Orient Place

Orient Place

Sunday, 7 March 2021

What IS Good VFM (Value For Money), Anyway?...

One very general definition of "Value For Money" says, it is "a measure of quality that assesses the monetary cost of the product or service against the quality and/or benefits of that product or service, taking into account subjective factors such as fitness for purpose, along with whole-of-life costs such as installation, training, maintenance and disposal, and wastage."

In the world of watches and watch collectors, "fitness for purpose" does not concern solely the purpose of telling the time… as the purposes for buying a watch might include the joy of owning and observing it, expressing one's social status, as well as a sense of accomplishment in acquiring one's grail or a watch from a highly coveted brand.

Since we are talking about subjective goals, can we refer to a brand or watch as being objectively "good value for money"? To our point, can we describe a brand like Orient as a "VFM watchmaker"?

 

Objective VFM

A product can be thought of as objectively good VFM if it can be shown to be equal to or better than any comparable product, yet costing less. In this sense, if you were to take all dive watches and found out they all provide similar functionality, display similar quality, yet most of the cost 1000 USD and one costs 200 USD, then we might be tempted to claim this one watch offers better VFM, in an absolute way.

That might not be true though; because if one of these expensive watches is, say, a reputable brand that even non-watch-nerds recognize and admire, and the rest are not – well then, would that not justify the price difference, at least to some buyers?

In that case, you could say "the 200 dollar watch is the best value for money, as long as brand recognition is not a consideration of the buyers". In other words, while there may not be a single "objectively best VFM" it is possible to divide buyers into a number of segments characterized by specific requirements, and then to identify the best VFM product for each of the segments.

Mind you, this still requires certain conditions are met. In the example above, if not all the dive watches were similar, and the least expensive one was of lower quality than the thousand-dollar models, then calling it VFM would have been subjective, and would depend on an individual's willingness to settle for lower quality.

And, if one watch was more expensive than the rest but exhibited significantly better quality – some buyers might have argued it's actually the expensive watch that is great VFM, because the price premium asked was perceived as more than justifiable.


So, What About Orient?

We're not just philosophizing here, right? This blog is about Orient, and is Orient is often mentioned along with other Japanese watchmakers as a maker of generally good VFM products. Can we say this is true, in light of the analysis we just conducted?

We said the first thing to do is understand the market segments. In my mind, Orient generally targets consumers who:

  • care more about functionality and less about branding (and I'm not talking about brand loyalty here but about "brand prestige");
  • do care about design and looks but not necessarily on visual symbols of "luxury" (as opposed, for instance, to cheap watches that present guilloché dials copied from traditional Swiss designs);
  • appreciate a mechanical movement's reliability over time, while not demanding it offers chronometer accuracy.

This seems a very specific group, but in fact covers a lot of consumers, and is probably targeted by many watchmakers – not only Japanese. Several German brands for instance come to mind, as well as some entry-level Swiss, and countless micro-brands.

I feel that in this segment of the market, it is nearly impossible to point out any watch or brand that are objectively best VFM. Here you will find watches ranging from 200 to 2,000 USD, generally none being "perfect". The 200 dollar watch would usually lack solid end-links, or fine case finishing, or sapphire crystal, or lume, or whatever. The 2,000 dollar watch might have all of these components – but then, it will be let down by its price, where justification again would be only subjective.

Would an Orient Kamasu or Bambino present good value for money in this segment? Yes, it probably would. A person would rarely buy one of these and feel he did not get his money's worth. But, might a Timex, for instance, present similar good value? Well, I usually prefer Orient's designs and character, but I cannot say a Timex is less of a good VFM. This, then, is subjective.

What about Orient Star watches? They'd be 2-3 times as expensive as "regular" Orient models, or more. But you get better bracelets and cases, more complications, a little more of everything. Once again, when you buy an Orient Star you are most likely going to get a great value for your money. But can you say without a doubt it is better value than, say, an 800 dollar Mido, or a 1,200 dollar Hanhart Pioneer (just giving examples from my personal collection)? The Mido has chronometer accuracy; the Hanhart has an immaculate finishing and bracelet (and charm); both of them cannot be considered expensive for the qualities they carry, and neither asks for any real "brand premium".

 

And Then Again…

We cannot ignore the magic of an inexpensive watch. As collectors, the chance of buying ten 200 dollar watches instead of a single 2000 dollar watch, is enticing. It creates an added value, that is on top of the value of any single watch – that is, the value of a collection.

In other words, while we could argue that a Kamasu has a similar value-for-money "ratio" as the Mido diver, per a collector's budget, there is an appeal in getting a Kamasu, and an M-Force, and a Bambino, for the Price of one of those (admittedly very good) Swiss watches.

And while indeed there are other brands that could claim both decent VFM and affordable prices, I see the broad and diverse range of affordable timepieces from Orient as what really constitutes it as a VFM brand for collectors.

Anyway, that's my opinion, and my personal analysis… what do you think? Let us know what you think, in comments below, or on our Facebook page!

Sunday, 21 February 2021

A History of Orient's Use of Power Reserve Indicators

Power Reserve indicators have become a common feature in many Orient watches. It is a mechanical complication that not only adds functionality that is often useful, but can also enhance the appeal of a watch dial, make it more interesting, or visually balance other dial elements such as the date or small seconds.

In this article, we will explore the mechanics of the PR indicator, and the history of its use by Orient.


How Does A Power Reserve Indicator Work?

The power reserve indicator was first introduced in a wrist watch by Jaeger LeCoultre, with Caliber 481. Interestingly though, the watch you'd currently see if you visit the Wikipedia page forPower Reserve Indicator, is an Orient (and it wasn't me who put it there, I swear!)

The mechanism itself is not too sophisticated, in comparison to some other watch complications. Without diving into too many technical details, the PR indicator generally provides a measure of how wound the mainspring is. This is done via an additional module that connects to the mainspring barrel.

There are a number of different modules that can produce a PR indication. One popular method is via a differential gear, where the many rounds of winding up (or un-winding, down) are converted through a number of gears to a smaller turning angle, so that one might see the entire range from zero to full winding in something around 90-120 degrees, typically.

Another method is via a differential (i.e. tapering) screw, where the turning of the barrel would cause the screw to move up or down over a small distance, again enabling easy reading of the remaining power.

 

Orient's First PR Indicator Model

Orient introduced its first PR indicator-equipped movement in 1996, as caliber 46F. It was initially included in a series of Orient Star models generally known as EW00, with a follow-up series of similar design known as EW01.


Caliber 46F was a 21-jewel movement, featuring 21,600 vibrations per hour like most Orient movements, and offered a 40-hour power reserve. Its stated accuracy was within +25/-15 seconds per day. It only had automatic winding – so owners could not experience the satisfaction of winding the watch using the crown and watching the power reserve needle go up…

These early models were time-only pieces, and did not include a date or day mechanism. If you are interested in acquiring one of these references, please note they are fairly small, with a case measuring about 35mm across, without the crown.


Soon after, Orient followed up and introduced non-Star models containing the same movement and generally very similar features, as the EW03 series. Yes – some of those did feature cathedral hands… this is authentic.

 

Other Power Reserve Models

The power reserve indicator quickly became popular, and the brand added more calibers with additional features. Such was caliber 46G, which added a date wheel and in 1997 became the heart of the all-new M-Force. That watch boasted the advantages of its mechanical movement over the then-prevailing quartz movements, and thus highlighted its power reserve indicator.

The following table lists the various 46-series PR movements.



Orient continued to make use of power reserve indicators in later generations of its movements, such as in its series 40 and 48, and more recently in its F6 and F7 series movements.

 

The Power Reserve Indicator, Today

Throughout 2020, Orient faded out the use of PR indicators in regular, non-Star models, and has apparently decided to keep them as a unique feature of its Orient Star line.

Regular Orient models will have to do without this complication we grew so much accustomed to. Even the M-Force, a watch so strongly tied to the essence of the Power Reserve, had to bid the PR indicator farewell in its latest iteration.

With Orient Star, though, it's business as usual. The Power Reserve indicator was at center stage recently as the brand unveiled its latest Skeleton model with the new F8 movement, now offering 70 hours of power.


Photos of EW00, EW01, EW03 series, are taken from old sale ads. Other photography is copyright of Orient Place blog.


Tuesday, 16 February 2021

Orient Re-issues The "World Dial" Watch

Sometimes Orient really catches us by surprise and does something unexpected. Today it does one such thing, announcing the release of four new versions of its famed 1969 "Map Dial" World Diver model.


The new World Map is very similar to the original watch. You get the time, date and day, as well as an inner rotating 24-hour bezel. The crown at three sets the time, while the crown at four turns the bezel. Four variations would be available:

·         Reference RN-AA0E04Y is a faithful reproduction of the original map dial design in full color, limited to 1200 units (300 in Japan, 900 for export).

·         References RN-AA0E01S, RN-AA0E02E, and RN-AA0E03L feature the world map etched on an ivory, green or blue dial, respectively. The ivory version also features gold plated bezel and crowns.


All references feature a 20mm solid steel bracelet, reminiscent of the vintage bracelet style. The case measures 43.5mm wide, 46mm long, and 13.9mm thick – so, slightly larger than the original, but maintaining very similar proportions.

The front crystal is mineral, while the case-back is solid. The watch features a useful water resistance of 20 bar (200 meters). Inside is Orient's caliber F6922.

The different models are priced around 500 USD, with the colorful and ivory versions being a little higher than the green and the blue.


The blog's verdict: Orient has definitely pulled an ace here. In fact, they set a benchmark for other watchmakers on how to do a reissue. The watch, all versions of it, looks amazing and should sell like hot cakes.

New Orient Star Models for 2021

As expected on its sub-brand's 70th anniversary year, Orient continues today to introduce new models into the Orient Star line-up: we so, we get a new Moonphase watch without (!) an open-heart aperture, and a new family of semi-skeleton watches.


The "Layered Skeleton"

Orient are trying out a new style of semi-skeleton design with this model. Featuring the time, small seconds and power-reserve indicator, the watch dial is given added depth by applying different textures, making it appear as if a full-plate dial is slightly peeled off to reveal a little bit of its underpinnings.

The watch measures 41mm wide, 48.3mm long, and 13.6mm thick. Lug width is 20mm. Front crystal is sapphire while the caseback is covered in mineral glass.


Five references will be released, officially on March 25:

·         Reference RK-AV0B01S, having a white dial, and coming on a steel bracelet.

·         Ref. RK-AV0B02Y with a brown dial, and also attached to a steel bracelet.

·         Ref. RK-AV0B03B features a black dial – and likewise, a steel bracelet.

·         Reference RK-AV0B04S would be sold exclusively on "Prestige Shops". It has a white dial, and is sold with both a bracelet and a leather strap.

·         Ref. RK-AV0B05E is the Orient Star 70th anniversary model, and will be limited to 700 JDM pieces and 700 export pieces. This model comes on a leather strap and features a uniquely painted green dial.


All models use Orient caliber F6F44, offering 50 hours of power reserve, and a stated accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day. The different models are all priced the same, at around 900 USD.

The blog's verdict: it's the sort of designs one needs to see in person to appreciate whether they pulled it off successfully or not. However, we're being optimistic, given Orient's experience with semi-skeleton designs, that this is likely to turn out pretty good.

 


The Mechanical Moonphase

The new Moonphase model would please many fans of the brand and of the concept of a moon phase watch, who preferred a simpler dial design without an open-heart feature. Unfortunately, only a single reference will be released – RK-AY0108S – and it will be limited to 200 pieces only available exclusively on Orient's "prestige shops" in Japan.

This is the lowest production volume of any recent Orient model, and it also priced slightly lower than the open-heart versions, at around 1700 USD. Therefore, It would likely be sold out rather quickly. It is expected to arrive in the stores on March 18.


The specs are very similar to those of the open-heart versions: dimensions are still 41mm wide, 49mm long, and 13.8mm thick, crystal is sapphire front and back, and water resistance is 5 atm.

The movement is Orient's caliber F7M65 – probably just a non-semi-skeletonized version of the F7M62 that drives the brand's open-heart moonphase models. It has an accuracy of +15/-5 seconds per day, and keeps a power reserve of up to 50 hours.

The blog's verdict: yes, thank you and we want more!