New Diver and Classic Models From Orient

Last week Orient presented its first new Orient Star models of 2023, and today – it is announcing this year's first new non-Star models: a diver style watch (a.k.a Mako II), and a kind of Bambino with added sub-dials. Thankfully, Orient aren't playing the "limited edition game" and all the new versions are colors will be available in regular production.

 

"Classic and Simple"

Classic and Simple is the tagline Orient has attached to its line of dressy watches like the Bambino. The new model might be more Classic and Complicated, though, with the addition of two sub-dials, one for the week day, and another displaying the 24-hour time. The date window remains in its classic 3-o'clock position.

All these goodies are combined with a dial similar to the Bambino V2, with its roman numerals and thin hands, and placed inside a classic Bambino case measuring 40.5mm wide, 46.5mm lug to lug, and 12.6mm thick (only 0.3mm thicker than standard Bambino). The crystal is mineral glass, and lug width – still 21mm.

Five references are being introduced at this time:

·         RA-AK0701S (RN-AK0701S) with a white dial and a black leather strap

·         RA-AK0702Y (RN-AK0702Y) with an ivory dial and a brown leather strap

·         RN-AK0703E (Japan reference only) with a green dial and gold markers, and a brown leather strap

·         RA-AK0704N (no Japan reference) with a grey dial and a grey leather strap

·         RA-AK0705R (RN-AK0705R) with a red dial and gold markers, and a red leather strap

The new model uses Orient's automatic caliber F6B22. All references are similarly priced at around USD 280 – about 50 dollars more than the classic Bambino.

Will the Bambino's classic looks, and the charm of the domed crystal and dial, still work with the added complications? We'll need to see this one in person to judge!

 

"Diver Design"

Diver Design is how Orient refer to its models that are styled like dive watches but are not ISO-Standard divers, such as the Mako and Kamasu.

The new releases belong in the "Mako II" family, characterized by its big Arabic numerals at 6, 9 and 12. Other than the hour markers and hands, these are identical to the Kamasu, having its updated bezel and sapphire crystal.

Four references were introduced:

·         RA-AA0818L (RN-AA0818L) with a blue dial, and matching bezel in two shades of blue.

·         RA-AA0819N with a grey dial, and bezel with shades of grey

·         RA-AA0820R with a red dial, and bezel with shades of red

·         RA-AA0821S with a silver dial, and a grey and orange bezel

Indeed most of these models are not presented to the Japanese market – but then again, they already have their special editions available only on the JDM online store!

All references share the technical details: 41.8mm wide case with 22mm lug width, 20 bar water resistance, and lumed hands and markers. The movement is automatic caliber F6922, with its day and date display, hand-winding and hacking.

 

First New Orient Star Releases of 2023

Orient is today announcing three new references, the brand's first releases for the (already not so new) year: two Layered Skeleton watches, and one new version of the Diver 1964.

 

Layered Skeleton 

The Orient Star Layered Skeleton was first introduced in February 2021, and a number of references of this model have been introduced in the two years since its launch. Today, Orient are adding two new versions.

Reference RE-AV0B08L (Japanese RK-AV0B08L) features a textured dial bearing the model's signature herringbone pattern, this time in shades of deep blue. This watch would be regular production, and comes on a steel bracelet. At the current rate of the Japanese Yen it costs about USD 720.

Ref. RE-AV0B09N (RK-AV0B09N) has a dial with top layer that's sunburst grey, and a lower blue layer. It comes with both a bracelet and a leather strap, and is limited to 1,000 units. Current price is around USD 800.

Like all Layered Skeleton models, the watches feature a 41mm wide case, front sapphire crystal, the F6F44 automatic movement, and are waterproof to 100m.

 

Diver 1964

Orient introduced the "Diver 1964", a faithful reissue of its 1964 Olympia Calendar Diver, back in 2021. It announced a second edition of the diver in 2022, with a different design inspired by the Calendar Auto Diver.

Now, Orient go back to the earlier version, announcing reference RE-AU0502S (RK-AU0502S). It is identical in specs to the 2021 release, except this time featuring a silver dial instead of the black one. So you're getting the 41mm case, rotating divers' bezel, 200m depth rating, steel bracelet, and automatic caliber F6N47 inside.

The new Diver 1964 is limited to 900 units, and should cost you around USD 1,100.

 

Orient's Retro-Future Watch Reference Guide

The previous blog post contained an overview of Orient's Retro-Future line of watches. Since so many models exist in this product family, I thought it made sense to follow up with more details of specific references.

Below is the full list of Retro-Future references - sorted by designs, and in each design, sorted by the movement used (some designs featured more than one movement), model years, and references. Note that some references were in production for more than one year; and also, with some models, you might find that the year they were actually available in stores was later than the year they were announced.

Scroll to the bottom of the list for some technical details of the movements used throughout.

 

Model: Motorcycle

> Movement: 46S

  • Year: 2005

      Ref. WZ0051FH - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2006

      Ref. WZ0061FH - Blue Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0071FH - Salmon Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0111FH - Black Dial, Black IP Case, Leather Strap

  • Year: 2007

      Ref. WZ0171FH - Red Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0201FH - Red Dial, Black IP Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2008

      Ref. WZ0251FH - Black+Gold Dial, Black+Gold Case, Rubber Strap

      Ref. WZ0291FH - Black Dial, Black IP Bezel Case, Rubber Strap

  • Year: 2009

      Ref. WZ0341FH - Black Dial, Black IP Bezel Case, Leather Strap

> Movement: 40R

  • Year: 2010

      Ref. WZ0011DA - Red Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0021DA - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2011

      Ref. WZ0031DA - Black Dial, Black+Gold Case, Leather Strap

 

Model: Sports Car

> Movement: 46S

  • Year: 2005

      Ref. WZ0081FH - Blue Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0091FH - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0101FH - Red Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2006

      Ref. WZ0131FH - White Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

  • Year: 2007

      Ref. WZ0221FH - Black Dial, Black IP Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0261FH - Brown Dial, Black IP Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2009

      Ref. WZ0311FH - Black Dial, Black Ceramic Case, Leather Strap

 

Model: Camera

> Movement: 46S

  • Year: 2005

      Ref. WZ0031FH - Black  Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2006

      Ref. WZ0041FH - Silver Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0121FH - Black Dial, YG IP Case, Leather Strap

  • Year: 2007

      Ref. WZ0181FH - Black Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0191FH - Black Dial, Gold IP Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0211FH - Black Dial, Black IP Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2008

      Ref. WZ0241FH - Black Dial, Gold IP Case, Rubber Strap

      Ref. WZ0281FH - Black Dial, Steel Case, Rubber Strap

  • Year: 2009

      Ref. WZ0321FH - Black Dial, Black Ceramic Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0331FH - Black Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

> Movement: 40S

  • Year: 2010

      Ref. WZ0071DK - Blue Dial, Blue IP Bezel Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2011

      Ref. WZ0041DK - Black+Gold Dial, Gold IP Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0051DK - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0061DK - White Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

> Movement: F6S

  • Year: 2020

      Ref. RN-AR0201B - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. RN-AR0202E - Green Dial, Black IP Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. RN-AR0203Y - Brown Dial, Black+Bronze IP Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. RN-AR0204G - Jaguar Focus Dial, Black+Bronze IP Case, Leather Strap

 

Model: Airplane

> Movement: 46S

  • Year: 2006

      Ref. WZ0141FH - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0151FH - Blue Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0161FH - Red Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

 

Model: Interior (ladies)

> Movement: 557

  • Year: 2006

      Ref. WZ0261NR - Red Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0271NR - Silver Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0281NR - Mustard Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

 

Model: Stationery (ladies)

> Movement: 46X

  • Year: 2007

      Ref. WZ0011FR - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0021FR - Violet Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0031FR - Orange Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0071FR - Pink Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

 

Model: Camera (boys)

> Movement: 55B

  • Year: 2008

      Ref. WZ0011NC - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0021NC - Black Dial, Steel Case, Leather Strap

      Ref. WZ0031NC - Black+Gold Dial, Gold IP Case, Leather Strap

 

Model: Bicycle

> Movement: 40S

  • Year: 2009

      Ref. WZ0011DK - Yellow+Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel+Rubber Strap

      Ref. WZ0021DK - Red+Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0031DK - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

  • Year: 2013

      Ref. WZ0081DK - Turquoise Dial, Steel Case, Steel+Rubber Strap

      Ref. WZ0091DK - Black Dial, Black IP Case, Steel+Rubber Strap

 

Model: SUV

> Movement: 40R

  • Year: 2012

      Ref. WZ0091DA - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0101DA - Red Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0111DA - Green Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

 

Model: Guitar

> Movement: 40R

  • Year: 2013

      Ref. WZ0161DA - Blue Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0171DA - Red Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0191DA - Wood Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0201DA - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

> Movement: F6S

  • Year: 2021

      Ref. RN-AR0202R - Red Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. RN-AR0203G - Jaguar Focus Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

 

Model: Turntable

> Movement: 40S

  • Year: 2015

      Ref. WZ0231DK - Black Dial, Grey + Gold IP Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0241DK - Black Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

      Ref. WZ0251DK - Silver Dial, Steel Case, Steel Strap

 

Details of movements used by Orient in the aforementioned models – newer movements first:

  • Caliber F6 (symbol AR)

      22 jewels, hacking and hand winding.

      Featuring central seconds.

      Accuracy: +25 / -15 sec. per day

  • Caliber 40R (symbol DA)

      22 jewels, hacking and hand winding.

      Featuring central seconds, and power reserve indicator.

      Accuracy: +25 / -15 sec. per day

  • Caliber 40S (symbol DK)

      24 jewels, hacking and hand winding.

      Featuring small seconds, and power reserve indicator.

      Accuracy: +25 / -15 sec. per day

  • Caliber 46X (symbol FR)

      23 jewels, no hacking or hand winding.

      Featuring small seconds, and power reserve indicator.

      Used in non-skeletonized watches.

      Accuracy: +25 / -15 sec. per day

  • Caliber 46S (symbol FH)

      23 jewels, no hacking or hand winding.

      Featuring small seconds, and power reserve indicator.

      Accuracy: +25 / -15 sec. per day

  • Caliber 557 (symbol NR)

      21 jewels, no hacking or hand winding.

      Featuring central seconds, and date wheel.

      Used in non-skeletonized watches.

      Accuracy: +40 / -30 sec. per day

  • Caliber 55B (symbol NC)

      21 jewels, no hacking or hand winding.

      Featuring central seconds.

      Accuracy: +40 / -30 sec. per day

 

A Retrospective of Orient's Retro-Future Watches

In 2005 Orient launched a new design concept under the name of "Retro Future". The concept combined Orient's watchmaking approach with elements from the industrial design of the 1950s.

The 1950s (or "Mid-Century") were the post-war years, and new design trends that emerged were characterized as optimistic and commercialist. They involved natural, organic shapes, whose mass production was enabled by modern manufacturing techniques, allowing them to reach growing consumer markets in America and Europe.

As Orient were exploring new ways to take their new Open Heart architecture forward, the adoption of mid-century industrial design must have made a lot of sense: the fun, sometimes larger-than-life approach suited the brand's design philosophy well.

Over the years, Orient produced numerous retro-future models, mostly under the Orient Star sub-brand. Some of these were already mentioned, or reviewed in past blog posts. In this post we won't dive too deeply into watch specifications; instead I'm looking to provide a high-level guide to the various designs introduced by Orient.

 

The Orient Star Retro-Future "Motorcycle" watch was first introduced in 2005. Like almost all Retro-Future models that would follow, it is characterized by a semi-skeletonized dial. The watch case is sculptured into an organic, flowing shape – this is particularly evident in the lugs that are quite different from any preceding Orient watches.

Other motorcycle elements include the power-reserve indicator that's shaped like a tachometer, and the plates on the right side of the dial that are clearly inspired by the shape of the gas tank. Possibly the crown also was made to resemble a fuel cap.

 

Another model launched in 2005 was inspired by sports cars. The case is a more elongated, somewhat barrel-like shape. Here, the power reserve indicator is made to look like a speedometer, and the bracelet resembles the timing chain of a car engine.

Curiously, the open heart section of the dial is hidden by a little element shaped like a steering wheel.

 

The third Retro-Future model presented in 2005 was also the most popular, and the one that received the most versions and iterations throughout the years – despite, or maybe because of, having a more subtle design where the "retro" elements blended very organically with natural elements of watch design.

Here, the bezel was adorned with typography inspired by lens apertures; the crown inspired by shutter release buttons, and the open heart was covered by a lens. There you have it, a camera!

 

Having already launched car and motorcycle-inspired watches, doing something with an airplane was a logical next step. So in 2006, Orient did just that.

At the center of the Retro-Future Airplane's dial is an "instrument panel" with the PR and small-second sub dials; the hour and minute hands are shaped (a little bit, you need to use your imagination here…) like a propeller. And, the end links of the bracelet are meant to resemble wing flaps.

An interesting feature here is the 12 o'clock marker – this one's not actually inspired by any part of an airplane, but by classic pilot watches.

 

Another model introduced in 2006 was the Retro-Future "Interior" – although "Sofa" would have been the more appropriate name. This was the first of the Retro Future watches designed for women, and the first to feature a full dial, without skeletonization.

The watch is said to have been influenced by classic 1950s Italian sofa design. The shape of the case follows the outlines of the armrest of the sofa; the curved, silky dial is reminiscent of a pillow.

 

The second Retro-Future watch for women, and the only other non-skeletonized model here, was the Stationery, released in 2007.

While not too much information exists, it seems that the main inspiration for this model was an award-winning pencil sharpener designed by none other than the legendary Raymond Loewy, the most prominent creator of iconic product designs from the 1930s until the 1960s.

 

In 2008, Orient released yet another small Retro-Future watch – this time, an undersized version of the Camera model, reduced from 38mm (41 with the crown-guard) to 35mm. Retaining the skeletonized, more rugged look of the original, Orient did not call this a ladies' watch, but rather a "boys" watch.

Other than omitting the power reserve indicator, this model retained most design features and "camera inspiration" of the original, larger version.

 

In 2009, Orient returned to the drawing table to produce a proper new Retro-Future watch, the Bicycle.

The watch featured plenty of references to bicycle design, such as the unique tube-like lugs, the bracelet that combined rubber and steel to look more like the bicycle chain, and various dial elements.

In addition, the crown is on the left side of the case, which Orient claimed makes riding with cycling gloves easier.

 

It took three more years for Orient to return with yet another new model – this time, inspired by SUVs. Mind you they had retro SUVs in mind – ones that actually trod through mud, not modern, comfy family carriers!

The 2012 SUV watch was an appropriately tough-looking piece, with a skid-plate-like bracelet and an element resembling a grill guard "protecting" the grill shape on the dial. A few symbols printed on the dial were also meant to remind one of dashboard signs.

 

In 2013 Orient released what might be its best-loved Retro Future design, the "Guitar". It had numerous guitar-inspired features on the dial, like a white "pickguard", and an hour marker shaped like a pick at 12.

The Guitar was the only World Timer in the Retro Future family, and instead of the usual country or airport names, its rotating internal bezel featured mostly famous music festival locations.

 

In 2015 Orient wrapped up a decade of Orient Star Retro-Future releases with the "Turntable", a suitable musical follow-up to the guitar watch.

Here the dial has circular grooves like a vinyl record; the bezel has the appearance of a platter on which the record is put, and the crown guard extends into what looks very much like the tonearm.

Note that this was the first (and last) Retro Future watch that carried a standard Orient Star logo – not the special logo applied to all previous models.

 

As the Retro-Future series was coming to an end, Orient shifted its focus to the Modern Skeleton, a more consistent semi-skeleton design that is still going strong today.

During its heyday, though, the Retro-Future series was constantly going through an evolution of shapes, colors, and even movements. Its latest iteration, as a regular non-Star Orient, arrived more recently in the shape of the guitar and camera revival models.

The next blog post will be more technical, and will contain a complete list of Retro-Future references and main specs!