The Dangerous Curves of The M-Force EX0D

Adding a new M-Force to the collection is always a festive event, and even more so when it's a beast as rare and unique as the 1998 EX0D. A recent acquisition, the review of this piece is a great way to kick off 2025.

The M-Force family has always stood out among Orient's product lines. Whereas the brand was never shy of releasing quirky-looking watches, sport and dive watches are usually fairly conservative, following strict rules that naturally follow their functional and visual requirements. M-Force models, however, follow their own rules; While most watchmakers struggle to come up with any truly original designs that don't look like another Rolex Sub homage, Orient seems to just keep churning out different designs with every new generation and variation of the M-Force.

And yet, the EX0D is a bit unusual even among fellow M-Force models. Internally, it is similar to the EX00, both powered by caliber 46G: a simple automatic movement that does not offer hand-winding or second-hand hacking, but does offer reliability and robustness. Therein ends the similarity to its predecessor.

The EX0D boasts a flowing integrated bracelet design. I find that it very successfully blends organic, smooth lines with sharp angles and an overall chunkiness that adds visual heft to a not-so-hefty watch: it is, in fact, smaller than the EX00, and with a 39mm width (excluding the crown guard) and 47mm lug-to-lug it is one of the smallest M-Force models.

What it lacks in size, this watch more than compensates for in character. Most obvious is the curved, asymmetrical sapphire crystal that covers the dial. With a height difference of nearly 22mm between its center and lowest point, stretching over a mere 16mm radius, it's the most prominent curvature I've come across in a sapphire crystal. And, of course, that "bite" that's been taken off the lower right corner makes it more unique – and practically impossible to replace, so better take good care of it.

The matching bezel, similarly curved and bitten off, further emphasizes the crystal's shape. It's one of only three or four versions of M-Force that did not feature a rotating bezel of any sort. It's also the only one I know of that has the model name etched on it outside of the dial.

The dial itself is relatively simple: rectangular hour and minute hands and rectangular hour markers. The standard power reserve indicator. No lume, whatsoever (possibly the only M-Force without even minimal lume). Well, as you probably already figured out, this M-Force is not for diving, not even in theory. This is purely to show off your unique taste in watches.

The dial color here changes quite a lot, from warm silver to almost champagne, depending on which angle you're viewing it – not only because of the metallic painting but also because of the reflective nature of the crystal.

The EX0D actually featured four separate references – there was this one, with the silver(ish) dial and golden elements, as well as silver without golden elements. And there were also versions with a black dial, and either silver or gold elements.

These "elements" would include not just the hands and markers but also the screw-in crown – used to set the time – and the pusher, which is used to set the date. The coating on the small curved surface at the center of each link is also a detail so subtle you'd be forgiven for not immediately noticing it, even when holding the watch in your hands. It's definitely a much more restrained execution of "two-tone" than in, say, the older EX00.

The wearing experience is very positive, thanks to the modest dimensions. A thickness of 15.5mm at the top of the crystal is not insignificant, though, and while the sturdy bracelet keeps it comfortably balanced on the wrist, it is still quite the lump. If you are the sort of person who tends to knock such bulging watches against doorknobs, take extra care – did we mention you don't want to have to replace this crystal…?

But all these petty complaints are truly unimportant when judging a watch like this. For a true Orient collector, or just about anyone looking for unorthodox watch designs, the EX0D is a real gem: rare, quirky, yet an absolutely practical everyday watch.

Happy New Year – 2025!

2024 is almost over, and as always, it's time for the blog's year wrap-up.

Looking back at the year in watches in general, and for Orient in particular, one must admit that in much the same fashion as 2023, 2024 was far from exciting. Is it because of smartwatches, or the economy, or something else? I'm not sure, but the entire industry (with the exception of certain micro-brands) seems to take steps as prudent and conservative as a Netflix board meeting deciding on the next season.

Nevertheless, let's look at what Orient did this year, and see who goes on the podium of my (completely subjective) vote for best releases of 2024.

In third place, it's the Bambino 38 on a bracelet. Yes, hardly a revolution, not even a new model per se, but the combination of the smaller version of this classic dress watch with a steel bracelet made it more sporty and practical, almost toolish. Just another small step for this long-going line of models, then, but a good one.

In the second place, I put another new variant of the Bambino, again in the new and improved 38mm size – this time, the small-seconds model. The new design is more compact, offering a dial that's both functional and interesting – especially that lovely "tuxedo" version. Again, nothing breathtaking or that we have not seen before; but a decent evolution that seems to be in line with consumers' expectations.

Top place on the podium belongs to the only release of 2024 that stood out from the crop, attempting to offer something new – and perhaps, for the first time since the demise of the Royal Orient brand, daring to look Grand Seiko in the eye.

With the M34 F8, Date Orient took its top, most modern caliber family – the F8 – added a date disk and a trendy textured dial, packaged them in a sharply polished case, and presented a very attractive watch. Had it been Swiss, we would have said it's properly priced as an entry-level luxury watch; being an Orient, it still needs to prove its value to potential buyers. But objectively speaking, there's no doubt this is one very captivating Orient Star.

Anyway, when new releases are either too expensive or too mundane, one can always turn to the good old stuff, and that's what I did. I added only three Orients to my collection this year, but each is quite unique!

There was that sporty 2007 Orient Star, which I fondly referred to as the Orient "Alpinist". I liked its peculiar features from day one, and I have to say that after almost a year of ownership, it proves to be a very wearable, go-to watch when looking for something sporty but on leather rather than steel or rubber.

The 1963 Olympia Calendar with its unique manta-ray case and "mystery" dial is a real standout acquisition. The shape, the quality, the rarity – it's a beautiful piece and I would love to see Orient do something similar today! And why not? After all, Zodiac are proudly selling their Olympos re-issue…

The latest purchase is the 1998 EX0D M-Force. This one is remarkable even among fellow M-Forces, a generally non-conformist lineage of watches. I'll be posting the full review of this piece in January – a worthy start to the new year.

Now, we're looking forward to 2025. Hopefully, a more peaceful year for everyone, everywhere, and one where more of us can spend more time with the unimportant things in life, such as watches – and maybe thus get our favorite watchmakers to return to innovation, not only at the high end of the catalog but also in the attainable models.

This year, I'm not going to repeat my wish for a new Orient GMT and 300m divers – maybe by some feat of reverse psychology, they'll do it when we stop asking… but I'll keep an open call for the brand to surprise us with something new, fun and cool.

Happy New Year to all blog readers and followers, and a happy holiday season to you, your families, and your friends. See you in 2025!

Orient's "ModeID" Watches

Once in a while, I like to dive into some of Orient's quirkier attempts at model naming – whether unexplained ones, like "Bronco," or models that actually did get an explanation, only a strange one – such as the "M collection" in which watch names go after entries in the Messier Catalog of celestial bodies. Well, they don't come much stranger than "ModeID"...

Introduced in 2008, Orient's explanation to the name was that "ModeID" is a coined word that combines "Mode" (meaning fashion) and "ID" (identity), and means the fusion of "fashion" and "being yourself." Yep, that sure clears things up!

The ModeID line itself (MD for short) was actually rather interesting. It included two versions – a square case and a round case, each featuring numerous references. They provided almost every conceivable combination of case color, strap, and dial color – mostly black or white (but also a few blue, red and brown).

Below are all eighteen watches included in this first iteration of ModeID. Note how references start with WD (like WD0011DB, WD0021DB…), unlike most Orients that would start with WV (like the MD contemporaries WV0011DB, WV0021DB, and so on, which were completely different designs).

The round case was around 39mm in diameter without the crown, 45mm lug to lug with a 20mm lug width, and 11.9mm thick. The square version was around 35mm wide and 46mm lug to lug, and a little bit thicker at 12.4mm.

Both types of MD watches used caliber 46A40, a very simple variant of the 46 family of movements. It was a time-only automatic movement, with no hacking or hand winding. Caliber 46A was mainly used for semi-skeleton watches, where the lack of day or date disks prevented the view of the internal moving parts from being obstructed.

The second wave of ModeID came in 2009, and this time, the watches had a very different styling. Orient referred to the new release as "Orient ModeID Dark Romantic," claiming its design conveyed "the duality of glamour and mystery" and "the establishment of a world view that can be described as dark romantic." Orient continued to describe how "the lustrously curved dial features deep colors reminiscent of the colors of Victorian furniture, creating a dark romantic atmosphere. Furthermore, the frame surrounding the date and day of the week further enhances the glamorous and mysterious image."

Well, that might sound like a lot of fluff, but the new range of MD watches was actually quite nice. The collection was much more focused, with just four references.

The new model made use of a different movement – caliber 46B46. Caliber 46B provided the date, day and a 24 hour sub-dial, allowing for a much more interesting – and less minimalistic – design. The new elaborate dial was, in my opinion, more true to Orient DNA, despite ditching the open heart window.

The case was 40.5mm wide, and 13mm thick – considerably larger than the 2008 release. And while the 2008 MD models were sold as Unisex watches, the new version was decidedly presented as a men's watch.

This, then, is the story of Orient's ModeID. A short-lived name and a bunch of colorful watches, some of which were actually pretty nice (which ones are those, I guess, is just a matter of personal taste!)

All photos in this story were taken from Orient catalogs.

 

Head-to-Head with Orient's Clubman Chronograph

In today’s post, I’ll dive into a head-to-head comparison of two intriguing chronographs that debuted at a similar price point—around $3,000 when new. One, of course, is an Orient: the Clubman Chronograph Reference WZ0031DS from 2007. The other is a Frederique Constant FC-392CH6B4 from 2010, which besides being the closest item in my collection in terms of price and function, also allows us to engage in an interesting Japanese vs. Swiss face-off (which I'll try to judge as objectively as one can!)

When it comes to dimensions, the Orient is 41mm x 49mm with a height of 15mm, while the Frederique Constant is slightly larger at 43mm x 53mm and also 15mm thick. The FC’s larger case size offers a bit more presence but can feel bulkier on smaller wrists, while the Orient feels noticeably more comfortable and balanced, especially with its bracelet. Weight-wise, the Orient is lighter at 105g (or 180g with the bracelet) compared to the Frederique Constant’s 116g. Both watches offer 100m of water resistance, so they’re well-equipped for everyday wear. The Orient’s 20mm lug width makes it versatile, whereas the FC’s 23mm width adds to its solid stance.

The Orient WZ0031DS houses a Seiko caliber 6S37, operating at 28,800 bph with a 50-hour power reserve. It’s incredibly smooth to wind, set, and operate, adding a tactile quality that gives a satisfying feel in every adjustment. In contrast, the Frederique Constant uses the ETA Valjoux 7750, also at 28,800 bph but with a shorter 42-hour reserve. While the Valjoux is a classic, well-regarded movement, the Seiko caliber offers a slight edge in user experience.

My Orient runs at +9 seconds per day, while the Frederique Constant is at -9 seconds per day — both can be considered solid performance, especially since neither has been serviced since it was produced, but speeding up a little is definitely better than lagging behind.

From a design perspective, the casebacks differ significantly. The Orient provides a full view of its Seiko movement, which is sharp and functional, though it’s not highly decorated or particularly ornate. The Frederique Constant, on the other hand, offers only a small viewing window into its movement, but the rest of the caseback is richly covered, featuring the FC logo, gold plating, and a glimpse of the golden rotor, that make it visually appealing and elegant.

Both watches feature similar chronograph layouts with three sub-dials, but the Orient also has a power reserve indicator, which adds functionality and reinforces its sporty character. When it comes to readability, the Orient offers strong contrast and lume for low-light visibility. The Frederique Constant lacks lume and has medium contrast, which can make it slightly harder to read at a glance.

The overall finishing of both watches is similar on the outside, with smoothly polished, pebble-like surfaces. While some elements of the FC, such as the crowns and caseback, are more elaborately made, the dial of the Orient is more impressive on close up, with more layers and sharp use of color.

As for rarity, the FC is officially a limited edition of 1,888 pieces, not super rare then but also not a watch you're likely to come across on the street. Despite the absence of specific production data, it’s likely that the Orient is much rarer, especially given its limited distribution in the Japanese domestic market. This scarcity also helps the Orient hold its value exceptionally well, with pre-owned models often selling close to their original price. Meanwhile, the FC typically resells for around half of its new price or less, depending on condition.

Both watches bring unique qualities, but there’s something special about the Orient. Its rarity, unique color scheme, and even a certain legendary status among Orient collectors give it a distinctive allure. While I can appreciate the design and craftsmanship put into the FC, I find myself favoring the Orient. The specs, feel, and even my personal affinity for the brand tip the scales. Objectively, both are great watches, but for me, the Orient stands out as something special in my collection.