This
will not be the first "AAA" covered on the blog. I've already posted
a story about the Orient
AAA Deluxe a while back. This time though, I felt like going for something
more classic-looking, and whereas that DXO was quite distinctively Japanese,
the model I'm looking at now is clearly influenced by Swiss designs.
More
specifically – the influence of the Rolex Day-Date. That iconic watch – the first
to display the full day of the week along with the date – was introduced in
1956, and by the mid-1960s when this AAA was produced, its design had already
become an object of admiration and source of inspiration for watch designers
worldwide.
This
AAA, while clearly not a "replica" and having a fairly distinct and
more simple-looking dial, displays such clear day-date elements, like the
fluted bezel, cyclops, and of course – the combined day and date display.
At
the time Orient released numerous versions of the Weekly Auto, differing in jewel
count (generally ranging between 19-25, with some rare models going as high as
30) and in their dial layout – with a few featuring the arched day window (like
the Rolex) while others having a rectangular window.
This
particular piece I'm holding is the 21 jewel, rectangular day type. I do like
that it's quite different from my other Weekly Auto (which is the King
Diver with the arched window) and as mentioned, also different from my
other AAA.
The
hands on this watch seem a bit short, as both minute and second hands do not
reach the hours markers. I was wondering if the hands were possibly replaced at
some point; however, I did see numerous photos of weekly auto's with a similar
set of hands (as well as variants with longer hands). So possibly this is
original.
Also,
while lumed hands often got replaced when the paint degraded, these watches
generally had simple metal hands with no paint, so hands rarely needed a
change. And this watch is generally in excellent condition – the case is nicely
kept, the dial is clean and the crystal and cyclops without any visible scratches
– so the hands should not have been damaged.
Indeed
upon close inspection one can appreciate the nicely brushed dial, well-polished
markers and aperture frames. While lacking the more intricate design elements
of the Deluxe (like more elaborate marker design and matching hands), it's
still a handsome watch.
The
fluted bezel was first used by Rolex on their cushion-case Oyster in 1926, but
it received its familiar iconic shape when it got attached to the round case of
the Datejust in 1945. It adds sparkle and elegance to the watch, even if it is
not made of gold…
The
cyclops too was a Rolex novelty, just another one of their numerous inventions
in the prolific 1950s. What is it about this little extra piece of crystal that
goes so well with fluted bezels, I don't know. Perhaps we just got used to this
combination so much. Anyway it's a nice addition. It's hard to estimate its
magnification here, but it helps to read the date. As for the weekday, you'll
have to wear your glasses.
Then
there's the beads of rice bracelet, another key component of this model's
style, though not actually a day-date thing; while Rolex did use some BoR
bracelets in the 1940s, it later adopted its self-designed Jubilee bracelet
instead. BoR did remain a favorite of other top-tier brands looking for an
elegant alternative to Milanese bracelets.
The
BoR bracelet here (Orient's original) is of the quite common 7-link type, with
the broad outer links. It is a very comfortable bracelet, and visually makes a
perfect match for the bezel. Quality is more than adequate and it does not pull
any hair.
Let's
look at dimensions. The case width is 38mm without the crown, and lug to lug it
is 45mm. That's a perfect size of a dress watch even by today's standards. It's
also larger than older Weekly Auto AAAs that had a 37mm wide, 43mm long case.
And maybe that even holds an explanation to the short hands.
All
in all, a very nice watch. In typical Orient manner (and indeed like other Japanese
brands), the brand paid homage to a design that became popular in Europe a few
years earlier, but while doing so it added some of its own distinctive styling.
Despite all Rolex elements, the dial is still very "Orient" with the
logo, AAA and tristar symbol, and of course – the push-button for changing the
date.
Prices
for Weekly Auto AAAs today generally go between 200 to 400 USD, depending
on condition. A watch in good condition, with clean dial, original crystal with
cyclops, and original bracelet, would probably go for closer to the upper end
of the range.
Very nice watch indeed!
ReplyDeleteThanks :) I think so too.
DeleteI have just picked up 1 of these is the day wheel only in Japanese?
DeleteHi! The models with the full length day of week are all single language since there is no room for two languages on the wheel. This one is Japanese only.
Delete