Orient Place

Orient Place

Wednesday, 4 February 2026

February 2026 Orient Star Releases


This year marks the 75th anniversary of Orient Star. Some pretty special announcements were expected, and indeed, Orient has just announced a bunch of interesting new models – many of which are limited editions. The following watches should be available in March.

 

M34 F8 Date Meteorite

A meteorite dial? Yes indeed! Orient are upping their game, nudging very cautiously at product categories that used to be reserved for the likes of Grand Seiko and The Citizen. Meteorite might not be as exclusive today as it was a decade ago, but it is still a precious material that offers a unique visual appeal while remaining very natural and understated (not sure if "down to earth" is the proper wording here…)


Indeed, the M34 F8 Date is a fine platform to host the brand's first ever meteorite dial. It is operated by the in-house modern automatic caliber F8N64, featuring a silicon escape wheel, 60 hours of power reserve, and +15/-5 seconds per day accuracy, housed in a sharp, finely finished 40mm case.

The list price for this watch, reference RE-BX0010A (RK-BX0010A in Japan), is € 3,250, considerably higher than the standard M34 F8 Date models, and also about 10% above the "meteor shower" edition – but then again, this is not an illustration of a meteor shower, this is the actual thing in the flesh. This model is limited to 255 pieces globally (actually more than the meteor shower).

 

M34 F8 Full Skeleton

This is a new member in the M34 F8 Contemporary Skeleton family, reference RE-AZ0105N (RE-AZ0105N), characterized by a blackened case and bracelet. The dial is grey, and the hands here are silver, as opposed to the blue hands of the previous references in this family.



As is often the case with skeletons, different finishing also imply matching colors on the movement itself as it is mostly visible, so the movement here is a "new" hand-winding caliber F8B65. It is essentially the same as other F8Bxx movements, having 70 hours of power reserve and +15/-5 seconds per day accuracy.

Pricing is € 3,240 (leaving the top of the list to the Meteorite, by a €10 margin). It is limited to 430 pieces.

 

M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition

Or, more accurately, the 2nd version of the 1st edition… anyway, this is a new limited edition of the M42 Diver 1964 re-issue, first released in 2021. The new model, reference RE-AU0503N (RK-AU0503N), features a gradient dial, with a blueish-grey center and darker tones toward the edges.


Technically, it is similar to the first 1st edition, having a 41mm case with a unidirectional bezel and 200m water resistance, and equipped with an automatic caliber F6N47 that offers 50 hours of power reserve and a more standard accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day.

The MSRP for this watch is €1,300, and 660 pieces will be available globally. And, what is even more exciting – the blog's already got its hands on one for an early review! Expect this story to be posted here very soon!

 

M34 F7 Small Seconds

Finally, a brand new model! And one that, at the sub-1K price range, is what I believe to be the most accessible Orient Star with the improved accuracy of +15/-5 seconds per day.


The new watch has dressy case dimensions of 39mm width, 45.7mm lug-to-lug, and 11.7mm thickness, complemented by an elegant style. It utilizes a new automatic movement, caliber F7H44, which features small seconds and a power-reserve indicator.

Design-wise, this looks like the replacement for the aging Orient Star Heritage Gothic, and a good replacement it if I might say – at least according to the image. Note that the new model does not display the date. Some people may wish that it would, but it's a sacrifice in the name of symmetry and elegance that I personally appreciate.

Orient presented three variants of the new M34 F7 Small Seconds. Reference RE-BS0001E (RK-BS0001E) has a green dial, RE-BS0002S (RK-BS0002S) features an ivory dial, and Ref. RE-BS0003N (RK-BS0003N), limited to 500 pieces, features a granulated, grey dial. The limited model is priced at €1,050 while the non-limited ones are around €950.

 

Contemporary Date

Not completely new but an updated design, we have a new version of the Contemporary Standard model, recently reviewed on the blog. The new releases differ from most Contemporary Standard references by its power-reserve gauge, here taking a subtle appearance unlike the metallic track applied to the previous models.

Is that a new trend? All new models announced feature similarly understated PR indications, possibly aiming to appeal to both fans of this feature and those who find it an unnecessary clutter on the dial.


In all other respects this is the same as previous Contemporary Standard watches. Case width is 38.5mm, lug to lug length is 46.9mm and thickness is 12.3mm. The movement is cal. F6N43, with a 50 hour reserve and +25/-15 seconds accuracy.

Three references are presented at this time: RE-AU0112V (RK-AU0112V) features a purple dial and steel bracelet; RE-AU0113Y (RK-AU0113Y) has a brown dial, and a matching leather strap; RE-AU0114E (RK-AU0114E) features a blue-green gradation dial and steel bracelet, and is limited to 1,200 piece worldwide.

The list price is €660 for the limited edition, and around €600 for the brown one.


Modern Skeleton

Last but not least, the Modern Skeleton is another familiar Orient Star that has undergone a design change, though not a complete makeover - the resemblance to older models is obvious.

While mechanically unchanged, the dial cutout is noticeably different, as is the small second hand. Other modifications are more subtle.


The case dimensions are still 41mm width, 49mm lug to lug, and 12mm thick. The movement is the familiar automatic caliber F6F44 with its 50 hours of power reserve.

Orient presented six references, none of which is limited: RE-AV0134E (RK-AV0134E) with a green dial, RE-AV0135L (RK-AV0135L) with a blue dial, RE-AV0136N (RK-AV0136N) with a grey dial, RE-AV0137S (RK-AV0137S) with a white dial, RE-AV0138V (no JDM reference) with a purple dial, and RE-AV0139Y (RK-AV0139Y) features a brown dial and is the only variant with a leather strap.


Pricing for the new model is about the same as previous Modern Skeletons.


Thursday, 8 January 2026

The Zodiac-Wheel Royal Orient



Exactly 3 years ago, I posted my review of the Polka-Dot Royal Orient, a beautiful rare timepiece, which was among Orient's finest products of the late 1950s. And now, somewhat surprisingly, comes along another member of that famed lineage – the Zodiac-Wheel Royal Orient.

As blog followers may have noticed, I do not tend to acquire multiple versions of what is, essentially, the same watch. There are just so many different models to choose from, why get a duplicate?



Well, that's the rationale, but to every rule there's an exception, and the whole idea of collecting old mechanical watches has little to do with logic anyway, so – here goes! I saw this lovely thing in excellent shape, and bought it.

Mechanically it is identical to that old dotted specimen. At its heart, a 19 jewel N-Type manual wind movement runs smoothly and – as far as I can judge – happily. It's a simple time-only movement where very little can go wrong, and indeed very little does.

On the outside, it uses the same gold-filled 36mm case, with the same lean, long lugs. The hands also appear to be identical to its sibling watch.


So, what's different?

The zodiac wheel is a pretty reasonable decoration for a watch dial. If you're searching for a set of 12 simple images to enhance a dial that already speaks in twelfths, look no further than the astrological signs. It might make more sense in a watch that actually includes a date and month complication, but to be honest that might be too much to ask for. Very few watches actually present a date-accurate zodiac.

The zodiac also seems to lend itself to designers in a fairly unrestricted manner: it seems you can start almost anywhere on the wheel (although I understand "Aries" is the more common starting point), and go different directions – historically, northern hemisphere wheels would go counter-clockwise, but since people got used to watches, you would see many diagrams where the signs are arranged clockwise.


I mean, look at the following image – the version that appears in the book is as legitimate as mine – apparently there were a few variations on the zodiac theme. Neither starts with Aries at the top; in fact, the one in the book starts with Capricorn, which kind of makes sense as that coincides with January, and continues clockwise. The wheel on my dial looks like it has Capricorn in the first position but mine actually goes counter-clockwise, and starts with Aquarius.

None of this matters, of course, unless you take astrology seriously (I don't, although for my grandma this was hard science). But it did force me to spend time on verifying the authenticity of the watch I purchased, making sure the dial was not tampered with in any way.


And the dial is absolutely fine! More than fine actually. The small details are lovely, and most of the decorations withstood the test of time very well.

Just like the other vintage Royal Orient, and like most old Orients, it's a sweet piece, ticking reliably and accurately, and still works great as a dress watch.


Sunday, 28 December 2025

Happy New Year, 2026!


It's that time of year when everyone does their recaps and "best of…" lists again, and the blog is no stranger to this old tradition. And in what has become my own little end-of-year ritual, the last post of the year would cover my completely subjective, 100% biased one-man vote for best Orient release of the year, as well as my favorite personal acquisitions.

While 2024 seemed to indicate a bit of a slowdown in creativity across the watchmaking industry, I felt 2025 did a little better. And as part of that slight upturn, Orient too introduced some nice new models. So, let's get these on the podium, shall we!

In 3rd place – again, based on nothing more than my personal taste – the solar Mako. I find the combination of the latest 40mm Mako design with a light-powered quartz movement very sensible. It's practical, looks good, and should appeal to many consumers who aren't necessarily attracted to mechanical watches.

Second place had to go to some member of the Stretto family or another, simply for being a brand-new model family. And from that family, I chose the sun and moon version as my favorite. Because I like this very-Orient design, and I believe it fits the Stretto's line quite well.

However, the best new Orient of the year had to go to the M45 F8 Moon Phase Hand Winding watch. It is such a clean, elegant, and unique piece! Its price puts it in near direct competition with moon-phase models from the likes of Tudor, Longines, and a few other Swiss brands – and surprisingly – or not – it has nothing to be ashamed of. And at least in terms of looks and finishing, I do not think I'd trade it for any of them.


My personal collection also grew this year. The first addition to the set was actually a new 2025 release. The new Contemporary Standard could not get onto the podium, as it was not really a new model but rather new color options for the existing model, but that did not make it any less worthy! I loved the green dial, and it proved to be an excellent daily wear.

Another purchase was a vintage watch, but one that's almost as practical and wearable as a new timepiece. The 1964 Calendar Auto diver is a true classic, and finding a well-maintained one was very rewarding.

The last acquisition of 2025, which will probably be the topic of an upcoming blog post, is a "zodiac dial" Royal Orient from the late 1950s. Dressy, classy, but also a little bit funky, it's a perfect example of Orient's top-of-the-line releases from that glamorous era.

Together, these three represent some of the brand's archetypal facets: a beater, a diver, a dress watch; modern and vintage; bold and subtle.


And what about 2026? Well, I'm pretty sure the trend of increased creativity will continue, and I'm expecting some good stuff to come!

Until then, I wish all the blog readers and followers, friends, and loved ones a happy new year! See you in 2026.


Sunday, 7 December 2025

Orient's Textured Dials


Textured dials have long been a hallmark of thoughtful watch design, one that goes beyond the basics. Texture can be subtle or flagrant, it can overpower the dial or take the backseat, but it always has an impact.

The appeal isn’t just aesthetic. Textures originated as a practical solution to glare, particularly in the mid-20th century, when both dress watches and field watches relied on matte or grained surfaces to enhance legibility. Over time, these finishes evolved toward more decorative expressions: stamped linen patterns in the 1960s, crisp radial brushing in the 1970s, and more elaborate machine-cut motifs once CNC tooling became widely available. Each era brought its own take on how a dial could play with light.


Traditional crafts also played a role. Guilloché and other machine-turned patterns – once reserved for high-end dress watches – demonstrated how texture could elevate a dial through pure geometry and light. Even when used sparingly, these classic techniques helped establish texture as a legitimate design element rather than just a technical necessity.

The modern resurgence of textured dials owes a great deal to brands that have leaned into nature-inspired surfaces. Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake” is often credited with kicking off the trend; its finely layered, almost paper-like texture showed just how expressive a dial could be without resorting to bold colors or busy layouts. Coupled with the novel spring-drive movement, that watch gave the premium brand a serious boost, and no wonder Grand Seikos kept boasting unique dials ever after.


What makes this design direction especially compelling is that it bridges the gap between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary watchmaking. Stamped textures, laser finishing, and powdered lacquers all coexist today, each offering a distinct visual nuance. And for collectors, especially those who enjoy discovering small details, textured dials offer the perfect blend of subtlety and richness: quiet at a glance, rewarding under the loupe.

Orient, as a brand that's always happy to add a bit of flair to its designs, dipped its toes in the texture pool as well. Considering it is a visual element that requires no changes to the mechanical parts of the watch, it's a trend that aligns perfectly with its watchmaking preferences.


Take, for instance, the 1970 Orient GM. Containing one of Orient's rare high-beat movements (borrowed from Seiko), but housed in a modest case, most GMs were presented with unique dial textures – possibly hinting that something special is ticking inside. The two samples above show one GM with a linen dial (a style that I see as the true ancestor of the snowflake) and one with simpler, but not any less attractive, geometric finishing.

Royal Orient, of course, would also feature plenty of unusual dials, fitting for a high-end product. Pictured below are just two of many, my favorite polka-dot dial and a more obscure model with a dial that looks like a stamped gold leaf.


Modern Royal Orient watches, while they lasted, also had some standout dials. These were largely inspired by classic machine-turning patterns such as Guilloché and tapisserie. While similar patterns can be found on other Orient watches, the "Royal" versions were generally finished to higher standards.

In the 1980s and 1990s, Orient turned much of its attention to quartz watches. These, too, were often adorned with textured dials. Below, for instance, is a golden ladies' watch featuring a pressed pattern resembling linen dials.


In the second half of the 1990s the focus returned to automatic watches. With the renewed interest, proper dial decorations made their comeback – both to the standard models, and to the reintroduced Orient Star label.

Over the past 30 years or so, Orient and Orient Star dials have featured numerous patterns and textures. Only a few examples can be listed here… two of those are shown below, in the Orient Polaris GMT's Guilloché-like weave pattern, and the "Clous de Paris" finishing of the FD series Orient Star.


Even when Orient does semi-skeleton dials, where the open heart aperture is already taking much of the attention (and space) given to the dial, there's always room for a bit of texture. The layered skeleton is one extreme example, where Orient had put together a few bold patterns.

Another example is the classic moon-phase watch, which has a particularly complex dial structure. Here, the center of the dial features a repeated pattern of Orient Star symbols.


Today, I see two new trends in the application of textured dials by Orient. First, in regular Orient models, these are typically offered to highlight limited edition models – such as this 75th anniversary limited edition Mako 40mm, shown below.

A completely different approach is taken at the very high end of the Orient Star range. The new M34 F8 Date models were given unique dial finishes and colors, which, along with the fine polishing and premium specs, convey an unmistakable Grand Seiko vibe. Which is fair enough, given how many different brands (including the 3rd major Japanese brand, Citizen) are attempting the same.


 

Some photos were taken from Orient publications and sale ads, or other classic watch sales ads; photos of blue GM, gold Royal Orient, moonphase, layered skeleton, sun & moon, blue FD-series model, and polka-dot Royal Orient are copyrighted by the blog.