Orient Place Blog's 5th Anniversary

Happy birthday to me! It's the blog's 5^th anniversary. Yes, five years have passed since the first post on the blog. And, 12 months since the last anniversary post…

Over the last year, the blog continued to grow in popularity, with some 141,000 new views – more than 15% increase over the previous year – and 179 new followers on Facebook, now totaling 839. So once again – a big thank you to all readers, followers, likers, sharers, and commenters!

To celebrate the event, I ran a quick survey through Instagram story polls to see how blog followers would respond to a few questions I thought would be interesting – to me, and possibly even to Orient itself.

First question I asked was to find out what modern Orient that has been discontinued would fans of the brand like to see reborn with a current movement? I listed three models that did not have F6 movement – the caliber 46K40-driven GMT model; the famed Saturation Diver, which used cal. 46/40; and the cal. 40A50 Retrograde watch.

As you can see below, the Orient Saturation Diver won by overwhelming majority of 53% – and it's not surprising! I keep seeing posts on forums and social media by Orient fans yearning for a new OSD…

Another question I asked was about the use of Seiko movements to add new complications or capabilities to the Orient range – we've had a few such examples in the past, most recently (but still a long time ago) with the brand's mechanical chronographs.

So, between the three options I gave, 46% wanted to see Seiko's hi-beat movement revive the Royal Orient moniker; 29% hoped to see a new Orient chronograph using Seiko's current automatic movement; and 25% preferred to see a true (traveler) GMT watch by Orient.

Finally, I asked about the fan's choice of a vintage Orient that should be re-issued next, following the very successful line of recent reissues. There are many options, I chose three and could also have picked three others, there are still plenty of old classics that Orient can turn to…

The winner by small margin, at 39% was the 1962 Olympia Calendar Swimmer, characterized by the "case-in-case" shape. 35% loved to see a remake of Orient's first watch from 1950; and 26% voted for the 1970 Chronoace King Diver, which is quite distinct from other vintage dive models previously reissued by Orient.

On a personal level, I've added four Orients to my collection since the last anniversary. Each one, I think, pretty unique: the mighty M-Force "Delta"; the lovely Olympia Calendar Speed Data; and the utterly exotic and rare "Polka Dots" Royal Orient. Oh yes, there's also that cool "Bicycle" Retro-Future, that story should be posted here next month.

These purchases, besides making me very happy and presenting the uniqueness of both Orient's sportier and dressier styles, and in both vintage and modern models, are also indicative of how accessible such a collection is. Yes, some of these models are very hard to find, and can take a long while to acquire a rare piece in good condition; but the prices are still super affordable, as these four pieces cost me between 200 – 400 USD each.

To wrap up this festive post, I thought it would be interesting to engage the hottest tech in town: Chat GPT.

The recent announcement of a new Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton and movement caused quite a stir on social media, so I provided GPT with brief info about the new release, and copied onto it every comment I found from the various groups and forums where I posted the announcement. GPT replied with the following insights:

"Thank you for providing the comments on the new Orient skeleton watch. It seems that there are diverse opinions about the new model, with some users praising its design, upgraded movement, and slightly smaller dimensions. On the other hand, some are concerned about the legibility of the watch due to the camouflage of the hour and minute hands, and some believe the price is too expensive. Here's a summary of the key points from the comments:

1.       The new movement with a 60-hour power reserve is seen as an attractive feature.

2.       Some users appreciate the slightly smaller dimensions compared to the previous model.

3.       Legibility is a concern, as the hour and minute hands tend to camouflage with the watch face.

4.       The price is perceived as expensive by some users, while others find it reasonable considering the upgrades.

5.       There are comparisons to previous models, with some users hoping that the older models won't be discontinued.

Overall, the reception of the new model is mixed, with some users excited about the upgrades and willing to purchase it, while others have reservations about the price or design aspects."

GPT further provided some recommendations to Orient, including these –

"Improve legibility: To address concerns about the legibility of the hour and minute hands, Orient could consider adding more contrast or color to the hands. For instance, they could use blue hands, as suggested by one commenter, or any other contrasting color that enhances visibility without compromising the design;

Maintain availability of previous models: Some users expressed interest in the older models, so Orient should ensure they remain available, at least for a certain period, to cater to those customers who prefer the previous designs or lower price points.

Encourage user reviews and testimonials: By showcasing real-life experiences of users who appreciate the watch's design, performance, and upgrades, Orient can foster trust and generate interest in potential customers."

Well, I thought that was interesting. Oh, and the picture of the robot above was also done by Open AI Dall-e, in response to "a friendly robot checking the time on his wristwatch"...

That's it for now. Thank you all for following the blog, and keep sending in questions and providing feedback!

 

New Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton With 60 Hour Movement

An unexpected announcement from Orient today, as the brand reveals a new Avant-Garde Skeleton model that features neither their familiar F6 fifty-hour movement nor their modern seventy hour F8, seen on their flagship skeleton – instead, having a new 60-hour F8 caliber.

The new model comes in two versions – one in raw stainless steel that emphasizes its sharp, industrial styling, and the other with a somewhat sportier black IP plating.

The black model, reference RE-BZ002B (RK-BZ002B in Japan) comes on a rather fancy Cordura nylon strap with leather lining, and a matching black plated deployant buckle. The stainless steel model ref. RE-BZ001S (RK-BZ001S) is attached to a steel bracelet.

A third reference which will only be sold in Orient’s Prestige Shops in Japan is RK-BZ003S, and it is in fact the same stainless steel watch, sold with both the steel bracelet and the cordura strap.

The case of the new Avant-Garde Skeleton is slightly smaller than the previous Avant-Garde model – width is 42.3mm instead of 43.2, and thickness is 12.4mm instead of 13.7. It is longer though, at 50mm lug to lug, instead of 49.2.

The crystal is sapphire front and back, with the front having Orient’s SAR coating. You get lumed hands and markers, and a 100m water resistance. Lug width is 21mm.

The watch seems to boast pretty elaborate finishing – case polishing (“Zaratsu” as Orient like to point out) features alternate brushing and mirror polishing, and the skeletonized, layered dial likewise mixes matte and glossy metal surfaces. The bracelet looks well made too, and even the movement finishing, seen through the case-back, is quite nice.

Perhaps the most interesting part here is the movement. The new caliber F8F64 is clearly a close relative of the 70-hour F8B6X. It features the same blue silicon escapement wheel, and the same +15/-5 seconds per day maximum difference, and a similar layout with small seconds at six o’clock and the power reserve indication at twelve.

There are two big differences though, as the new movement offers 60 hours of power reserve – ten fewer than the first F8 movement – and, it is an automatic, whereas the previous one was hand-winding only.

In terms of pricing, the new model sits right between the older Avant-Garde (which while actually not so old, seems to be discontinued now) and the top of the line skeleton: while the old 50 hour model was in the 1,000 USD range, and the 70 hour skeleton is around 3,000 USD, the new watch is currently around 1,600 USD.

Prices are crawling up, then, along with the technological progress. Whether finishing is better than the outgoing model or not, remains to be seen in person.

The Hinomatic and the T-S Type Movement

We're now going back in time to the earliest documented history of Orient. We know some facts about its incorporation – how it launched as Tama Keiki Co. in 1950, and was renamed Orient a year later and launched its first "Orient Star" model – But there's very little record of the factory's watchmaking activity between then and 1955.

Then, in 1955, Orient launched its first documented in-house designed movement, the "T-S Type": a hand-winding, central seconds, 18,000 BPH caliber.

We do know it was not 100% made in-house, as some of the parts could not be manufactured by Orient at that time – it took two more years for Orient to accomplish the finishing of some of the finer parts of the mechanism. And obviously the design borrowed from an existing movement (I believe one by Citizen).

One of the interesting features of the "T-S" type was its hacking mechanism. This was not a very common feature at the time, and it seems its implementation by Orient had not been perfect.

Generally, when the second-hacking mechanism is engaged, it puts a sudden stop to the movement of the second hand, which can cause the balance wheel to stop abruptly as well. This sudden stop can cause additional wear and tear on the watch movement, especially if it's done repeatedly or incorrectly. Possibly, the "T-S" was not properly designed to withstand the additional stress caused by the second-hacking mechanism. Ultimately, many watchmakers removed the hacking mechanism when the "T-S" was brought in for repair.

Anyway, the movement was good enough to form the basis for the brand's new watch, the "Orient Star Hinomatic". It was not, of course, automatic – all Orients at the time were purely hand-winding machines – but it was manufactured at the brand's Hino factory in Japan. And it also became the brand's first export, as Hinomatics began selling in China.

Note that while some sources mentioned the Hinomatic as the first central-second Orient, it was in fact preceded by the Orient Star Center-Second (that used a non-Orient movement).

The Hinomatic Sports was produced in a number of versions until 1957, when the T-S type was replaced by the improved T type movement that spawned an abundance of new models. But – that would be the topic of a new post…

 

Pictures that appear in this post were taken from the 1999 Orient Watch Catalog book, and old Orient sale ads.

 

The Orient M-Force "Beast 2 / Delta"

M-Force. Beast. Delta. The words alone make you think of a mighty dive watch. Now think 49mm diameter. In your imagination, this already takes shape of something worn by a Viking, or by Arnold Schwarzenegger. Well… you're not far from the truth.

We've covered the M-Force lineage here on the blog before. M-Force watches, first introduced in 1997, were named after three "M" words – Mechanical force; Maverick design; and, Massive. Since their re-introduction in 2011 they were also built to meet three important standards in watchmaking: ISO 6425 for diving, ISO 764 for anti-magnetic watches, and ISO 1413 for shock resistance.

The model we're looking at today is the 2014 model also known as the Delta version, or the Beast II (Beast "I" being the left-hand crown M-Force released in 2012). Specifically, the red dial model reference EL07002H, or JDM reference WV0161EL.

The Delta was, and to this date is, the biggest of all M-Force watches. Measuring 49.1mm across and 54.1mm long, it leaves behind models like the first Beast and the current M-Force, measuring 47mm.

The numbers could be a bit misleading though. Like many M-Force models, this watch has a somewhat irregular design. The crown guard is mirrored by a similar shape on the left side of the watch case, adding to the width; and it does not really have lugs, instead having an integrated bracelet dipping from the edge of the case, making it a lot more wearable than what 54mm might have you think.

Still, it's big.

Big, and tough. Taking photos of this piece with a toolbox wasn't so much a stylistic decision as much as being mandated by the watch (I swear, it demanded to be photographed this way!)

But, okay, enough with dimensions already. What else does this watch have to offer?

The first thing you'll note is the gorgeous deep red dial, shining below the sapphire crystal. Look at it closely, and you'll appreciate the intricate paint job. It has a non-industrial feel, which even reminds me of some "Urushi" lacquer-painted dials I have seen. That, along with the grooves and other marks and textures, makes the dial stand out – particularly, but not just, under direct sunlight.

It's not just the color, but the dial really works well. The applied markers are big and bold, and align perfectly with the minute track. The power reserve indicator is nicely designed, clear but not too intrusive, as is the date window. Other markings include the Orient and M-Force logos, "automatic" and "200m".

Legibility is aided by generous lume (as one would expect from a proper dive watch). Here, Orient even went the extra mile and added lume to the power-reserve needle.

The case is quite thoughtfully designed. As mentioned, its symmetry, other than mirroring the crown guard, adds character, and makes room for Orient to play with different finishing styles. So, while the top of the case, as well as the crown-guard surface and its left-side sibling are lightly brushed, the diagonal sides of the case are polished. This combination leaves the impression of quality and attention to detail.

The crown too is really nicely designed. It's big and super grippy, and fairly easy to screw and unscrew. The red ring is both aesthetically pleasing, and serves as a reminder for the wearer to keep the crown locked in. Note the slight wobble of the crown: it's not freely moving as in cheaper dive watches, instead requiring some minimal force to push around, but it's definitely noticeable. This feature is intended to prevent a knock on the crown from damaging the stem. Some people find this an unwanted behavior. Personally, I don't mind the wobble, and it has no effect while the crown is locked.

The black IP bezel is also worth mentioning, as it's among the better I've encountered – certainly at this price range – as good as Orient's legendary Saturation Diver. It provides a good grip and requires just the right amount of force to turn. It clicks into position securely, and stays there with practically zero back play.

The bracelet is solid, comfortable and well made. The clasp allows for micro-adjustment but does not include a diver's extension; and it is stamped, rather than milled, thereby becoming the only part of the watch which appears to have been compromised to meet a budget, with most other parts really punching way above its price point.

Overall, the Delta on its bracelet provides a well-balanced wearing experience, if you can pull it off. I'm not sure of its weight – clearly well over 200g – so other than size, this watch is intended for those who appreciate heft in a sports watch. But on my 7.25" wrist it felt good, the 14.6mm thickness is noticeable but proportional, and the case shape helps it sit nicely on the wrist. You never forget the watch is there – but you don't mind it either. In fact, you should very well like it!

The M-Force Delta is powered by Orient's automatic caliber 40N5A. It provides automatic winding and second-hand hacking, and well deserves to be called "workhorse movement". Its specs state +25/-15 seconds per day accuracy – mine does about +6 seconds.

The case-back, in case you're wondering, is solid and does not offer any view of the movement, nor does it offer any decoration. It simply bears the Orient and M-Force logos, and the usual technical info.

The M-Force Delta has been discontinued since 2016. You can find pre-owned ones, either with the red dial or other variants (black and blue) at around 450-600 USD, and once in a while a NOS/NIB one might pop up as well (not necessarily at a higher price). The rarer "Subaru STI" limited edition of the Delta is hard to find and likely to cost much more.

If you do buy a pre-owned watch, make sure you get enough bracelet links to match your wrist, as the integrated bracelet cannot be replaced with after-market substitutes.

If you like your watches big and tough, and got a wrist to match, you would very likely love this version of the M-Force. The combination of good looks, high quality, and durability, are hard to beat. And even if you do beat it, the M-Force can take the punch, easily.