"New Orient" and the First Orient Star

When discussing Orient's early history, two watches stand out. The first is the New Orient, introduced in 1950. The second is the Orient Star, introduced a year later. Together, these watches marked the beginning of the modern Orient Company and established themes that would remain visible throughout much of the brand's history.

Although the company that launched the New Orient was formed in 1950, its roots stretched back much further. Shogoro Yoshida opened a watch shop in Ueno in 1901, a bustling commercial district in eastern Tokyo, and gradually expanded into manufacturing. By the 1930s, production had moved to a factory in Hino, west of central Tokyo, where watches were produced under the Toyo Tokei name.

The war and the difficult years that followed eventually led to the closure of the company in 1949, but the Hino factory itself remained. In July 1950, production resumed under a newly established company called Tama Keiki.

The first watch produced by the new company was the New Orient. It was a simple hand-wound watch with a small seconds display, and by modern standards there was little about it that would attract much attention. Its importance lies elsewhere. The New Orient demonstrated that watch production at Hino could continue and that the newly formed company once again had a product to bring to market.

The watch appears to have been successful enough to influence the company's future direction. In 1951, Tama Keiki adopted the name Orient Watch Co., Ltd., effectively taking its identity from the watch that had relaunched the business. The same year also saw the introduction of the Orient Star, a model positioned above the New Orient and intended to represent the company's higher-end offering. More than seventy years later, Orient Star remains one of the few names from Orient's earliest years that is still in active use.

The movement story also appears relatively straightforward. The New Orient was based on a pre-war movement that allowed the newly restarted company to resume production quickly and efficiently. It therefore seems likely that the first Orient Star continued to use the same basic caliber, perhaps with minor refinements appropriate for a higher-end model.

During the following years, Orient gradually improved the movement before eventually unveiling the T-S caliber in 1955 – the first movement developed entirely by the new company. This period also coincided with the arrival of Tamotsu Aoki, a Professor Emeritus of the University of Tokyo and a leading figure in Japanese horology, whose influence likely helped shape the company's growing focus on technical quality and movement development. Rather than pursuing frequent redesigns, Orient appears to have focused on refining a proven foundation while rebuilding its business.

Collectors may notice that both the New Orient and the first Orient Star carried the word "Chronometer" on their dials. While impressive, the designation should be viewed in the context of its era. These were not certified chronometers by modern standards; however, in those early days, the term Chronometer itself was loosely defined, and was often used simply to indicate a premium watch. Later in the 1950s, the terminology became clearer and Orient would no longer use it.

The New Orient and the first Orient Star established two ideas that would remain visible throughout the decades that followed. The New Orient provided the foundation on which the company could rebuild, while the Orient Star established the concept of a premium offering sitting above the standard range. Both themes would reappear repeatedly in later collections, from Royal Orient to the modern Orient Star line.

 

Photos were taken from various old Orient publications and sale ads.