I
was not ready for it, but it happened: the Orient
Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite exceeded my expectations, as high as they
already were. I mean, I often like the Orient watches that come my way, but
usually I know what to expect. Having a few high-end watches in my collection, I
usually stop short of comparing my favorite brand's products with those of the
heavyweights of the industry. This one was different.
So,
while I usually just post my review and move on, I thought I could do this timepiece justice and follow up with some comparisons to other high-end
Japanese watchmakers, possibly ones better known for their premium models.
In
my hand, pictured below, are watches that I think are worthy of admiration:
Citizen's Campanola – mechanical model, deep-red urushi dial; Grand
Seiko's iconic SBGR019; and next to the Orient is the slightly less famous
but equally fantastic Divido, by Minase.
The
first obvious comparison is Grand Seiko. The classic name that made us talk
about Zaratsu polishing and dial textures. Just as its grandparents taught the Swiss industry about accuracy back in the 1960s, it returned in the 2000s to teach the world how high watchmaking craftsmanship and fine finishing can
go.
Honestly,
the level of polishing and accuracy of details are hard to distinguish between
the Orient and the Seiko. The SBGR019 had some unique elements that aren't even
very common among other (and newer) GS models. The "beehive" pattern
on the dial is hidden until put in direct light. But then, the Meteorite dial
is always there, and always gorgeous.
Looking
at the bracelet, the Grand Seiko wins, with a design whose complexity
really produces extreme comfort. But in all fairness, most current GS watches
have lesser bracelets, and the Orient Star's bracelet will not feel
underwhelming next to any of those.
Now
the Campanola is a different story, a watch born out of a very different design
philosophy. With no interest in minimalism whatsoever, this piece boasts layers
of components, materials, and colors (and keep in mind that, as far as
Campanolas go, this is one of the more restrained models).
Different
but still comparable. The Campanola is the more expensive of the bunch,
boasting the most amount of handcrafted effort and a Swiss movement with
big-date complication. It is exceptionally eye-catching, and its dial also shines in the light, extremely so.
While
there's no denying the unique flair of Citizen's premier model, even here the
Orient does not look like it would be out of place in the same watch box. Yes, the
hand-painted dial of the Campanola is a winner, but it wins even when pitted
against watches costing ten times or more.
The
Divido sits somewhere in between its bigger brothers. Featuring fine Zaratsu
polishing like the Grand Seiko and complex, precise construction like the
Campanola, it actually costs less than both (and roughly the same as the Orient
Star) and is really a kind of hidden gem among Japanese manufacturers.
Minase
takes pride in the Divido bracelet, which feels lighter than the Orient's and
Seiko's. It is highly comfortable, and is well adjusted to the watch, which also has a very light and "roomy" case-in-case construction. Again, the Orient Star bracelet does not pale in comparison; rather, it seems chunkier – more appropriate for the M34 case.
This
post mainly focuses on looks and craftsmanship, rather than movements and
accuracy. I would not compare movements between watches of different ages that were never serviced; as of now, the Orient Star is the most accurate watch I have ever handled more than briefly, keeping about a second a week, albeit with a noticeable difference between rest and wrist-time. The Campanola is a close
second, with its fancy (and nicely decorated) La Joux-Perret movement. The
Divido and Grand Seiko are accurate enough, both gaining a few seconds per day.
There
is no "bottom line" here; these are four fantastic watches, and I
just loved to see the Orient Star feel at home among them. It's closer in
spirit to the Grand Seiko, the latter obviously serving as inspiration and
perhaps – target.
