Orient's Titanium Watches

Titanium has become a popular material for watch cases due to its unique properties. It was first introduced by Citizen in the 1970s, a pioneering move that opened the door for its use in both luxury and entry-level watches. Since then, many watchmakers have adopted titanium as an alternative to traditional materials like stainless steel.

One of titanium's key advantages is its excellent strength-to-weight ratio. It’s about 45% lighter than steel while being just as strong, making it comfortable to wear for extended periods. Titanium is also highly resistant to corrosion, which is particularly beneficial for those who wear their watches in harsh environments, such as saltwater or humid conditions.

In terms of hardness, titanium is generally softer than stainless steel, which makes it more prone to scratching. However, newer technologies like surface-hardening treatments have addressed this issue by making titanium surfaces much more durable.

From a manufacturing standpoint, titanium presents unique challenges compared to steel. While it has a lower surface hardness, meaning it can scratch more easily than steel, titanium is actually tougher in terms of resistance to bending and deformation. This toughness makes it more difficult to machine, cut, or mold into shape. Its lower malleability means that specialized tools and techniques are required to work with it, especially when forming intricate designs or achieving precise finishes.

Polishing titanium is also more complex, as the material’s natural dullness doesn’t easily achieve the same level of shine as steel. However, the unique matte or brushed finish that titanium often has is part of its appeal, giving watches a modern, understated look.

Despite the challenges in manufacturing, the combination of lightweight comfort, durability, and a sleek aesthetic makes titanium a popular choice in watchmaking. Following in Citizen's footsteps, the major Japanese watch brands adopted titanium for their cases, Seiko and Orient included. Let’s explore some notable examples of Orient watches that feature titanium cases.

The earliest Orient to use titanium as the base material for its case and bracelet was the first generation M-Force, the EX00 model introduced in 1997. That was already a very special design, and producing it in unpolished, grey, almost gunmetal-looking titanium must have added much to its uniqueness.

From that point on, titanium models would continue to pop up among Orient's releases, albeit in a fairly random manner and not in prevailing in any long-going lineage. For example, there was the occasional titanium M-Force, despite most M-Force models getting steel cases.

These included the relatively well-known titanium beast, reference WV0011DV (or WV0021DV with the yellow minute track), introduced in 2013. But there was also the much less known, almost mysterious M-Force ref. CFD04001/2 – one of those releases that made me think that some Orients actually got their "M-Force" badge by mistake…

Some other sports models besides the M-Force also received their titanium cases. For instance, there was a whole range of titanium watches that emerged in the late 1990s (and featured a very distinct "nineties" look). And later came the Orient "Slide-rule" design – a pretty nice model actually.

Of course, it wasn't just M-Force, or sports models in general. Orient did introduce a number of dressy titanium models too.

Take a look at these two watches, for instance. I'm not sure of their price point at the time of production — probably a step or two above the entry-level models, with a textured dial and sapphire glass. It is odd, though, that a titanium watch was offered on a leather strap — I might be wrong, but every other titanium Orient I came across had a metal bracelet.

                          

Titanium usage on Orient Stars was (and still is) rare, possibly as achieving the high-end sub-brand's shiny finish is harder with this metal. But there are exceptions.

The first exception was the 2015 Orient Star Titanium, which was presented in 5 versions -  ref. WZ0011AF (with a grey dial), WZ0021AF (blue), WZ0031AF (white), WZ0041AF (special edition of white dial and gold markers), and WZ0051AF (black dial).

It is interesting to note that this titanium model got a movement unique to it—caliber F6N42. This movement is similar to F6N43 (which is used in the current Outdoor and Basic Date models) but has only 40 hours of power reserve instead of 50 in the newer movement.

We'll conclude this review with the 1964 diver, the latest Orient watch to get a titanium case. Notably, it's also the only Orient model that has ever been offered in both steel and titanium, for the consumer to choose.

This allows us to compare the weights of both versions easily: according to the manufacturer, the steel model weighs 175g, while the titanium watch only weighs 113g. And here's a simple math question for you: How much does the part of the watch that doesn't change (movement, sapphire, etc.) weigh?

 

The pictures of the EX00 M-Force that appear in this post are copyright of the blog. Other pictures that appear in this post were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads. 

The "Mystery" Olympia Calendar

Orient first introduced its Olympia series in 1961, along with the L-type movement. Incidentally this was the same year the Zodiac watch company, then still a Swiss brand, launched its Olympos watch, famous for its unusual manta ray-shaped case.

Despite the simultaneity of the events and similarity of names, the first Orient Olympia had a perfectly normal round case, and bore no resemblance to the Zodiac watch. The names too were probably only inadvertently related – Olympos being an alternative spelling for Olympus (as in the name of the mountain, or the home of the Greek gods) whereas Olympia more likely was chosen in preparation for the upcoming 1964 Olympics in Japan.

And yet, despite all of the above, in 1963 Orient went ahead and presented a version of the Olympia Calendar watch shaped like the Zodiac's manta ray. Indeed the case shape was upside down, with the shorter sides of the case pointing downward instead of up (as in the Swiss model) and the crown placed at 4 instead of 2, but the source of inspiration for the design was clear.

Original or not, the unusual design became a classic of sorts, and appeared on both Orient's 60^th anniversary commemorative book and the 1999 Orient Watch Catalog book. You already know, that is the sort of vintage piece I got to get my hands on, and that's exactly what I did.

This model differs very slightly from the model pictured in those books, in the shape of the "hour hand", but it is the same in all other respects. And I'm putting "hand" between parentheses as this is not really a hand but rather a revolving hour disc. Yes, this is one of Orient's Mystery Dials I wrote about a few weeks ago.

Other than the disc, the rest of the dial seems fairly normal, with standard minute and seconds hands. Keep in mind, the quicker the hand, the greater the effort for the movement if it needs to push a heavy disc instead of a thin, light hand. Rotating an hour disc was fairly easy, but for minutes and seconds, normal hands were a must.

This watch is powered by the same hand-winding LC caliber as other Olympia Calendar models, like this Swimmer or this Speed Data (or Dater). Despite the age and the "mystery" configuration it is perfectly easy to maintain. The watch was not working well when I received it, so I had my local watchmaker fix it. He did it quickly and the watch is now healthy, winds and keeps very accurate time.

Now, reading the time might be a bit confusing at first, as the eye automatically searches for the larger hand it sees, and one may initially confuse the minute to be the hour. In this aspect, I guess the other design – with the more prominent arrow, as shown in the old book – might be better. But once you get used to it, reading the time is easy, and legibility is quite good. Especially with those large shiny markers at 12 and 6.

This case shape offers a unique aesthetic, which makes it a conversation piece – in fact, two colleagues who usually don't comment on my (or any) watches, complimented me on this watch as I wore it to work. But it is more than just about being different.

The typical case diameter for a dress watch at the time was around 36mm. Which is lovely but a little small for my wrist. The manta-ray case imposes a larger diameter – here it's 39mm at the widest point (which also acts as a crown guard of sorts), despite the bezel only measuring 35mm.

The shape also affects the lugs, which – flowing naturally from the sides of the case – are also thicker than normal dress watch lugs. All in all, the watch manages to maintain a more substantial wrist presence compared to simpler round cases that would use the same movement. It's not bulky or anything – on the contrary, the watch is very elegant – it just looks better.

Other dimensions are a total length of merely 40.5mm lug to lug, and just a tad over 10mm in thickness. Indeed, despite the enhanced wrist presence it is still a sleek dress watch that would easily hide under your cuffs.

As such, it is also super light and wearable. As I bought it without a strap, I attached this special blue calf leather band from "Strap Geeks" and I think it works well! The gold and blue combo is somewhat unusual but suits this equally unusual watch nicely. And this strap is really good quality for the price and has a very pleasant feel and texture.

This really is a watch that stood the test of time. It looks a bit quirky today, but probably no more than it did when it was released, about 60 years ago. The movement is robust, and the case is well finished. It is gold-filled, a more durable technique than simple plating, and indeed it still looks marvelous. Those colleagues who noticed it? They were quite astounded to hear how old it is (about both their ages combined).

Getting your hands on one of these, today, would take a while as this particular shape of Olympia Calendar does not go on sale often. I would estimate possibly once every 6 months on the more globally reachable channels – and maybe a little more if you have access to local shops in Japan. However when they do pop up they're not extremely expensive. So far, the few I've come across in recent years, up to including the one I just bought, were in the range of 400 – 700 USD. Definitely worth the hunt!

New Orient Bambinos and Solar Makos

Orient has announced a few new watches today, expanding its range of solar models and adding more members to the Bambino 38 family.

 

Solar Powered Mako

It appears as though Orient has put more emphasis on solar-powered models recently. It makes sense that many buyers of watches in the lower end of the price range are looking to get more practicality for their money, and a decent solar powered movement can deliver just that, with both quartz accuracy and not having to replace batteries often.

So, with this in mind, Orient are presenting a bunch of watches combining their "diver design" (aka Mako) with their solar movement. This movement features a -20/+20 seconds per month accuracy, and about 12 months of power reserve on full charge.

Five references are being presented – of which four are in global distribution:

·         RA-WJ0001E (RN-WJ0001E in Japan) with a green dial

·         RA-WJ0002L (RN-WJ0002L) with a blue dial

·         RA-WJ0003S (RN-WJ0003S) with an ivory dial

·         RA-WJ0004Y (RN-WJ0004Y) with a brown dial

·         RN-WJ0005L (Japan only model) with a light-blue dial

Interestingly, these new models combine the case size of the Mako 40 with the dial design – including markers and hands – of the more classic Mako II (42 mm). Like their mechanical siblings, the solar versions feature a sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, and 200m water resistance. They are about 10% cheaper than the mechanical Mako 42 (which itself costs a little less than the Mako 40).

 

Bambino 38

Orient have also just added a couple of new references of the Bambino 38mm model, which now has more color options than the original Bambino case.

Five references are being presented – of which four are in global distribution:

·         RA-AC0M14L (RN-AC0M14L in Japan) with a light-blue dial, limited to 6,500 pieces (of which 50 are in Japan)

·         RA-AC0M15Y (RN-AC0M15Y in Japan) with a copper-colored dial, limited to 2,500 (of which 50 are in Japan)

Both models are bundled with a leather strap, and are generally similar to the existing models in the Bambino 38 range.

Orient Star Modern Skeleton Hands-on Review

A few weeks ago, I wrote here about the history of the Modern Skeleton, one of Orient Star's longest-running designs (ten years now and counting). Now the time has come for a hands-on review of this model.

The watch I received on loan for this review, courtesy of Orient Europe, was reference RE-AV0124G, which is identical to the JDM version RK-AV0124G: a classic example of the Modern Skeleton, with a champagne dial, yellow-gold bezel and markers, and a steel bracelet.

So, without further ado, let's get to work…

How It Looks

The first word that comes to mind when seeing the Modern Skeleton for the first time is "Sharp". It really does look sharp. Orient's "contemporary-style" case looks finely cut and delicately finished, as does the stainless steel bracelet. The dial, even before diving into the details that make it up, looks crisp. The overall impression is just what one would want to have in this type of watch, and probably what Orient had in mind: elegance, in modern guise.

The Orient Star case is well proportioned, being 41mm wide, 49mm lug to lug, and 12mm thick. The lug width is 21mm; the odd width might not be the most popular among buyers who look for replacement straps (although there are really plenty of 21mm options out there). But for a watch that comes on a bracelet, this is hardly a consideration. What's important is that this helps the lugs and bracelet flow naturally and nicely from the case.

Looking more closely at the dial, there are plenty of details that need to be noticed and appreciated. The lovely three-dimensional markers, gold-colored in this version, stand out with their pronounced polishing and fluted top surface. They are complemented by other fluted elements, like the power reserve gauge and the ring around the balance wheel window.

The hands are just as nice. The hour and minute hands are polished along the sides, with brushing along the middle – except where lume paint has been applied. The small seconds hand is delicate, hovering above the circular pattern of the sub-dial.

The watch showcases Orient's expertise in putting together complicated dials with seemingly disconnected elements that still, somehow, work. The cut-out on the power reserve sub-dial seems to have no purpose but it mirrors the (similarly purposeless) cut-out at the bottom of the dial. Likewise, the cut-out at 2 o'clock does not really exhibit any movement component of particular interest – and yet, the dial would be out of balance without it.

Of course, proponents of clean, simple dials would not approve of this sort of watch, and they will have plenty of reasons to their support. But then, this (like any semi-skeleton watch) is not for them. If you do like a dial that exposes a bit of the backstage action, the Modern Skeleton presents an improbably well-balanced face with a sparkle.

There was only one small flaw in the execution of this watch that bugged me, although it took me a while to put my finger on it. It's petty, really: viewed from above, it's perfect: the dial, case and bracelet, all look great as described. From the side, however, the case still looks excellent – even better, in fact, as this perspective reveals its flowing shape and sloped lugs. What bothered me was the smooth sides of the bracelet links.

I had to check other watches I had where I found the bracelets to be attractive, and indeed – where the side of the case was brushed (as it is in the Modern Skeleton), the bracelet links were also brushed on the side. The more expensive ones were even chamfered. Here, the simple polishing of the sides of the bracelet just does not match the sharp appearance of the bracelet when viewed from the front.

How It Wears

Petty grievances aside, the bracelet is good, solid, and comfortable. It tapers from 21mm down to 18mm. The buckle is the standard Orient Star crop, milled triple-folding clasp.

The Modern Skeleton weighs 154g on the bracelet, which is a sort of sweet spot heft: present but not burdening. It is also quite well-balanced. I wore my loan watch fairly loose, as I did not want to remove too many links from it – and it remained nice and even on the wrist.

References that come with a leather band weigh just 89g, which is likely to require a tight fit to avoid the case dangling like a pendulum. So I'm pretty sure the steel bracelet is a smart choice for this model.

By the way, this watch is 2mm thinner than the Layered Skeleton. Presumably, because that had more layers. I do think thinner is better in this case, and when winter finally arrives, the Modern Skeleton will be easier to wear under long sleeves and jackets.

How It Functions

The Modern Skeleton is powered by Orient's in-house, automatic caliber F6F44. This mechanism, which has been around for quite a few years now, is a robust and fairly simple time-only (and power reserve) movement, offering 50 hours on full "charge" and, officially, an accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day. The sample I received did +8 seconds, which is just fine out of the box.

Using the movement is just as fine – the crown isn't very large but it's grippy. It does not screw in, so you just wind the thing, pull it out to set the time. A very simple affair, the movement does its job as it should. No complaints here.

Legibility is good enough, certainly as good as you can expect in a semi-skeleton watch. Which means, don't expect dive-watch levels of "see it in the dark from a mile away", but the hands are easy to discern in any position, whether over the dial or when hovering above an exposed piece of underpinning.

The little smidges of lume aren't going to provide any long-lasting night vision; the thin stripes on the hands and dots around the hour track would allow you to check the time a moment after you entered a dark room.

Practicality is also decent. The front crystal is sapphire (while the back isn't), and the water resistance is 10 bar (100 meters). By design this is not a tool watch, and it is the sort of watch that really shouldn't have to ensure much beating. Keep it clean and shiny, but know it will be okay with the occasional splash of water or accidental bump against the door knob (ouch!)

 

The Bottom Line

The range of Orient Star Semi- and full skeletons spans a fairly broad price bracket, currently around 500 – 2,500 USD. Within this range, the Modern Skeleton sits comfortably closer to the entry-level at around 800-1,000 USD. The higher range is mostly occupied by models utilizing newer movements like the F7 and F8.

Honestly, I feel quite content with the "old" F6. Using a proven movement inside a proven design, Orient delivers with its Modern Skeleton a stylish and reliable watch at a decent price. That is really the sort of value-for-money one expects Orient Stars to offer.

The Modern Skeleton is a very likable watch. It looks good (from most angles it looks fantastic). It wears well – it did on my 7.25" wrist and should be equally suitable for 6.5" wrists – I reckon it can work on even smaller wrists but trying before buying would be strongly advised.

There are numerous dial colors to choose from, most of which look good – although I must admit I doubt the all-black version (RE-AV0126B) suits the true style of this design. Keep in mind there's also the Layered Skeleton to consider, costing about the same – but I personally, and completely subjectively, liked the Modern Skeleton better. I think the simpler (though not subtler) design works best.

 

The blog would like to thank Orient – Epson Europe for providing us this Orient Star Modern Skeleton watch for review.