Orient's Pocket Watches

Pocket watches emerged in the early 16th century, when portable timekeeping was first made possible by compact spring-driven mechanisms. Initially worn as pendants, these early watches were both rare and ornate - more symbols of status than reliable instruments. As craftsmanship improved, so did accuracy and design, and by the 17th century, pocket watches had become flatter and rounder, allowing them to slip more easily into waistcoat pockets - a style shift that coincided with changes in men’s clothing, particularly the rise of the three-piece suit.

Through the 18th and 19th centuries, pocket watches evolved into essential daily tools. They were refined with complications, robust cases, and eventually standardized movements that made them vital not just for gentlemen but for railway conductors, military officers, and professionals across fields. This golden age continued until the early 20th century, when wristwatches - initially a novelty and often considered too delicate or feminine for men - gained prominence during and after World War I, eventually replacing the pocket watch in everyday use.

Today, the pocket watch seems to be enjoying a quiet return, not as a utilitarian object but as a fashion statement. On recent red carpets, particularly high-profile events like the Met Gala, celebrities such as Jenna Ortega and Leon Bridges were seen wearing pocket watches, in a pretty extravagant manner, and in great stylistic sync with one another. A good excuse, then, to talk about Orient's pocket watches!

And indeed, throughout the years, Orient has played with the concept of a pendant or pocket watch a few times. Earliest examples were included with the Orient Star Dynamic line, in the late 1950s.

Both the round version and the triangular one (which was also discussed before on the blog) were pretty uncommon releases at the time, and probably produced in very small numbers. Hence, sample of these are near impossible to find nowadays.

With the brand's focus on wristwatches, it took years – in fact, decades – before considering pocket-watch format again. Indeed I've seen some odd picture of an "AAA 21 Jewel" pocket watch but that looked so out of place I am almost certain it was a re-casing of an old wristwatch. But the next familiar pocket-watch releases I am confident with, were quartz models produced in the 1980s.

All examples I saw of these items were gold-toned, and quite minimalist in design. They seem to have been mainly aimed at female buyers, to be worn as pendants.

Again it took some time before Orient returned to making a pocket watch. Around 2002 the brand released Orient Star Royal reference WZ0041EG, a truly fine piece in the brand's highest standards of watchmaking at the time. Hand-wound caliber 48A40 ensured an accuracy of +10,-5 seconds per day and 50 hours of power reserve.

A few years had passed and Orient Star Royal became "Royal Orient". Some of the older models were discontinued, but the pocket piece was among the lucky few to get rebranded, and so – we got reference WE0041EG, essentially the same watch but arguably carrying the nicer logo.

Note that these models, despite being of a much higher quality (and price point) than their quartz predecessors, were only produced in Stainless Steel – and I feel the subtle elegance of these was indeed much better suited for the pocket watch concept than the gold paint of the quartz.

Orient's last batch of pocket watches was produced in the early 2010s. These weren't Royal or Star but "regular" models, yet they were quite nicely designed and made. These included WV0011DD and WV0031DD pictured above, and WV0021DD shown below.

The earlier references with Arabic numerals were introduced in 2010, and made use of the then-new caliber 48C40, a downgraded version of the Royal 48A40, having simpler decoration and reduced accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day. The last version, having the Roman numerals, was added in 2013. That was Orient's last pocket watch, at least for now.

 

Photos were taken from old Orient catalogs and sale ads, except the "celebrities" photo taken from GQ magazine.

Orient's Multi-Eye Watches

Orient's fascination with "interesting" (or strange / complicated, as you prefer) dials has previously been discussed on the blog. One way Orient used to achieve this level of interest, was the use of movements supporting multiple sub-dials. Today we'll look at one such movement: Caliber 46B, famously powering Orient's "multi-eye" dials (and its successor, F6B).

But first, an apology! As I was researching for this story, I noticed the old movements table I used in the "Caliber 46" post had an error… I saw it had Caliber 46C (as seen in this model) listed with the exact same specs as the 46B, which made no sense.

Indeed, that was a mistake. The difference, of course, is that 46C has the same day-of-week hand, but does not feature the 24-hour hand that 46B has! Well, error fixed. I know many of you take to the blog to obtain accurate, reliable Orient information, so whenever I notice an inaccuracy (which can happen) I aim to fix it immediately.

Take a quick look at the 46B's documentation and you'll immediately notice a slight problem: if you arrange the movement "properly" as shown in the diagram, you need to place the watch crown at the awkward 2:30 position.

However, never reluctant to play oddball, this was exactly how Orient first presented this movement. In the image below are two early models, proudly boasting the symmetrical dial position. The axis of the two sub-dials is placed at the same "height", and the crown is unashamedly sticking out at 2:30 (or closer to 2:36, it seems).

And of course, Orient being Orient, moving from the first to the second series they shrunk the 24 hour sub-dial, making sure even the dial symmetry is gone.

In the next two models, nothing seems to be in its right place. The sub-dials are at 11 and 3, and the crown is at half past 3. However, somehow this arrangement, aligning along some imaginary diagonal axis, is more eye-pleasing than the previous.

When Orient introduced more complex layouts, with the addition of an internal rotating bezel, two benefits were gained: first, the additional crown for rotating the bezel balanced the main crown; secondly, with the dial now busier anyway, the location of the sub-dials becomes less of an issue. In other words: when things get confusing, just keep making them more complicated, until you reach a level where it all makes sense.

Also, the more sporty the design, and less “dressy”, the less of an issue is the dial layout. This is true for the almost-classic “defender” field watch (which was later replaced with a new movement allowing the crown to move to 3 o’clock), and for the hefty-looking beast on the left, in the next picture.

And of course, you can always go for a non-round case shape, where all expectations for familiar watch designs get ditched anyhow. Consider this chubby barrel-case model – or the chunky rectangular one. Yes the dial looks odd. Okay, we accept it for what it is.

Luckily, it wasn't all strangeness for the sake of strangeness. Once in a while, Orient's designers did the other thing they know quite, and harnessed their creativity to produce something truly good-looking.

The sun and moon watch was probably the best application of caliber 46B. Here Orient replaced the simple 24 hour hand with a rotating disc portraying the movement of the sun and the moon. Still a busy dial, but now it's busy working for the greater good.

Having achieved greatness, caliber 46B was finally ready to retire. Orient replaced it with caliber F6B, offering similar functions but now operating much better, with modern features like hand-winding and hacking. And having learned its lesson, Orient's manuals now show it with the crown at 3 o'clock.

New models using the F6B movement are identified by the “AK” part of the reference code, replacing the old “ET” indication. As one may expect, the new designs are not too adventurous. For instance, pictured above are the current Defender and multi-eye Bambino.

Below you can see the updated Sun and Moon watch. Here you can see two formats of this design – the Bambino style in 41.5mm, and a larger, sportier version in 42.5mm.

If you’re looking for something more fancy, there is also the 41.5mm contemporary-style sun and moon – or, for the ladies, 36mm decorated models like this mother-of-pearl piece.

So, that is the story of Orient multi-eye watches: plenty of goofy stuff, undeniable creativity, and occasionally some nice-looking products.

 

Photos were taken from Orient manuals, catalogs and sale ads.

 

A Decade of Orient Watch Releases – What the Numbers Reveal

As longtime readers of Orient Place know, I’ve been compiling stats about this blog’s activity for years – often sharing some fun insights in the annual anniversary posts. This time, I thought it would be interesting to look outward: to dive into publicly available data about Orient’s actual watch releases and see what patterns might emerge.

Over the past ten years, Orient has been consistently enriching its catalog with a mix of new models and variations on existing designs. By analyzing over 170 releases between 2015 and 2024, some patterns become clear – and they offer clues not only to the company’s product strategy, but also to what we might expect next.

 

The Big Picture

I scanned around 175 releases, as advertised on the brand's website. I was interested in release dates (as I wanted to observe seasonality), and also wanted to separate new designs from variants (such as new dial colors or plating options), and to distinguish between Orient branded releases, Orient Star, and other "fashion" sub-brands like "iO" and "Moussy".

Overall, releases were split quite evenly between 81 new designs and 94 variants. Among the three major product lines:

• Orient Star led with 99 releases, focusing heavily on variations.
• Orient followed with 61 releases, showing a balanced mix of new and variant designs.
• The Fashion lines saw only 15 releases, most of them new. Note that while Orient would rarely release "new" models with very slight changes from existing ones, this is much more likely to happen with the Fashion lines, which are driven more by design than function.

 

When Are New Watches Released?

There’s a clear seasonality to Orient’s release schedule. The busiest months are February, April, and September, with February being the top month overall – a time that coincides with the end of the Japanese fiscal year. This timing might reflect strategic planning cycles, or simply a desire to capture seasonal market energy.

• February and April are rich in new designs, suggesting a focus on innovation early in the year.
• September and October lean toward variants, likely to refresh existing lines before the holiday season.
• The quieter months – January and December – see almost no action. The single December release, a fashion watch, likely some Christmas gift idea!

 

Anniversary Years: Special Attention

Orient’s major anniversaries in 2015, 2020, and now 2025, clearly mark moments of heightened activity. During these years, Orient released an average of 9 watches per year – nearly double the annual average of non-anniversary years. This uptick includes both new designs and variants, with each type seeing roughly a 75%–100% increase over typical years.

For Orient Star, the trend is more nuanced. In non-anniversary years, the brand tends to favor variants, releasing more than two variants for every new design. But in anniversary years—like 2016 and 2021—this pattern reverses. The average number of new Orient Star models per year nearly doubles, surpassing the number of variants and reflecting a deliberate push for innovation during milestone moments.

In short, anniversaries are not just symbolic for Orient – they are creative peaks, often bringing with them some of the most interesting and original designs the brand has to offer.

 

Trends Over Time

Looking at year-to-year shifts, a few longer-term trends emerge:

• A variant-heavy strategy has been dominant since 2018, especially between 2021 and 2022.
• New designs spiked again in 2020 and are trending upward once more in 2024.

Meanwhile, product line activity has shifted:

• Orient Star consistently leads in activity – this makes sense, as the likely higher profit margin justifies more research and development.
• Orient models dropped off slightly in the late 2010s but are now recovering.
• Fashion lines peaked in 2015 and have been minimal in recent years.

 

Forecasting the Future

Orient’s release schedule over the past decade reveals a certain rhythm—one that allows for cautious speculation. While each year brings its own surprises, the clustering of releases around February, April, and September appears consistent enough to serve as a rough guide. This year's activity so far supports the trend: Both February (actually starting January 31) and April brought about plenty of new releases, mainly variants.

Anniversary years in particular have shown a tendency to concentrate both volume and variety in these peak months. If 2025 follows the precedent set in 2015 and 2020, we may well see more activity in the autumn, likely in the form of additional variants and, perhaps, a few new designs.

Naturally, no chart can predict a design team's creative process. This analysis is offered in the same spirit as much of what we do here – part appreciation, part curiosity, and mostly just for the fun of it.

 

Final Thoughts

Of course, there are many factors that influence when a watch brand chooses to release new models—market demands, production schedules, and global events to name just a few. This analysis isn’t meant to be predictive in any serious way. It’s just a fun look at how Orient has operated over the past decade, and a small way to appreciate the rhythm and strategy behind the brand’s ongoing evolution.

And who knows? If the numbers hint at what’s to come, all the better for us collectors.

P.S. Yes I did pick the Grand Prix Triostat for the accompanying photoshoot. It's about stats. And it's a triostat. Sorry...!

Orient Place Blog's 7th Anniversary

So here we are again – another lap around the sun, and Orient Place blog turns seven. As always, it’s time to take a moment to look back at the past twelve months, to reflect, analyze, and share a few thoughts.

Over the past year, the blog recorded 183,000 views – a marginal increase over the 182K we reached last year. That means growth has plateaued, which isn't surprising considering the shifting patterns of online readership. Still, the numbers show there's continued interest in Orient watches, and the blog remains a point of reference for many collectors and fans around the world.

Twenty-seven stories were posted this year. That’s a little fewer than in previous years, but the mix of topics was rich and varied. There were two reviews of new modern models and two of older pieces; ten posts covered new releases; and ten articles looked at different product lines, features, or design themes. The rest were a mix of commentary and general watch talk. The focus may have shifted slightly away from individual model reviews, but the substance was still all about Orient, I don't seem to run out of topics…

Once again, the Mako 40mm proved its staying power. The hands-on review I posted the previous year remained the most-read article this year as well, drawing over 4,000 additional views. This makes it the top post for two years running – a rare feat on the blog, and a sign that this model continues to generate interest. The most-read new article this year was “Orient Does Snoopy”, which covered the unexpected co-branded release and drew more than 2,000 views. This was followed closely by an older post on the smaller Small-Seconds Bambino, which continues to perform well, and a newer preview of the "Classic and Simple" line for 2025, which earned around 1,500 views.

The same themes extended to social media. The Snoopy watch topped the Instagram charts as well, being the most liked photo I posted this year. It was followed by a shot of my Royal Orient WE0011EG – a personal favorite that never fails to attract attention – then an unboxing of my green Contemporary Standard, the arrival of the EX0D M-Force, and a vintage King Diver making a quiet, confident appearance.

Looking at Orient’s strategy this year, the most obvious direction has been variation rather than innovation. We've seen many new dial colors for familiar models – particularly the Mako and the Bambino – often in pastel and warm tones that seem to follow the trend that began with Rolex’s colorful OPs. At the same time, Orient introduced solar-powered versions of both the Mako and Bambino, marking a subtle yet significant expansion of the lineup into eco-friendly quartz territory. These aren’t technological revolutions, but they are relevant, practical evolutions that make sense for a brand whose strength lies in everyday value.

That said, there’s always more fans would like to see. Speaking for myself, I’d love to see Orient’s newer long power reserve movements – those 60 to 70-hour calibers – make their way into more affordable models, and not remain exclusive to the top-tier Orient Star references. I’d also love to finally see a proper GMT, particularly a true (traveler-style) GMT, something that Seiko has been able to deliver recently. Here's what GPT imagines such a GMT Bambino might look like…

And yes, I do miss some of the quirkier stuff. Orient has a history of creating bold and unique designs, and I’d be thrilled to see some of that daring spirit return – not just in Orient Star, but in the more accessible lines as well. A modern take on something like the old Direct Read models, for instance, would be cool.

Looking at the wider industry, not just Orient, it's clear the trend continues to shift upscale. Watches & Wonders 2025 gave us more of the same – brands chasing the high-end buyer, innovation reserved for five-and-six-figure pieces, and very little happening at the more accessible price points. Grand Seiko, meanwhile, keeps pushing out new models at a dizzying pace. Which makes me wonder – isn't it about time we saw the return of Royal Orient?

As always, I want to say thank you. To all of you who read the blog, follow the Instagram account, leave comments, ask questions, and send messages – you’re the reason this keeps going. I’d love to hear even more from you in the year ahead. Not just on individual blog posts, but your thoughts on new Orient releases, your experiences as owners, questions about service or quality – all of it. The more conversations, the better.

Here's to another year of watching watches!

 

April 2025 Watch Releases by Orient and Orient Star

Today, Orient presented a bunch of new watches under both Orient and Orient Star brands. These are not completely new models, but new references for existing models – generally speaking, new dial designs.

 

Orient Star M34 F8 Date

The M34 F8 Date is one of the brand's flagship models, boasting its 60 hour caliber F8N64, high-end metalwork and fine dial. Presented in February 2024 with white and blue dial versions, Orient have now added a couple of new versions.

·        A limited edition version with a special black dial with what Orient describe as a world-first "nanoparticle metal multilayering technology" creating an effect like a meteor shower (something that really needs to be seen in person). This version includes a global reference RE-BX0009B limited to 160 pieces, and JDM ref. RK-BX0007B (80 units with crocodile leather band, besides the metal bracelet) as well as ref. RK-BX0008B (20 units with cordovan leather band).

·        A regular version with a textured green dial, in similar technique to the white and blue colors, reference RE-BX0006E, or JDM RK-BX0005E with grey crocodile strap.

 

Orient Mako

Orient also present a number of new watches in the Mako family – including the standard Mako (which was named Kamasu and now, apparently returns to its familiar old name), the Mako 40mm, and the light-powered chronograph.

First, there's a bunch of limited editions celebrating Orient's 75^th anniversary, all featuring Orient's cursive logo and a unique stamped sunburst pattern, reminiscent of the old Seiko Cocktail, in a light shade of blue.

Global models are ref. RA-AA0823L (42mm Mako), RA-AC0Q12L (40mm Mako), and RA-TX0210L (solar chrono), limited to 6000, 6000, and 1000 units, respectively. Equivalent JDM models are RN-AA0823L, RN-AC0Q12L, and RN-TX0210L, limited to 1000, 1000, and 750 units respectively.

Then there also a few new non-limited colorways of the Mako 40: Reference RA-AC0Q09R (JDM RN-AC0Q09R) with a red dial, ref. RA-AC0Q10N with a dark-grey plated case and bezel and matching dial, having a black silicon band, and ref. RA-AC0Q11E with a green dial and silicon band. The latter two do not have a JDM version.

All models, Orient and Orient Star, are expected to become available in June.

Orient Star Contemporary Standard Watch Review

Orient's "Contemporary Standard" model was introduced in 2018. Originally presented in either black, blue, or white dial version, its design was almost identical to that of the 2015 "Urban Standard" titanium model.

Up until recently, the model's production continued to feature the same references. However, earlier this year Orient Star caught up with the popular trend of offering more playful, colorful versions of serious watches, a trend given the stamp of approval by Rolex with its Oyster Perpetual models a few years back.

I often get to review new models provided to me on loan by Orient, but this time it was different. The announcement of new Orient Star models for 2025, and particularly the new Contemporary Standard watches, caught my eye. While waiting for the new model to hit the stores I was contemplating hard on which color to pick, finally deciding on the green one – reference RE-AU0107E – and eventually purchasing the identical Japanese reference RK-AU0107E.

How It Looks

Orient's "Contemporary" models are characterized by sharp, well-crafted metalwork, the sort that often gets referred to as "poor man's Grand Seiko" (although with current prices, a middle-class Grand Seiko would be more appropriate) and this one is no exception. The case and bracelet impress with a precise, well balanced look that manages to be neither too elaborate nor over-simplified.

The dial of the Contemporary Standard is a bit more controversial, particularly because of the endless battle between proponents and haters of Roman numerals. I personally like Roman numerals and I even appreciate mixing those with simple hour markers to create a more interesting dial, so for me – this design works. Of course, if you don't like it then you don't, there is no wrong or right here.

For those who are fond of the design, this green dial is a great match. It is a metallic olive hue with a subtle sunburst effect that is emphasized around the hour track. This choice of color suits the watch very well, as it retains the "professional", dressy look, making the watch look livelier but not childish or too glitzy.

When looking more closely at the dial elements, the level of finishing is somewhat inconsistent. The hands and power-reserve gauge, for instance, are very finely cut; the markers are not as sharp, and lack the high-end precision that I found on the Modern Skeleton. Still it is all relative; nothing is coarse or badly made, and even under the macro lens you won't find the sort of rough edges that are revealed when examining cheap watches.

Overall, it's a really good-looking watch. The design elements that some might call controversial, in my opinion, add character, ensuring this Orient Star is not mundane or bland. The dial color elevates it from "cute" to "pretty," and the visual impact of the case and bracelet, with their alternating brushed and polished surfaces, makes sure it's "pretty and smart."

 

How It Wears

The Contemporary Standard is one of the smaller models among Orient's range of men's watches. The case is 38.5mm wide, without the crown, 46.9mm lug to lug, and 12.3mm thick.

A thinner watch of similar diameter on a leather strap might have looked undersized on large wrists, but at the given thickness, combined with the robust 20mm-wide steel bracelet, it does not. So the wearer can enjoy the comfort of a modestly sized watch without compromising on wrist presence.

Indeed, the watch wears well, although at 153g you couldn't call it a featherweight. As always with smaller watches attached to hefty bracelets, you get a good weight distribution that helps the watch feel balanced on the wrist and at times, one can almost forget it's there.

The bracelet itself is good, as Orient Star bracelets usually are. It is easy to adjust to size, and on the wrist feels solid, smooth and does not pull hairs or any such thing.

 

How It Functions

The movement inside the Contemporary Standard is Orient's caliber F6N43, same as in the larger Orient Star "Basic Date" – and honestly it fits better in this, smaller case, enabling the hands and power reserve indicator to fill the dial space better.

This caliber is automatic and hand-winding, with hacking. Its specified accuracy is between +25 and -15 seconds per day. The watch I got was doing +9 seconds per day; not exceptional but decent and within range. It is definitely good enough for owners like myself who rotate (and therefore set the time) almost every day.

Despite the watch's small dimensions, its crown is large enough and quite grippy. It's easy to pull and turn, so winding the movement and setting the time and date are effortless.

Daytime legibility is as good as it gets: the markers reflect light from every angle, the hands stand out well against the dial color, and the little bits of white color also help. And while I would love to see a date disc that's green like the dial, black on white is undoubtedly much clearer. The whole thing is covered by sapphire glass, with Orient's very effective anti-glare coating applied to it.

In the dark, those white bits become luminescent but don't expect a dive-watch level of nighttime visibility here. You get thin lines for hands and tiny dots for the hours. Better than no-lume you'd get on pure dress watches, I guess.

Another advantage of not being a real dress watch is water resistance: here, you're getting a fairly adequate 100m. Not a beater, then, with this pretty face, but not a slouch either. You can take this one with you on most daily chores.

 

Bottom Line

Orient Star's Contemporary Standard is one of those watches that's more than the sum of its parts. Its good looks, practicality, and appreciable quality combine to produce a very capable and attractive package.

Indeed there are elements here that might deter some buyers, such as the Roman numerals and PR gauge. Fair enough, not every design can please everyone, nor should it. But if these elements do not put you off (or perhaps you find them appealing) you will find very little here that will.

The pricing of this model is fair. The list price for the JDM reference is about 500 USD at the moment; the global market version appears to sell for about 30-50% higher in most stores. Whether shipping and paying taxes on imports from Japan makes sense or not is up to each buyer to do the math. For me, it did make sense.

Bottom line, this is one of the finer, reasonably priced offerings from the Orient brand. Choose the right color and get yourself a Contemporary Standard!