Orient Place

Orient Place

Sunday 3 March 2024

The Chronoace and Caliber 42

In 1969 Orient ended the reign of caliber 49 and the "AAA" moniker that was associated with it, and introduced a new family of watches and movements. The "Chronoace" (also sometimes referred to as Chrono Ace) equipped with caliber 42 ushered in an era of upgraded case designs, materials and colors that would become characteristic of the brand in the 1970s.


The Movement

Caliber 42 movements were mostly exclusive to the Chronoace line, although some were used in certain other models. All caliber 42 variants were automatic with hand winding, and operated at 18,000 BPH. They all shared the main architecture and features, including the day and date discs and (with one exception) the date quick-set button at 2 o'clock.

The main members of the family were:

·         Calibers 42940, 42950, 42960, 42970 with 21, 23, 25 and 27 jewels, respectively, were the common variants used in most Chronoace models.

·         A particular variant of 42950 that did not have the quickset button – presumably to improve water resistance – used in the Orient King Diver "Depth Gauge".

·         Caliber 42925 and 42972 with 17 and 27 jewels, respectively – as far as I know, these were variants not used in "Chronoace" watches, instead running models like the early 1970s "Crystal".

·         Caliber 42990 with 33 jewels, which must have been highly exclusive as I've yet to see photos of one!


Caliber 42 continued the evolution in Orient's movement engineering. For instance, the introduction of a "fine movement" speed adjustment device, the shift to a "star wheel" type switching wheel, and the transition to a "two-story third wheel and pinion system" from the traditional "three-needle system" marked a significant step in improving the movement's efficiency and stability.


Orient Chronoace

Early Chronoace models continued in typical 1960s style of late AAA models. Such were the "College" models – so these too would soon be updated and receive smoother cases and more


Over the next few years, the Chronoace range exploded with new versions and designs, some which were already discussed on the blog, under various topics. The 1969 "Special" model, for instance, whose photo appears at the top of this article, still looks like it has taken just a small step beyond the College. Shortly afterwards, new designs appeared.

Chronoace models took on various case shapes – including oval, round, triangular, and all sorts of more complex designs. This was typical of the era, as the 1960s style morphed into the 1970s.


A significant part of that development happened in the materials department. Besides color taking a much more prominent place in dial design (a trend that already began in the late 1960s), Orient began experimenting with various new materials.

Pretty soon, Chronoace models appeared that made use of stone cases, non-scratch steel and other elements. Some Chronoace dials featured Jaguar Focus paint schemes, and later - Mexican Mother-of-Pearl.


Dive watches were an important segment of Orient's product range, and here too – caliber 42 and the Chronoace name were included.

A number of Chronoace King Diver models were presented between 1969 and 1971. Most had been variations on Orient's familiar internal bezel design. The obvious exception was the King Diver Depth Gauge, a unique watch that probably deserves a separate post.


Honestly, much more can be written about the Chronoace lineage; Indeed much has already been told of these watches in this blog, and probably more mentions will be added in the future. This post, however, should serve as a hub page for the Chronoace models.

 

The picture of the Chronoace Special that appears at the top of this post is copyright of the blog. Other pictures that appear in this post were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads. 

3 comments:

  1. As usual, thank you very much for the great blog article. But there's at least one mistake in your recherche about the 42 movement. It actually CAN be hand-wind (all of them). Maybe you did mistake that for the no hacking function.
    What du you mean when writing "the introduction of a "fine movement" speed adjustment device"? I have never recognized such a thing on one of these movements as they are not really crucial to 18.000 bph movements. Maybe there's one on the tenbeat version. That rare thing which does also belong to the 42xxx family.
    In fact for me the 42 caliber family is the most sophisticated caliber Orient has ever developed, being in one line with the 5000/7000 caliber family from Citizen and the 83xx/52xx family from Seiko (from which it is heavily inspired).

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    Replies
    1. You are right of course about the hand winding. I will fix this. Interesting what you say about the 42 being Orient's most sophisticated movement. Do you think the 46 was a step down from this?

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    2. Yes I do think the 46 was a step down from the 42, right the same way as Citizens 8200 was a step down from the 8000 and Seiko concentrating to it's 7000 movements.
      At that time the future was Quarz and the remaining mechanical movements were designed for easy assembly and low production costs.
      Seiko and Citizen built high end calibers on the layout of their 5000/7000 and 8300/5200 Caliber families. And Orient was about to do the same with the ten beat movement based on it's 42xxx layout. But it was not the time when people were ready to pay for good mechanical movements. Other than today, when Orient does dare to more than triple the price of a watch just because it has a silicone escapement rather than the regular escapement ;-)

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