Orient Place

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Showing posts with label M-Force. Show all posts
Showing posts with label M-Force. Show all posts

Sunday, 12 January 2025

The Dangerous Curves of The M-Force EX0D


Adding a new M-Force to the collection is always a festive event, and even more so when it's a beast as rare and unique as the 1998 EX0D. A recent acquisition, the review of this piece is a great way to kick off 2025.

The M-Force family has always stood out among Orient's product lines. Whereas the brand was never shy of releasing quirky-looking watches, sport and dive watches are usually fairly conservative, following strict rules that naturally follow their functional and visual requirements. M-Force models, however, follow their own rules; While most watchmakers struggle to come up with any truly original designs that don't look like another Rolex Sub homage, Orient seems to just keep churning out different designs with every new generation and variation of the M-Force.


And yet, the EX0D is a bit unusual even among fellow M-Force models. Internally, it is similar to the EX00, both powered by caliber 46G: a simple automatic movement that does not offer hand-winding or second-hand hacking, but does offer reliability and robustness. Therein ends the similarity to its predecessor.

The EX0D boasts a flowing integrated bracelet design. I find that it very successfully blends organic, smooth lines with sharp angles and an overall chunkiness that adds visual heft to a not-so-hefty watch: it is, in fact, smaller than the EX00, and with a 39mm width (excluding the crown guard) and 47mm lug-to-lug it is one of the smallest M-Force models.

What it lacks in size, this watch more than compensates for in character. Most obvious is the curved, asymmetrical sapphire crystal that covers the dial. With a height difference of nearly 22mm between its center and lowest point, stretching over a mere 16mm radius, it's the most prominent curvature I've come across in a sapphire crystal. And, of course, that "bite" that's been taken off the lower right corner makes it more unique – and practically impossible to replace, so better take good care of it.


The matching bezel, similarly curved and bitten off, further emphasizes the crystal's shape. It's one of only three or four versions of M-Force that did not feature a rotating bezel of any sort. It's also the only one I know of that has the model name etched on it outside of the dial.

The dial itself is relatively simple: rectangular hour and minute hands and rectangular hour markers. The standard power reserve indicator. No lume, whatsoever (possibly the only M-Force without even minimal lume). Well, as you probably already figured out, this M-Force is not for diving, not even in theory. This is purely to show off your unique taste in watches.


The dial color here changes quite a lot, from warm silver to almost champagne, depending on which angle you're viewing it – not only because of the metallic painting but also because of the reflective nature of the crystal.

The EX0D actually featured four separate references – there was this one, with the silver(ish) dial and golden elements, as well as silver without golden elements. And there were also versions with a black dial, and either silver or gold elements.

These "elements" would include not just the hands and markers but also the screw-in crown – used to set the time – and the pusher, which is used to set the date. The coating on the small curved surface at the center of each link is also a detail so subtle you'd be forgiven for not immediately noticing it, even when holding the watch in your hands. It's definitely a much more restrained execution of "two-tone" than in, say, the older EX00.


The wearing experience is very positive, thanks to the modest dimensions. A thickness of 15.5mm at the top of the crystal is not insignificant, though, and while the sturdy bracelet keeps it comfortably balanced on the wrist, it is still quite the lump. If you are the sort of person who tends to knock such bulging watches against doorknobs, take extra care – did we mention you don't want to have to replace this crystal…?

But all these petty complaints are truly unimportant when judging a watch like this. For a true Orient collector, or just about anyone looking for unorthodox watch designs, the EX0D is a real gem: rare, quirky, yet an absolutely practical everyday watch.


Tuesday, 15 October 2024

Orient's Titanium Watches


Titanium has become a popular material for watch cases due to its unique properties. It was first introduced by Citizen in the 1970s, a pioneering move that opened the door for its use in both luxury and entry-level watches. Since then, many watchmakers have adopted titanium as an alternative to traditional materials like stainless steel.

One of titanium's key advantages is its excellent strength-to-weight ratio. It’s about 45% lighter than steel while being just as strong, making it comfortable to wear for extended periods. Titanium is also highly resistant to corrosion, which is particularly beneficial for those who wear their watches in harsh environments, such as saltwater or humid conditions.

In terms of hardness, titanium is generally softer than stainless steel, which makes it more prone to scratching. However, newer technologies like surface-hardening treatments have addressed this issue by making titanium surfaces much more durable.

From a manufacturing standpoint, titanium presents unique challenges compared to steel. While it has a lower surface hardness, meaning it can scratch more easily than steel, titanium is actually tougher in terms of resistance to bending and deformation. This toughness makes it more difficult to machine, cut, or mold into shape. Its lower malleability means that specialized tools and techniques are required to work with it, especially when forming intricate designs or achieving precise finishes.

Polishing titanium is also more complex, as the material’s natural dullness doesn’t easily achieve the same level of shine as steel. However, the unique matte or brushed finish that titanium often has is part of its appeal, giving watches a modern, understated look.

Despite the challenges in manufacturing, the combination of lightweight comfort, durability, and a sleek aesthetic makes titanium a popular choice in watchmaking. Following in Citizen's footsteps, the major Japanese watch brands adopted titanium for their cases, Seiko and Orient included. Let’s explore some notable examples of Orient watches that feature titanium cases.


The earliest Orient to use titanium as the base material for its case and bracelet was the first generation M-Force, the EX00 model introduced in 1997. That was already a very special design, and producing it in unpolished, grey, almost gunmetal-looking titanium must have added much to its uniqueness.

From that point on, titanium models would continue to pop up among Orient's releases, albeit in a fairly random manner and not in prevailing in any long-going lineage. For example, there was the occasional titanium M-Force, despite most M-Force models getting steel cases.


These included the relatively well-known titanium beast, reference WV0011DV (or WV0021DV with the yellow minute track), introduced in 2013. But there was also the much less known, almost mysterious M-Force ref. CFD04001/2 – one of those releases that made me think that some Orients actually got their "M-Force" badge by mistake…

Some other sports models besides the M-Force also received their titanium cases. For instance, there was a whole range of titanium watches that emerged in the late 1990s (and featured a very distinct "nineties" look). And later came the Orient "Slide-rule" design – a pretty nice model actually.


Of course, it wasn't just M-Force, or sports models in general. Orient did introduce a number of dressy titanium models too.

Take a look at these two watches, for instance. I'm not sure of their price point at the time of production — probably a step or two above the entry-level models, with a textured dial and sapphire glass. It is odd, though, that a titanium watch was offered on a leather strap — I might be wrong, but every other titanium Orient I came across had a metal bracelet.

                          

Titanium usage on Orient Stars was (and still is) rare, possibly as achieving the high-end sub-brand's shiny finish is harder with this metal. But there are exceptions.

The first exception was the 2015 Orient Star Titanium, which was presented in 5 versions -  ref. WZ0011AF (with a grey dial), WZ0021AF (blue), WZ0031AF (white), WZ0041AF (special edition of white dial and gold markers), and WZ0051AF (black dial).

It is interesting to note that this titanium model got a movement unique to it—caliber F6N42. This movement is similar to F6N43 (which is used in the current Outdoor and Basic Date models) but has only 40 hours of power reserve instead of 50 in the newer movement.


We'll conclude this review with the 1964 diver, the latest Orient watch to get a titanium case. Notably, it's also the only Orient model that has ever been offered in both steel and titanium, for the consumer to choose.

This allows us to compare the weights of both versions easily: according to the manufacturer, the steel model weighs 175g, while the titanium watch only weighs 113g. And here's a simple math question for you: How much does the part of the watch that doesn't change (movement, sapphire, etc.) weigh?

 

The pictures of the EX00 M-Force that appear in this post are copyright of the blog. Other pictures that appear in this post were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads. 

Sunday, 9 June 2024

Traveling With… An Orient


We often talk about watches being rugged and capable of surviving the rough outdoors, beyond the office doors and the neon lights under which they look so nice and clean. In my reviews, too, I often take note of features such as water and shock resistance, as well as suitable appearances (I think a little gold dress watch would look very much out of place, getting beaten up and soaked in some river, even if technically it would not be damaged).

To make this a little less theoretical, today's blog post is about my experiences with Orients in the wild. Once again, it's the M-Force models that take up center stage, but whereas my recent post about them was a bit academic, this time, we'll be taking a deep dive into the real world.

The first Orient to accompany me on my journeys was the EX00. I was about to go on a two-week trip in the Pacific Northwest and was looking for a watch that would be sporty, tough, yet comfortable. An ad by a familiar seller caught my eye. This first-generation M-Force, with its titanium lightweight case, seemed right for the job.

And it was! The EX00 was almost 20 years old at the time, which is not old at all for this type of watch. The convenience of titanium made it a perfect companion for this relatively long journey. And while the region – particularly in the mountains – generally has a cool climate, it was still summer (Seattle in particular was scorching on the day I visited there!) so the cool feel of this metal was also appreciated.

In the pictures above, by the way, are Mount Rainier and Smith Rock State Park. These are just two of many spots making the PNW trip memorable.

Jumping a few years forward, when planning a trip to Iceland in 2021 I already had bought the then-new 3rd generation M-Force, and had gotten used to (and even grown fond of) its bulky crown guard. Being perfectly comfortable on the rubber band and seemingly more robust than the old 1st generation model, I chose it as my wrist partner for the trip.

To be honest, by that time I was already thinking of the older M-Force as "vintage". With its non-sapphire crystal (and particularly the easy-to-scratch cyclops), I wanted to keep it safe. I was planning some hikes in Iceland, and not knowing exactly what to expect on the remote island, going for sapphire and a newer case construction seemed to make sense.

Plus, to be honest, despite getting used to its design – I still felt I'd rather get the newer watch scratched than the old one (or any of my other dive/tool watches)…

The pictures above are of Vestdalsfossar waterfall and Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon. It is honestly impossible to pick photos from a trip around Iceland. The picture with the watch, of course, was taken at the famous Reynisfjara beach.               

The newer M-Force was also my watch of choice for a shorter trip to Spain. More driving was planned than hiking this time; however, I always find the time for a short (or not so short) walk in the outdoors, so a watch that's ready for anything that might come its way is always a good thing.

The photo shows the lovely view of Málaga as seen from the Mirador de Pocopán. It is an easy 5 km hike with a surprisingly steep and slippery slope to the viewpoint…

Meanwhile, the 2nd generation "Beast" arrived. Possibly the toughest and boldest of the lot, this one also has two critical features: it's the heaviest of the lot, and – my favorite, design-wise. The combination of heft and not wanting to get it scratched or banged, means I don't usually take it on long journeys.

I do still take it, occasionally, on short trips close to home…

For the next trips, I went back to the 3rd gen M-Force. In Norway, this choice made sense. I arrived in October, intentionally aiming for the end of the tourist season. The timing earned me beautiful views of trees in fall, and much less crowded viewpoints over the fjords.

It's a risky affair, of course, as I did had to cancel one planned trip due to road closure (granting me instead a trip through the 25 km of the longest road tunnel in the world, Lærdalstunnelen, also a kind of experience). And I did find myself on a road that began to freeze with snow, forcing me to stop and wait for a little sunshine.

This also became my rainiest trip – though I was preparing for it. As I drove further away from Bergen, things got better, but I still found myself on some very slippery trails – one of which I just had to abort two-thirds of the way to the top, as things got too muddy. That was definitely a time when having a waterproof watch with decent case protection proved to be effective, as on some parts of the path I had to use my hands to climb safely.

Pictured below, a small stream just off the amazingly scenic road to Geiranger, and a place near Fjærlandsfjorden where I'd honestly be happy to retire to, one day... I must admit that among all the beautiful countries I have visited, I found Norway to be the true beauty queen.

A good place to wrap up this story would be the Faroe Islands. Going to this usually cloudy, often foggy location, with plenty of hikes and the memory of skiddy Norwegian paths in mind, I again went for the newer M-Force, now becoming sort of a habit – my go-to watch for remote trips.

The islands proved to be less rainy than I feared; indeed, I arrived in late May (yes, just a couple of weeks ago) relying on statistics showing this was actually the least rainy time of year, despite July – September being warmer. I really don't mind the cold.

Throughout the week I spent on these beautiful, calm – almost dreamy – islands, I encountered one really rainy day, five days that were cloudy but mostly dry during the day, and surprisingly – one day of sunshine and blue sky. As you can see above, in these two pictures taken near Norðradalur. 


Sunday, 26 May 2024

Cyclopes, and Where to Find Them


The "cyclops" is a magnifying lens, typically placed over the date window of a watch, intended to make the date more legible. The concept was invented by Rolex and was used for the first time with the 1953 Datejust. In the years that followed it was gradually adopted by other brands.

Orient started using cyclopes (which is the proper plural form of cyclops) in 1961, which makes sense as that is when the brand's first watches that featured a date wheel were introduced.


The first two models equipped with a cyclops where the "Lucky Calendar", and the Grand Prix Calendar. Later, in 1963, Orient also added a cyclops to some of its Olympia Orient Weekly models.

Over the years, Orient would occasionally add cyclops to certain models. While the brand never seemed to maintain a consistent, long-term approach to the use of this contraption, it did implement it regularly throughout the production of its "Rolex President" homages, both the day-date and the datejust variants. That too makes sense, considering these watches were the origin of the cyclops.


On a few rare occasions, Orient even placed a cyclops over both the date and the day, in cases where the two shared an aperture, or were placed adjacently. Such were the Orient Fineness, as well as certain models of the Chronoace, including a few "College" and "Racer" versions. A few of the 1970s

Note that the vast majority of Chronoace watches did not feature a cyclops, so a flat crystal is what you're likely to find when shopping for these.

A few "AAA" King Divers also featured the combined day and date magnification. You can see a few examples here.


Here are a few examples of how effective the magnification is; as you can see in the close-up photos of the Fineness above, and the Weekly Auto Orient AAA and M-Force below.

Note that only the early 1997-8 M-Force models featured a cyclops; later models did not. Keep in mind the first generation of this watch did not use sapphire crystal, and the lens protruding from the mineral glass was prone to scratches, particularly with a watch that's intended for rough use. So perhaps that's why Orient dropped the cyclops.



On one particular occasion, Orient started making a line of watches with the Cyclops, and then – removed it… this was the 2010 "Star Seeker" GMT line.

The first references of this model (WZ0011DJ, WZ0021DJ, WZ0031DJ) were introduced with a cyclops; after one year of production, Orient replaced them with new references (WZ0041DJ and WZ0051DJ) that did not feature a cyclops. Both early and later versions had a sapphire crystal. Why did Orient do that? Was it to simplify production? Was it a design decision? Who knows.

However, the change definitely helps to observe just how effective the magnification is. See how much clearer the date appears in the earlier model (on the right-hand side of the image).


These are, of course, just a few examples. You will be able to find other Orients equipped with a date magnifier, particularly among older watches.

But, despite the usefulness of the cyclops, especially in watches intended for older customers (such as the president homages were, indeed), Orient's current line up does not include a single watch featuring this lens.

Personally, I would have loved to see a cyclops on the 38mm Bambino, for instance, or the Orient Star Classic. What do you think?


 

The picture of the M-Force, AAA, and Fineness that appear in this post are copyright of the blog. Other pictures that appear in this post were taken from various Orient catalogs and sale ads. 

Sunday, 18 February 2024

Three Generations of M-Force, Compared


The "M-Force" is currently Orient's longest-running product line, now spanning 27 years since the introduction of the first generation. During this time designs have changed and movements have evolved, but the "three M's DNA" remained as Orient has defined them: Mechanical, Massive, and Maverick.

Owning three different members of the M clan from three different periods, I thought a comparison would be interesting. What do the three have in common, how much do they differ, and which one – if that is at all a reasonable question to ask – is the best?


First, a quick reminder of what we're talking about here.

The oldest of the lot is the 1997 EX00 – really the earliest model among the EX## family of "first generation M-Force". This was also my first M-Force, bought in 2017. I first got it on a replacement strap (the one you'd see pictured in that old blog post); a few years though, I stumbled upon a seller offering an original bracelet, a very lucky coincidence as anyone trying to find a bracelet for an old watch would know.

The next one in the collection – though the more recent acquisition – is the 2014 model also known as the "Beast 2" or "Delta" version. The biggest of the lot, and with its red dial perhaps the boldest too.

The latest M-Force model, released in 2020 (with a number of variations on the same theme introduced later) has been with me for three years now. At first it did raise a few eyebrows with its bulky crown guard and the loss of the classic power reserve indicator, but it has since been accepted to the M-Force family.


Technically, an evolution is clear, mainly between the first gen and more recent iterations. The EX00 boasts the good old caliber 46G. It's a workhorse, but lacks hacking and manual winding. The Delta uses the 40N5A, while the 2020 model uses the more modern, but similarly specced, F6727 – both offering that coveted hand-winding/hacking feature set.

Model evolution also added more protection over the years. Newer models were designed with ISO standards in mind – for diving, shock resistance and magnetic resistance. The new watches sure feel more robust than the first generation.

So, considering the first "M" – "Mechanical" – newer probably is better. While basic reliability and tool-watch capabilities were built into the M-Force as early as the EX00, I'd definitely choose the newer models for when protection is needed. And the latest one, with its shrouded construction, sapphire crystal and big crown-guard, feels the most resilient of the lot.


"M" also stands for maverick design, which is Orient-speak for "quirky", and we all know how well Orient does quirky. In this sense, the first generation was perhaps the standout. With its unashamed two-tone case and bracelet, multicolor power-reserve gauge, elaborate hands, and wavy dial texture. It's as Orient as it gets.

The Delta and 2020 M-Force are definitely very bold, and have very recognizable designs – not looking like any run-of-the-mill dive watch. The Delta's appearance is, in my opinion, also very attractive. The 2020 models I wouldn't exactly call pretty – but perhaps they do embrace the "maverick" concept more strongly than the Delta.

While they each have something unique in their design, I still find the old EX00 to be the most special of the three, a true maverick.


How about comfort? Obviously, the EX00 is a featherweight compared to later models. It may have been considered relatively big back in the 1990s, emerging from an era of thin quartz watches. Nowadays, its 42mm titanium case seems weightless. It is as effortless a wearing experience as a sports watch can be.

The Delta and the 2020 models are beasts. The Delta is the biggest in all dimensions, and not surprisingly – also the heaviest. It is perfectly wearable (especially if some heft is your thing), but not a watch you'd call unnoticeable on the wrist. The 2020 is actually very reasonably sized for a tough dive watch, and particularly on the rubber band is quite comfortable.


So, how do I feel about each of these watches? Despite each having certain downsides, they are all very likeable.

The EX00 is a quirky, funky design. The Delta is big and bold, and makes you feel like Schwarzenegger for wearing it. The 2020 is the more sensible, tough yet comfortable, and still far from mainstream.

Looking back at my wearing habits of these three, I find that the Delta was often my go-to for a quick evening excursion, the EX00 was my preferred office wear, while the 2020 became a favorite companion for long journeys and hikes.

The M-Force family might not be as tightly defined a package as, say Bambino or Mako, so there are many differences between the various generations and versions, of which there are many more besides these three. But they do share a certain philosophy, which goes beyond the formal "Three M's" and I see it as "being unapologetically different".

 

Sunday, 12 March 2023

The Orient M-Force "Beast 2 / Delta"


M-Force. Beast. Delta. The words alone make you think of a mighty dive watch. Now think 49mm diameter. In your imagination, this already takes shape of something worn by a Viking, or by Arnold Schwarzenegger. Well… you're not far from the truth.

We've covered the M-Force lineage here on the blog before. M-Force watches, first introduced in 1997, were named after three "M" words – Mechanical force; Maverick design; and, Massive. Since their re-introduction in 2011 they were also built to meet three important standards in watchmaking: ISO 6425 for diving, ISO 764 for anti-magnetic watches, and ISO 1413 for shock resistance.


The model we're looking at today is the 2014 model also known as the Delta version, or the Beast II (Beast "I" being the left-hand crown M-Force released in 2012). Specifically, the red dial model reference EL07002H, or JDM reference WV0161EL.

The Delta was, and to this date is, the biggest of all M-Force watches. Measuring 49.1mm across and 54.1mm long, it leaves behind models like the first Beast and the current M-Force, measuring 47mm.

The numbers could be a bit misleading though. Like many M-Force models, this watch has a somewhat irregular design. The crown guard is mirrored by a similar shape on the left side of the watch case, adding to the width; and it does not really have lugs, instead having an integrated bracelet dipping from the edge of the case, making it a lot more wearable than what 54mm might have you think.

Still, it's big.


Big, and tough. Taking photos of this piece with a toolbox wasn't so much a stylistic decision as much as being mandated by the watch (I swear, it demanded to be photographed this way!)

But, okay, enough with dimensions already. What else does this watch have to offer?

The first thing you'll note is the gorgeous deep red dial, shining below the sapphire crystal. Look at it closely, and you'll appreciate the intricate paint job. It has a non-industrial feel, which even reminds me of some "Urushi" lacquer-painted dials I have seen. That, along with the grooves and other marks and textures, makes the dial stand out – particularly, but not just, under direct sunlight.


It's not just the color, but the dial really works well. The applied markers are big and bold, and align perfectly with the minute track. The power reserve indicator is nicely designed, clear but not too intrusive, as is the date window. Other markings include the Orient and M-Force logos, "automatic" and "200m".

Legibility is aided by generous lume (as one would expect from a proper dive watch). Here, Orient even went the extra mile and added lume to the power-reserve needle.


The case is quite thoughtfully designed. As mentioned, its symmetry, other than mirroring the crown guard, adds character, and makes room for Orient to play with different finishing styles. So, while the top of the case, as well as the crown-guard surface and its left-side sibling are lightly brushed, the diagonal sides of the case are polished. This combination leaves the impression of quality and attention to detail.

The crown too is really nicely designed. It's big and super grippy, and fairly easy to screw and unscrew. The red ring is both aesthetically pleasing, and serves as a reminder for the wearer to keep the crown locked in. Note the slight wobble of the crown: it's not freely moving as in cheaper dive watches, instead requiring some minimal force to push around, but it's definitely noticeable. This feature is intended to prevent a knock on the crown from damaging the stem. Some people find this an unwanted behavior. Personally, I don't mind the wobble, and it has no effect while the crown is locked.


The black IP bezel is also worth mentioning, as it's among the better I've encountered – certainly at this price range – as good as Orient's legendary Saturation Diver. It provides a good grip and requires just the right amount of force to turn. It clicks into position securely, and stays there with practically zero back play.

The bracelet is solid, comfortable and well made. The clasp allows for micro-adjustment but does not include a diver's extension; and it is stamped, rather than milled, thereby becoming the only part of the watch which appears to have been compromised to meet a budget, with most other parts really punching way above its price point.

Overall, the Delta on its bracelet provides a well-balanced wearing experience, if you can pull it off. I'm not sure of its weight – clearly well over 200g – so other than size, this watch is intended for those who appreciate heft in a sports watch. But on my 7.25" wrist it felt good, the 14.6mm thickness is noticeable but proportional, and the case shape helps it sit nicely on the wrist. You never forget the watch is there – but you don't mind it either. In fact, you should very well like it!


The M-Force Delta is powered by Orient's automatic caliber 40N5A. It provides automatic winding and second-hand hacking, and well deserves to be called "workhorse movement". Its specs state +25/-15 seconds per day accuracy – mine does about +6 seconds.

The case-back, in case you're wondering, is solid and does not offer any view of the movement, nor does it offer any decoration. It simply bears the Orient and M-Force logos, and the usual technical info.


The M-Force Delta has been discontinued since 2016. You can find pre-owned ones, either with the red dial or other variants (black and blue) at around 450-600 USD, and once in a while a NOS/NIB one might pop up as well (not necessarily at a higher price). The rarer "Subaru STI" limited edition of the Delta is hard to find and likely to cost much more.

If you do buy a pre-owned watch, make sure you get enough bracelet links to match your wrist, as the integrated bracelet cannot be replaced with after-market substitutes.

If you like your watches big and tough, and got a wrist to match, you would very likely love this version of the M-Force. The combination of good looks, high quality, and durability, are hard to beat. And even if you do beat it, the M-Force can take the punch, easily.