Orient Place Blog's 6th Anniversary

So, we pulled through and made it to another anniversary – the blog's sixth! And as I like to do on this annual event, it's high time for some stats and thoughts.

Let's start with the stats, shall we?

The blog website itself, has had more than 182,000 views in the past twelve months – an increase of about 29%, almost twice last year's growth in percents (and much more, in absolute numbers)! Pretty impressive, isn't it. Looks like people's interest in Orient is still growing – or that more of them have discovered this blog. Or both.

Thirty two (32) stories were posted on the blog during this time, about the same volume as in previous years. This includes five reviews of new or older modern models, a couple of vintage model reviews, three articles related to Orient's old calibers, nine new watch announcements (most covering more than a single new model), and the rest discussing various other topics.

The most popular stories during this time were our coverage of the release of New Diver and Classic Models From Orient (basically Mako versions and Bambino with sub-dials), Orient Mako 40mm Hands-On Review, and Orient's June Releases: New Bambino V4 and Divers (that also covered the release of the Mako 40).

Together with Comparing the Mako 40 to Citizen's Promaster, articles about the 40mm Mako received more than 9,000 views from direct links – that is, excluding viewers who read those stories when they were fresh at the top of the blog page – definitely making this watch the most interesting new release of the past year. This is despite the odd issue with the minute markers in the early production batches, which has since been fixed.

In Social media, too, the Mako 40 seemed to get most of the attention. The top two most liked photos posted on my Instagram account (which is largely, but not solely, blog-related) were of this piece.

The other three, which completed the top five popular IG posts, actually had little in common. They showed a bunch of Orients against a Rolex catalog, the lovely Orient Star ref. WZ0221ER, and an AI-generated mock-up of some souped-up watches.

Now, some may say that if a fairly conventionally designed diver is the most exciting thing that came from Orient during the last 12 months, they'd be disappointed. I mean, obviously we've seen really lovely new models announced, but they are all at the highest price point of the brand, well above what 99% of Orient customers are looking for.

To be fair, I think most of what fans of the brand would put on their wish list would be high-end too – whether it's a new saturation diver, a new GMT, or anything more innovative than what the basic F6 movements currently provide. Plus, it seems that with its recent enhancement of the range of smaller models (not just the Mako but also Bambino variations), Orient was really listening to its customers.

If we look at last week's Watches & Wonders event in Switzerland, we'd see that this was actually the same trend for almost all other brands – Swiss and others: very few novelties in the accessible range, with innovation mostly focused on the very high end of each brand.

So, no reason to be disappointed really. Let's just hope the brand keeps its VFM and ensures quality is in line with the recent price updates (in truth, I've seen some watch brands do the exact opposite), and maybe come next year's anniversary, there will be more cool stuff to look back on!

Until then, thanks again to all blog followers, here and on the various social media channels, keep following, commenting, and providing feedback!

 

Orient's "Alpinist"

In 2007, Orient presented a curious model of Orient Star Sports. It looked like a GMT, but it was not. What was it then? Let's dive in and find out.

The most obvious influence that likely pushed forward this design, was the introduction of Seiko's SARB series Alpinist the year before – a watch that became an instant classic (while actually duplicating the brand's own decade-old SCVF series, or "red" Alpinist).

The Alpinist featured an internal compass bezel, rotated using the crown at 4 o'clock – that actually looked more prominent than the main crown, as it was not hiding between crown guards.

Orient's design, albeit quite different and as far away from a copy as possible, takes two key elements from the Seiko: the internal compass bezel, and the crown at four. Hereafter begin the differences.

The model had four versions, which were references WZ0071FE, WZ0081FE, WZ0091FE and – the one I am looking at now for the writing of this review: WZ0101FE. The four differed in their dial color, and in that all but the WZ0101FE came bundled with a steel bracelet, whereas the latter was sold with a leather strap.

Now, I don't usually read a watch's instructions manual unless it is particularly complicated. So when I got this watch I immediately wanted to pull out the crown and set it… so the first surprise was that it's a screw-in crown. Why was that a surprise, I don't know, it just didn't strike me as one; at the time most of Orient's crowns were just pull-out, except for the more expensive models – which this wasn't.

The second surprise was when I tried to rotate the bezel. No crown position or winding direction seemed to do that, so went online to read about the model and found out that indeed the bezel is fixed!

When you think about it, this actually makes sense. Why would you rotate a compass bezel? The angle of the North has nothing to do with the time or the dial. You can just move entire the watch around (never mind that the whole thing is just decorative and carrying an actual compass when you're out and about would probably be a lot more helpful).

But then you think some more and once again, the logic is gone. Because this watch uses Orient's caliber 46P, which drives a 24-hour hand, and was used in some of the brand's earlier GMT watches. And indeed this watch features the 24 hour hand – and its internal bezel, besides the directions of the compass, also shows the 24 hours of the day! This thing really ought to be moving! But it does not.

So I believe we have established that from a functional point of view, this watch is rather silly. I mean, not completely – it does show the time, it is rated to a reasonable 100m of water resistance and it has a front sapphire crystal. But still, there's plenty of silliness to it.

Other than that it is a very nice piece. A 39mm wide barrel case which is practically lugless makes a very wearable watch that would fit most small-to-slightly-larger-than-average wrists. The lug width is 20mm, so changing straps is easy and you can even fit a standard steel bracelet without having to find a suitable end-link.

The dial looks good, and in fact – if you ignore the functional drawbacks, the entire watch is properly handsome. The black and red combo on this reference is sporty and sharp; other variants are a little different, with the white dial version a bit more elegant and the red – maybe more "interesting".

The dial colors are also nicely contrasting, making the watch very legible. The hands and markers have a decent lume too. It's a comfortable watch, then, sufficiently durable and useful. So maybe we were a bit quick to judge its functionality harshly.

As an Orient Star, it is also well made – although the finishing perhaps is not as impressive as most current OS production. The case has radial brushing on top and polished sides, and the overall curvature of it makes it look a little more upscale than it actually is.

The bottom line is this: it is a fine little watch. It looks good and is kind of special. If only that bezel would rotate it would be so much nicer… but still, it is what it is.

 

Orient Introduces a Smaller Small-Seconds Bambino

A little bit of a surprise today from Orient that almost went unnoticed: the brand introduces a new Bambino model, or "Classic and Simple" as they like to call it, with small seconds and a 38mm case.

Now, we've had a small seconds Bambino before, and 38mm models as well; but this is the first time the two features are combined in one watch. And the result is quite lovely, in my opinion.

Four references were presented with the announcement:

·         RA-AP0101B is perhaps the most unusual of the lot, with a black and silver "tuxedo" dial and black leather strap;

·         RA-AP0104S has an all-silver dial and black strap;

·         RA-AP0105Y has an ivory dial, and a brown leather strap;

·         RA-AP0106S has a silver dial with gold-color plated case and hands, and a brown strap.

I was honestly worried that the lovely tux version would turn out to be limited edition or something, but happily all versions would be globally available with no limitations.

All models are equipped with Orient's caliber F6222. A simple automatic movement but a reliable one, that holds a 40 hour power reserve and offer a +25/-15 seconds per day accuracy, hand-winding, and second-hand hacking.

The case is 38.4mm wide (without the crown), 44mm long, and 12mm thick (or thin). It's actual half a millimeter thinner than the standard 38mm Bambino, but still shares the same dial shape and curved mineral crystal.

The watch is resistant to 30m, and has a 20mm lug width. Not sporty then, but a perfectly sized dress watch. And the small seconds do add a bit of interest to the dial, so I like it. Particularly that tux dial, in case that was not already clear… 

The "Snorkeler" - Orient's Sub

We tend to think of the Mako as the iconic Orient diver. Nowadays, the Mako (and its various variations) is almost synonymous with the brand, with its easily identifiable design. However, it was not long ago that Orient was still producing homage dive watches, and one of these was the model also known as "Snorkeler", the "OriLex", or simply – the Orient Sub.

In fact, the watch was being manufactured around the same time as the first-generation Orient Mako. The model, an obvious homage to the Rolex Submariner, continued production up until Seiko completed the acquisition of Orient in 2009. It is said that after the takeover, Seiko wanted Orient to focus on original designs rather than homages. A very positive direction in my opinion, which compensates for what many see as the more mainstream approach taken by Orient designers since then.

Anyway, Orient's version of the sub was perceived as one of the better homages on the submariner theme in terms of value for money. With a decent movement, nice finishing, and good overall build quality (except for the very basic bracelet), it became quite popular. Nowadays, as mint samples are harder to find, it is even more sought after.

Orient originally released four versions, with black and blue dials, as well as two-tone versions – all in the spirit of Rolex's own models. While the addition of gold looks a bit tacky to me, the basic steel variants are solid-looking and quite nice, as homages go.

The Snorkelers, as some called them (sounds like an Orient USA nickname to me – not an original Orient name), presented a smaller alternative to the 41.5mm Mako, having a 39.5mm wide case, without the large day pusher. Indeed, it only had a 100m water resistance rating and not 200m like the Mako, but to many, this was good enough for practical use. Particularly as the Snorkeler did have a screw-down crown.

Toward the end of production, Orient released a second batch of these watches. This time, they received sapphire crystal, which the basic Mako divers did not have at the time. The updated version received new references, with some alterations in the dial to make telling them apart easier. Luckily Orient did not release updates for the two-tone versions…

Changes in the dial included the sapphire crystal symbol, removing the outdated jewel count in favor of the Orient Logo, and replacing "10 bar" with "100m". Which dial version you'd prefer, most likely depends on how you feel about the Orient logo.

Other than the dial and sapphire, all versions were technically identical, having the same case and caliber 48743 automatic, no-hacking and no hand winding movement. And most importantly, both mineral and sapphire crystals featured the "cyclops" magnifier over the date.

Perhaps not as well known, Orient also released a "lady-sub" model with a 33mm case. Having black, blue and brown dial versions, this model was properly cute and automatic as well, using Orient's smaller caliber 5574D.

Even more curious than the lady-sub model, is this variation – which seems like a legit Orient product, despite some fairly uncharacteristic dial text. The ad described this as a quartz movement, but the text "sunlight" on the dial seems to indicate this is a solar version of the Orient sub-homage design!

I was only able to find this model on Korean websites. If any reader can verify the authenticity of this watch, please let me know in the comments…

As most blog followers can probably tell, I very much prefer original designs to homages, even (or rather, particularly) when "original" in Orient's case can be quite leftfield. However, I do find this Snorkeler kind of cool – maybe because its dive-watch design is so classic, it's almost beyond the ownership of any single brand. In fact, if you took away the "Mercedes" hour hand, it would simply be… a dive watch.

Pictures that appear in this post were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads.  

Orient Mako 20th Anniversary Edition Contest + Discount Code

It's been a while since we've arranged a little something for Orient Place blog's followers. So, here is that "little something".

Last week I noticed a nice contest being run by WatchNation, a UK-based authorized retailer of Orient (and numerous other brands), who also ship internationally. WatchNation has apparently been granted exclusivity for selling the new Mako 20^th Anniversary Edition in the UK.

Now, they announced the following contest: for every 10 pre-orders received for the Mako Anniversary Edition, they'd be giving away 1 Orient Bambino Watch to a lucky winner, to be selected at random from those 10 pre-orders. 

                           

This seems like a great opportunity to build a two-watch collection inexpensively, with just a bit of luck: Orient's entry-level automatic diver-style watch and dress watch are two fine items. Plus, Easter is coming, so they can also make a pretty cool gift.

I did not get a chance to make a purchase with WatchNation before, but from my brief conversation with them and online reviews, seems like a more than decent retailer, with an online and brick-and-mortar store as well.

What's more, following my conversation, WatchNation also offered an exclusive discount code for Orient Place followers! Use code OP15 at checkout for 15% off the Orient Mako 20^th Anniversary.

Note, that the code is only applicable when purchasing the Mako 20^th Anniversary, and both code and the contest expire on March 31, 2024. Also note that while WatchNation's exclusivity is in the UK, the competition and discount code apply worldwide.

If you decide to enter the competition, I'd be happy to hear back on your experience, how you feel about the Mako Anniversary Edition (when you receive it), and of course, if you won a Bambino!

  

The Chronoace and Caliber 42

In 1969 Orient ended the reign of caliber 49 and the "AAA" moniker that was associated with it, and introduced a new family of watches and movements. The "Chronoace" (also sometimes referred to as Chrono Ace) equipped with caliber 42 ushered in an era of upgraded case designs, materials and colors that would become characteristic of the brand in the 1970s.

The Movement

Caliber 42 movements were mostly exclusive to the Chronoace line, although some were used in certain other models. All caliber 42 variants were automatic with hand winding, and operated at 18,000 BPH. They all shared the main architecture and features, including the day and date discs and (with one exception) the date quick-set button at 2 o'clock.

The main members of the family were:

·         Calibers 42940, 42950, 42960, 42970 with 21, 23, 25 and 27 jewels, respectively, were the common variants used in most Chronoace models.

·         A particular variant of 42950 that did not have the quickset button – presumably to improve water resistance – used in the Orient King Diver "Depth Gauge".

·         Caliber 42925 and 42972 with 17 and 27 jewels, respectively – as far as I know, these were variants not used in "Chronoace" watches, instead running models like the early 1970s "Crystal".

·         Caliber 42990 with 33 jewels, which must have been highly exclusive as I've yet to see photos of one!

Caliber 42 continued the evolution in Orient's movement engineering. For instance, the introduction of a "fine movement" speed adjustment device, the shift to a "star wheel" type switching wheel, and the transition to a "two-story third wheel and pinion system" from the traditional "three-needle system" marked a significant step in improving the movement's efficiency and stability.

Orient Chronoace

Early Chronoace models continued in typical 1960s style of late AAA models. Such were the "College" models – so these too would soon be updated and receive smoother cases and more

Over the next few years, the Chronoace range exploded with new versions and designs, some which were already discussed on the blog, under various topics. The 1969 "Special" model, for instance, whose photo appears at the top of this article, still looks like it has taken just a small step beyond the College. Shortly afterwards, new designs appeared.

Chronoace models took on various case shapes – including oval, round, triangular, and all sorts of more complex designs. This was typical of the era, as the 1960s style morphed into the 1970s.

A significant part of that development happened in the materials department. Besides color taking a much more prominent place in dial design (a trend that already began in the late 1960s), Orient began experimenting with various new materials.

Pretty soon, Chronoace models appeared that made use of stone cases, non-scratch steel and other elements. Some Chronoace dials featured Jaguar Focus paint schemes, and later - Mexican Mother-of-Pearl.

Dive watches were an important segment of Orient's product range, and here too – caliber 42 and the Chronoace name were included.

A number of Chronoace King Diver models were presented between 1969 and 1971. Most had been variations on Orient's familiar internal bezel design. The obvious exception was the King Diver Depth Gauge, a unique watch that probably deserves a separate post.

Honestly, much more can be written about the Chronoace lineage; Indeed much has already been told of these watches in this blog, and probably more mentions will be added in the future. This post, however, should serve as a hub page for the Chronoace models.

 

The picture of the Chronoace Special that appears at the top of this post is copyright of the blog. Other pictures that appear in this post were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads. 

Three Generations of M-Force, Compared

The "M-Force" is currently Orient's longest-running product line, now spanning 27 years since the introduction of the first generation. During this time designs have changed and movements have evolved, but the "three M's DNA" remained as Orient has defined them: Mechanical, Massive, and Maverick.

Owning three different members of the M clan from three different periods, I thought a comparison would be interesting. What do the three have in common, how much do they differ, and which one – if that is at all a reasonable question to ask – is the best?

First, a quick reminder of what we're talking about here.

The oldest of the lot is the 1997 EX00 – really the earliest model among the EX## family of "first generation M-Force". This was also my first M-Force, bought in 2017. I first got it on a replacement strap (the one you'd see pictured in that old blog post); a few years though, I stumbled upon a seller offering an original bracelet, a very lucky coincidence as anyone trying to find a bracelet for an old watch would know.

The next one in the collection – though the more recent acquisition – is the 2014 model also known as the "Beast 2" or "Delta" version. The biggest of the lot, and with its red dial perhaps the boldest too.

The latest M-Force model, released in 2020 (with a number of variations on the same theme introduced later) has been with me for three years now. At first it did raise a few eyebrows with its bulky crown guard and the loss of the classic power reserve indicator, but it has since been accepted to the M-Force family.

Technically, an evolution is clear, mainly between the first gen and more recent iterations. The EX00 boasts the good old caliber 46G. It's a workhorse, but lacks hacking and manual winding. The Delta uses the 40N5A, while the 2020 model uses the more modern, but similarly specced, F6727 – both offering that coveted hand-winding/hacking feature set.

Model evolution also added more protection over the years. Newer models were designed with ISO standards in mind – for diving, shock resistance and magnetic resistance. The new watches sure feel more robust than the first generation.

So, considering the first "M" – "Mechanical" – newer probably is better. While basic reliability and tool-watch capabilities were built into the M-Force as early as the EX00, I'd definitely choose the newer models for when protection is needed. And the latest one, with its shrouded construction, sapphire crystal and big crown-guard, feels the most resilient of the lot.

"M" also stands for maverick design, which is Orient-speak for "quirky", and we all know how well Orient does quirky. In this sense, the first generation was perhaps the standout. With its unashamed two-tone case and bracelet, multicolor power-reserve gauge, elaborate hands, and wavy dial texture. It's as Orient as it gets.

The Delta and 2020 M-Force are definitely very bold, and have very recognizable designs – not looking like any run-of-the-mill dive watch. The Delta's appearance is, in my opinion, also very attractive. The 2020 models I wouldn't exactly call pretty – but perhaps they do embrace the "maverick" concept more strongly than the Delta.

While they each have something unique in their design, I still find the old EX00 to be the most special of the three, a true maverick.

How about comfort? Obviously, the EX00 is a featherweight compared to later models. It may have been considered relatively big back in the 1990s, emerging from an era of thin quartz watches. Nowadays, its 42mm titanium case seems weightless. It is as effortless a wearing experience as a sports watch can be.

The Delta and the 2020 models are beasts. The Delta is the biggest in all dimensions, and not surprisingly – also the heaviest. It is perfectly wearable (especially if some heft is your thing), but not a watch you'd call unnoticeable on the wrist. The 2020 is actually very reasonably sized for a tough dive watch, and particularly on the rubber band is quite comfortable.

So, how do I feel about each of these watches? Despite each having certain downsides, they are all very likeable.

The EX00 is a quirky, funky design. The Delta is big and bold, and makes you feel like Schwarzenegger for wearing it. The 2020 is the more sensible, tough yet comfortable, and still far from mainstream.

Looking back at my wearing habits of these three, I find that the Delta was often my go-to for a quick evening excursion, the EX00 was my preferred office wear, while the 2020 became a favorite companion for long journeys and hikes.

The M-Force family might not be as tightly defined a package as, say Bambino or Mako, so there are many differences between the various generations and versions, of which there are many more besides these three. But they do share a certain philosophy, which goes beyond the formal "Three M's" and I see it as "being unapologetically different".

 

New Colors for Orient Models

As expected, Orient follows last week's announcement of new Orient Star watches with some new "Regular" Orient releases as well – although, these are all just new color versions of existing models. So, let's see what's new.

20^th Anniversary Orient Mako

So, the 20^th anniversary Mako won't be yellow after all… Orient decided to celebrate twenty years since the release of the first Mako diver differently.

The new reference RA-AA0822L (JDM ref. RA-AA0822L) features a gradient blue dial with a wave pattern, reminiscent of certain Seiko divers. The blue and black bezel is also black IP-plated, and the hands are gold-toned. The words "anniversary edition" are also printed on the dial, rather subtly in place of some of the minute markers near 4 o'clock.

Technically, the watch is identical to other current Mako references with the 41.8mm wide case. It will however cost some 20% more. Limited to 3,000 pieces (500 in Japan), it might be worth it if you're a Mako fan, like the color scheme, and love limited editions. Expected to be available in stores from April this year.

 

New Mako 40 References

The Mako 40 was previously only available in Japan in either black or white dial versions; and the global market's more lively colored variants were only available on leather straps. Now, Orient are introducing two color dial options, with steel bracelets, for the Japanese market.

Reference RN-AC0Q06V features a similar "lilac" (kind of soft, pink-purple shade) to last year's reference RA-AC0Q07V; The dial of ref. RN-AC0Q04L is referred to by Orient as "lavender", but it's actually lavender-blue, also known as periwinkle. It is a soft shade of violet-blue, and new to the collection.

Both new versions look really good against the steel case and bracelet, and both are limited to 200 pieces. Why has everything got to be limited nowadays, Orient? Anyway, these should be available to purchase early March.

 

Fresh Colors for the Contemporary Semi Skeleton

The Contemporary Semi-Skeleton collection might not be as popular as the Mako but it is definitely very uniquely Orient with its open-heart dial. While previously available references were fairly conservative, the new 2024 batch offers more vibrant colors.

·         Reference RA-AR0007S (JDM ref. RN-AR0007S) has a white dial, and gold colored case, bracelet, hands and hour markers.

·         RA-AR0008E (JDM RN-AR0008E) mixes a green dial and gold hands and markers.

·         RA-AR0009L (JDM RN-AR0009L) features a light blue dial.

·         RA-AR0010R (JDM RN-AR0010R) features a deep red dial.

These models, thankfully, are not limited. The all-gold version would cost around 380 USD; the other references would be close to 340 USD. All should be available to buy in March. 

Orient Star Kick Off 2024 With New Watches

After a cold and uneventful January, Orient finally kicks off 2024 with a bunch of new Orient Star watches – including a brand new model, and a number of new versions of existing designs.

M34 F8 Date

An entirely new watch that joins the new "M Collection" is the F8 Date. This watch features a sharp case, a nicely (and trendy) textured yet fairly clean dial, and a modern movement from the brand's most recent crop – an impressive package, with a price to match.

The steel case is 40mm wide, 47.3mm lug to lug, and 12.9 thick, with a 20mm lug width. Surface finishing of both case and bracelet includes a mix of brushing and polishing, no doubt done to a very high standard like most high-end Orient Star watches. The crystal is sapphire, front and back.

The F8N64 movement provides 60 hours of power reserve, and an accuracy of +15/-5 seconds per day. These are not standout features in the $1000+ price range today, even in Swiss watches, but given the brand's reputation for long-term reliability and having their watches typically better regulated than the stated range, there's nothing to complain about here.

Orient is presenting two versions today:

·         Reference RK-BX0001S features a white dial, and comes bundled with a grey leather strap as well; it is, rather curiously, said to be limited to 200 pieces for the Chinese market. Its global market equivalent is RE-BX0002S, which is the same but ships without the leather strap, and is limited to 160 pieces. Both should be available in March.

·         Reference RK-BX0003L features a blue dial, and comes bundled with a black leather strap. The global market equivalent is RE-BX0004L. These would be unlimited production models, but would only be available in June – presumably, due to a more complex process developed by Orient to produce the special dial color.

Prices for the F8 Date are in the 2,400 USD range – a little less for the white version, a little more for the blue dial. Like many recent Orient Star releases we see prices go up step by step; hopefully this is supported by an equal increase in quality of movement, materials and finishing. Judging from pictures and specs, this might be true.

 

Modern Skeleton

Orient is celebrating the 10^th anniversary of its familiar Modern Skeleton design, with a bunch of new versions.

·         Reference RE-AV0123G features an ivory dial with a rose gold colored bezel and crown.

·         Reference RE-AV0124G (JDM ref. RK-AV0124G) features a champagne dial with a yellow gold colored bezel and crown.

·         Reference RE-AV0125S (JDM ref. RK-AV0125S) features a silver dial.

·         Reference RE-AV0126B (JDM ref. RK-AV0126B) is all black plated: dial, bezel, case and bracelet. It is limited to 340 pieces in Japan and 260 overseas.

Other than colors, these all feature the same Modern Skeleton specs: F6F44 movement offering 50 hours power reserve and +25/-15 seconds per day accuracy, in a case that's 41mm wide, 49mm long and 12mm wide. They are priced in the 750-800 USD range.

 

M45 F7 Moon Phase

Finally, Orient also added a new version to its M45 F7 moon phase line-up. The new watch features the M45's non-skeletonized design, this time with a dark grey gradation dial set inside a black-plated case.

The three references presented are essentially the same watch: RK-AY0122N will sell at Orient's online store, with a black crocodile leather strap; RK-AY0123N will sell at Orient's prestige shops, with both the black croco and an additional cordovan strap. Global market reference RE-AY0124N will be sold with just the cordovan leather strap. These references would be limited to 60, 140, and 120 pieces, respectively.

The M45 F7 Moon Phase case is 41mm wide and 49mm long, with a 13.8mm thickness and lug width of 20mm. Prices are in the 2,300 USD range, at the current JPY to USD exchange rate.