see it as "being unapologetically different".

 

Wednesday 14 February 2024

New Colors for Orient Models

As expected, Orient follows last week's announcement of new Orient Star watches with some new "Regular" Orient releases as well – although, these are all just new color versions of existing models. So, let's see what's new.


20th Anniversary Orient Mako

So, the 20th anniversary Mako won't be yellow after all… Orient decided to celebrate twenty years since the release of the first Mako diver differently.

The new reference RA-AA0822L (JDM ref. RA-AA0822L) features a gradient blue dial with a wave pattern, reminiscent of certain Seiko divers. The blue and black bezel is also black IP-plated, and the hands are gold-toned. The words "anniversary edition" are also printed on the dial, rather subtly in place of some of the minute markers near 4 o'clock.

Technically, the watch is identical to other current Mako references with the 41.8mm wide case. It will however cost some 20% more. Limited to 3,000 pieces (500 in Japan), it might be worth it if you're a Mako fan, like the color scheme, and love limited editions. Expected to be available in stores from April this year.

 

New Mako 40 References

The Mako 40 was previously only available in Japan in either black or white dial versions; and the global market's more lively colored variants were only available on leather straps. Now, Orient are introducing two color dial options, with steel bracelets, for the Japanese market.

Reference RN-AC0Q06V features a similar "lilac" (kind of soft, pink-purple shade) to last year's reference RA-AC0Q07V; The dial of ref. RN-AC0Q04L is referred to by Orient as "lavender", but it's actually lavender-blue, also known as periwinkle. It is a soft shade of violet-blue, and new to the collection.

Both new versions look really good against the steel case and bracelet, and both are limited to 200 pieces. Why has everything got to be limited nowadays, Orient? Anyway, these should be available to purchase early March.

 

Fresh Colors for the Contemporary Semi Skeleton

The Contemporary Semi-Skeleton collection might not be as popular as the Mako but it is definitely very uniquely Orient with its open-heart dial. While previously available references were fairly conservative, the new 2024 batch offers more vibrant colors.

·         Reference RA-AR0007S (JDM ref. RN-AR0007S) has a white dial, and gold colored case, bracelet, hands and hour markers.

·         RA-AR0008E (JDM RN-AR0008E) mixes a green dial and gold hands and markers.

·         RA-AR0009L (JDM RN-AR0009L) features a light blue dial.

·         RA-AR0010R (JDM RN-AR0010R) features a deep red dial.

These models, thankfully, are not limited. The all-gold version would cost around 380 USD; the other references would be close to 340 USD. All should be available to buy in March.