Orient Place

Orient Place

Thursday, 21 August 2025

More Limited Editions for August 2025


Orient is following up on the earlier announcement of the new Stretto model, with a few more limited editions of familiar watches.

 

Orient Star

Here's a combo Orient loves: delivering their semi-skeleton trio with a new color. They did it in 2022 and 2024 (skipped 2023 in favor of announcing the "M-Collection"). It went well then, so here goes one more, this time with blue-grey gradation dials. Combined with the stainless steel cases and bracelets, Orient Star fine finishing and no gold or other flashy components, the result is very solid, mature- looking and versatile.


The references are RE-AV0132L modern skeleton, limited to 1,000 pieces; RE-AT0021L semi skeleton, limited to 900; and RE-ND0022L ladies' classic semi skeleton, of which only 600 will be made. While limited, these watches are not designated as "75th anniversary models" and do not get the anniversary packaging.

 

"Revival" World Map

Orient's original 1969 World Map diver was a real gem, which is nowadays a highly collectible rarity. The "revival" edition from 2021 was equally desirable (though not nearly as expensive) and the limited production was probably sold out rather quickly. So, it only makes sense for Orient to deliver another run of this iconic watch for its 75th anniversary.  

The new version, ref. RA-AA0E08Y, differs from the previous version slightly but noticeably. It borrows the golden bezel and crowns from the ivory dial reference RA-AA0E01S, and features the vintage-style cursive font for the Orient logo and other text, on both dial and case back. Note the 1969 version actually had the modern logo on the dial…

The new world map model has the anniversary packaging and is limited to 1,500 units. Prices were not announced, but they will probably be similar to the previous world map edition, and the Orient Star models' prices will likewise probably be similar to their familiar base models.


 

Orient Announces a New Model: Stretto


August is a good month for new watch announcements, and this year is no exception: Orient just announced a new model name, complete with its own new family of automatic and solar versions.

The Stretto joins the "contemporary" branch of the brand's portfolio, and as such it features  a modern design, with sharp lines and very "technical" dials, despite the use of Orient's vintage font on the limited editions.

 


Stretto Date

The "Stretto Date" will probably be the core of the family. This model uses Orient's familiar F6722 automatic movement to present the time and date, wrapped in a 38.5mm wide case. With the 45.5mm lug-to-lug dimension, 11.2mm thickness and 20mm lug width, it's a very practical size that should work for a majority of potential buyers.

The model also features sapphire as the front crystal, and mineral for the exhibition caseback. All versions are water resistant to 50m, or 5 bar.

Four references are on offer at launch:

·         RA-AC0R01S with a silver dial and gold elements (bezel, markers, crowns and more), bundled with a steel bracelet.

·         RA-AC0R02L with a blue dial, and a steel bracelet.

·         RA-AC0R03Y with a brown dial, golden bezel, and a brown leather strap.

·         RA-AC0R04N is a limited edition of 2900 units, featuring a sunburst grey dial, an orange second hand, and Orient's cursive logo.


Semi-Skeleton and Day & Night

Orient further announced two more elaborate versions of the Stretto, each presented as a single "75th anniversary" limited edition reference. Both feature the increasingly popular cursive logo.

The Day and Night model, ref. RA-AK0311N, is limited to 2,500 units. It uses caliber F6B24, similar to Orient's older Sun and Moon watches. Case dimensions are 48mm length, 41.5mm width and 13mm thickness, and it's attached to a 22mm wide steel bracelet. And yes, it is interesting that Orient calls it "Day and Night" rather than "Sun and Moon" – possibly, to avoid confusion with the brand's Moonphase watches.

The Semi-Skeleton model, ref. RA-AR0012N, is limited to 2,800 unit. This ones uses caliber F6S22, another familiar movement, and its case is 40.8mm wide, 48mm long and only 10.9mm thick.

 


Stretto Solar

In addition to the automatic models, Orient also announced a line of Solar-powered references, clearly designed as women's watches. They are 32.1mm wide, 39mm lug-to-lug and 7.1mm thick. Lug width is 16mm and the crystal is sapphire.

Five references are presented, none limited:

·         RA-WG0601S is a two-tone model, combining steel/silver and gold throughout the case, dial and bracelet.               

·         RA-WG0602L features a blue dial and steel bracelet.

·         RA-WG0603R features a brown dial and steel bracelet.

·         RA-WG0604S with a more glitzy dial, featuring sparkling markers and elements, golden bezel, and a brown leather strap.

·         RA-WG0605L with similarly sparkling elements on a blue dial, and a (non-matching…) black strap.


We're looking forward to seeing these Stretto watches in real life, so we can judge their quality and value for money.

Sunday, 3 August 2025

The Super Auto Perfect Self-Winding, Orient's First Automatic Watch


In 1961, Orient took its first step into the world of automatic watches with the release of the Super Auto Perfect Self-Winding. This historic timepiece marked Orient's entry into the competitive automatic watch market, setting the stage for future innovations.

At the time, Seiko had already introduced their first automatic watch, the Seiko 11A Indicator, in 1955, followed by the 290 series soon after. Citizen also joined the automatic revolution with their 3KA movement in 1958. These early automatic models paved the way for a new era of Japanese watchmaking (never mind that far across the ocean, Swiss brands were already 3 decades into automatics).


At the heart of the Super Auto was a movement that took inspiration from some of the finest automatic winding systems of its era. Based on Orient's high-grade Royal Orient hand-wound N-Type movement, the Super Auto introduced an efficient automatic winding mechanism, featuring a heart cam and a sickle-shaped winding lever.

Interestingly, watch enthusiasts have drawn parallels between this mechanism and IWC's famed Pellaton winding system, noting striking similarities in design and function. This observation suggests that Orient engineers were influenced by the best automatic winding technology available at the time, integrating it into their own movement to create a robust and efficient system.


The Orient "Super Auto" featured an understated aesthetic, characteristic of the early 1960s and not unlike other Orient models of that period; the brand did not go to great lengths to produce a design that would emphasize the revolution inside. Such are the cursive dial text, along with the simple dotted indices of the first version (case marked H72084). The dauphine hands, coated with luminous material, provide excellent readability, further enhancing the watch's utility.

A second version of the Super Auto (marked F91040) presented a somewhat fancier dial design, with a more elaborate, fluted hour track.


Despite the subtle design and new movement, the Super Auto was intended to be a practical and durable watch. The movement's 21-jewel configuration provided reliable performance, while the 6.4mm thick movement (2.2mm thicker than the base N-Type caliber) allowed for a relatively slim profile compared to competing automatic watches of the era. The 37.7mm case size, considered large for its time, offers a balanced presence on the wrist, while the deep silver sunburst dial enhances its sophisticated appeal.

The Super Auto was available in both waterproof and non-waterproof versions, with model variations such as the "Swimmer" and "Showerproof" lines, ensuring versatility for different lifestyles. Case materials included stainless steel (SS) and gold-filled (OGF) options, each featuring the proud engraving of "Perfect Self-Winding" on the case back.


The success of the Super Auto laid the groundwork for future Orient automatic watches. In 1962, Orient leveraged the same automatic winding system when introducing the LCW caliber, combining the self-winding mechanism with the new L-type movement. This decision cemented the Super Auto’s influence on Orient’s evolving lineup of automatic timepieces.

Furthermore, the automatic winding system from the Super Auto was later utilized in notable models such as the Grand Prix Almighty (64-jewel) and the 100-jewel models released in 1963 and 1964. These watches carried forward the Super Auto's legacy while refining and improving upon its innovations.


Today, the Orient Super Auto Perfect Self-Winding remains a sought-after piece among collectors and enthusiasts. Its unique blend of classic design, historical significance, and technical ingenuity make it a valuable addition to any collection of vintage Orient watches.

At launch, the Orient Super Auto was positioned as a premium timepiece. Over six decades later, its importance in Orient’s history remains undeniable, yet its price today is surprisingly modest. Typically selling for around 300 USD in decent condition, it seems a fair price to pay for a wearable piece of horological history.

And about that name – "Super Auto Perfect Self-Winding" might sound like a bit of overkill, but it’s got charm. It’s as if Orient’s engineers wanted to make absolutely sure you knew the watch was automatic, self-winding, and, of course, perfect and super. If redundancy is a sin, at least it’s committed with flair here.



Pictures of the Super Auto that appear in this post were taken from the 1999 Orient Watch Catalog book, and from various sales ads.

Thursday, 3 July 2025

Orient's Pocket Watches


Pocket watches emerged in the early 16th century, when portable timekeeping was first made possible by compact spring-driven mechanisms. Initially worn as pendants, these early watches were both rare and ornate - more symbols of status than reliable instruments. As craftsmanship improved, so did accuracy and design, and by the 17th century, pocket watches had become flatter and rounder, allowing them to slip more easily into waistcoat pockets - a style shift that coincided with changes in men’s clothing, particularly the rise of the three-piece suit.

Through the 18th and 19th centuries, pocket watches evolved into essential daily tools. They were refined with complications, robust cases, and eventually standardized movements that made them vital not just for gentlemen but for railway conductors, military officers, and professionals across fields. This golden age continued until the early 20th century, when wristwatches - initially a novelty and often considered too delicate or feminine for men - gained prominence during and after World War I, eventually replacing the pocket watch in everyday use.


Today, the pocket watch seems to be enjoying a quiet return, not as a utilitarian object but as a fashion statement. On recent red carpets, particularly high-profile events like the Met Gala, celebrities such as Jenna Ortega and Leon Bridges were seen wearing pocket watches, in a pretty extravagant manner, and in great stylistic sync with one another. A good excuse, then, to talk about Orient's pocket watches!

And indeed, throughout the years, Orient has played with the concept of a pendant or pocket watch a few times. Earliest examples were included with the Orient Star Dynamic line, in the late 1950s.


Both the round version and the triangular one (which was also discussed before on the blog) were pretty uncommon releases at the time, and probably produced in very small numbers. Hence, sample of these are near impossible to find nowadays.

With the brand's focus on wristwatches, it took years – in fact, decades – before considering pocket-watch format again. Indeed I've seen some odd picture of an "AAA 21 Jewel" pocket watch but that looked so out of place I am almost certain it was a re-casing of an old wristwatch. But the next familiar pocket-watch releases I am confident with, were quartz models produced in the 1980s.


All examples I saw of these items were gold-toned, and quite minimalist in design. They seem to have been mainly aimed at female buyers, to be worn as pendants.

Again it took some time before Orient returned to making a pocket watch. Around 2002 the brand released Orient Star Royal reference WZ0041EG, a truly fine piece in the brand's highest standards of watchmaking at the time. Hand-wound caliber 48A40 ensured an accuracy of +10,-5 seconds per day and 50 hours of power reserve.


A few years had passed and Orient Star Royal became "Royal Orient". Some of the older models were discontinued, but the pocket piece was among the lucky few to get rebranded, and so – we got reference WE0041EG, essentially the same watch but arguably carrying the nicer logo.

Note that these models, despite being of a much higher quality (and price point) than their quartz predecessors, were only produced in Stainless Steel – and I feel the subtle elegance of these was indeed much better suited for the pocket watch concept than the gold paint of the quartz.


Orient's last batch of pocket watches was produced in the early 2010s. These weren't Royal or Star but "regular" models, yet they were quite nicely designed and made. These included WV0011DD and WV0031DD pictured above, and WV0021DD shown below.

The earlier references with Arabic numerals were introduced in 2010, and made use of the then-new caliber 48C40, a downgraded version of the Royal 48A40, having simpler decoration and reduced accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day. The last version, having the Roman numerals, was added in 2013. That was Orient's last pocket watch, at least for now.


 

Photos were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads, except the "celebrities" photo taken from GQ magazine.