Earlier this month, Orient announced the new Mako GMT – a first new GMT
model by the brand in years. I was able to spend some time with this new watch,
and specifically – with the limited edition, gradient-blue dial reference
RA-BC0005L.
How It Looks
The watch is immediately recognizable as a Mako, or at least a very
close relative of it. It shares the main design characteristics of the standard
Mako, such as case shape, markers, and hands. That's not a bad thing, as Orient's classic diver-design model is quite handsome and, of course, enjoys considerable popularity and a good reputation.
The main visual differences are the addition of a 24-hour hand, and the removal of the day disc, leaving only the date indication. While day-of-week
displays have their proponents, I don't think it's a major loss, and since the
date window is roughly the size of the hour markers, it actually allows for a
more balanced dial.
The 24-hour hand is deliberately and rightfully more subtle and does not stand out against the dial as much as the familiar hour, minute, and second hands. In this particular version, the watch face is painted in a deep, rich
shade of blue, and the 24-hour hand is lighter blue.
The rotating bezel presents 24 hours, allowing the wearer to adjust the
time pointed to by the 24 hour hand. It complements the dial colors with a very
pleasing combination of blue for the upper half, and dark grey – titanium-like
shade – for the lower half.
While most of the case and bracelet metal is left in its natural color, the crown and bezel sides are blackened. I'm not sure how much that enhances the look of this watch, but it is the sort of thing Orient likes to include in its special editions. I'd be happier without this black plating,
at least on the crown, but it is not a big deal.
All in all, if you like how the standard Mako looks, then you will not
be disappointed by the Mako GMT.
How It Wears
The Mako GMT is larger than the standard, non-GMT version. Case width is
42.8mm (instead of 41.8), lug-to-lug length grew from 46.8 to 49.5mm, and
thickness grew from 12.8 to 13.4mm. It also feels proportionally heavier,
though I do not have the exact weight at the time of writing.
Despite the size, it is still quite comfortable, but I suppose the extra
dimensions might make it less attractive for people at the lower range of wrist
sizes, for whom the non-GMT watch was still a good fit.
The bracelet was never the Mako's strongest point, and that has not
changed with the new models. When you just hold the watch in your hand and play
with the bracelet, it is noticeably rattly and even a bit squeaky. When worn,
however, it feels fine, and the loose feeling nearly disappears.
Lug width is 22mm, so finding replacement straps should be easy. I do
not think any aftermarket bracelets designed for the standard Mako (or other
Orient models) would fit here, unfortunately, but until vendors come up with
suitable end-links, a decent blue or black rubber band might do the trick.
How It Functions
The watch uses a new movement, caliber F6P22, which hints at its old
relative that also featured a 24-hour hand, caliber 46P. The new movement still
offers a 40-hour power reserve, automatic and hand-winding, and second-hand
hacking. It's simple, and with most of the mechanical parts identical to the
familiar F6 movements, expect workhorse reliability and easy maintenance.
As far as GMT watches go, this is of course a "caller GMT", which
means you don't have a local time setting. Instead, you can use the second time zone, as indicated by the 24-hour hand and the bezel, to follow an "away time", presumably someone you need to call at their convenient time, hence the name.
Personally, I would have loved to see a true ("traveler") GMT
functionality – but I guess that depends on how much one actually gets to
travel in different time zones. The caller GMT, I believe, is more a stylistic
feature than a very useful function. A 24-hour hand, however, helps when setting the time and date, ensuring one does not try to set the date close
to midnight.
The screw-in crown works well here, and I had no problem locking and
unlocking it. Other than not having a weekday to set, it all feels much like
the non-GMT version.
Legibility, as with all Mako models, is excellent, in the daytime as
well as nighttime, thanks to the good lume on the hands (including the GMT hand)
and markers. The front crystal is sapphire, and together with the bulky case and
reliable movement, you're getting what seems like a good everyday watch you can
keep on your wrist no matter what work you need to get done.
Bottom Line
The last GMT watches made by Orient were some very fancy Orient Star
models. This is not an Orient Star and does not need to be compared to those models.
What it is, is a Mako – the good old beater watch we all know and (most of us)
love, only slightly larger and with an additional GMT function.
As such, it does not disappoint. It is wearable, useful, and attractive,
and priced roughly 15% above the standard Mako, it is still well within the
value-for-money price range.
The blog would like to thank Orient – Epson Europe for providing us
this Mako GMT for review.
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