The Orient Star Classic Watch Review

The Orient Star Classic is – as its name implies – a classic, and one of the brand's best-loved models. Featuring a traditional dress-watch style, without an open-heart or any Orient quirkiness, it might look almost too simple at first look. Is it? We're here to take a second, and a third look…

The OS Classic is one of a very rare breed of Orients that have gone through movement upgrade while retaining their looks, and the two generations of the models are practically indistinguishable when viewed from the face side.

The first generation Classics were powered by caliber 40N52 and are characterized by the letters "EL" in the reference (e.g., the black-dialed EL05002B). The first OS Classic models using this movement were launched in 2011.

The second generation, which is also the current one, was introduced in 2017. It is being powered by cal. F6N44, and is characterized by letter "AF" in the reference code.

Interestingly, the specs of both models are very similar, despite the F6 being the more modern movement. They are all 22-jewel movements that provide 40+ hours of power reserve and a stated accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day, and offer both automatic and hand-winding as well as hacking.

For this review, I examined two watches from the current crop – one black dial ref. AF02002B that was left on its original bracelet, and one white dial ref. AF02003W attached to an aftermarket (but well-matched) blue leather strap.

Other than colors, these watches are identical: a 38.5mm wide case, modest 44.5mm lug-to-lug, 13mm thick, and 20mm lug width. Water resistance is 50m, and the crown does not screw in. Both front and back crystals are mineral.

While the bracelet adds a certain everyday sportiness to the style, these are true dress watches at heart. This becomes most obvious when the watch is put on a leather strap.

Whether on steel or leather, the OS Classic wears comfortably and looks great on the wrist, whether it is a 7+" circumference like mine or considerably smaller wrists. That is a distinct advantage of the moderate case size and the conservative design.

Upon closer look, the quality of Orient Star manufacturing shows clearly. This is no "Cheap Grand Seiko" (as some like to think), and does not boast the elaborate finishing present on some of the more expensive Orient Stars. However – the case is well made and finely polished, the dial, markers and hands are sharp, and the bracelet is very good.

The movement is also nicely decorated for this price point, with a bit of perlage on the bridges and Geneva stripes on the rotor. Nothing too fancy, but it adds some purpose to the exhibition case-back.

Speaking of movement, the accuracy of both watches reviewed is around +15 seconds. Nothing amazing, but within specs. This is how they left the factory - I do feel that a decent watchmaker would be able to adjust them to better accuracy.

The MSRP of these Orient Star watches is a little over 500 USD, but they usually sell for under 400, and if you try hard enough you can find some in even better prices. Now considering the quality and reliability you're getting, this is seriously good value.

One last point to consider: not long ago the review of Orient's Bambino was featured on this blog. A fine, inexpensive dress watch from the same brand as the OS Classic and that offers generally similar esthetics (on some of its versions). One might therefore be excused for asking, what are we paying for when we're adding 200 dollars or more for the Orient Star?

Well – in this respect I can point out quite a few differences in favor of the OS:

·         The Orient Star's case is more finely finished with some subtle brushing, sharper lugs etc.

·         The Orient Star features drilled lugs, which many watch collectors like.

·         The Orient Star offers more classic dress-watch dimensions, and its 38.5mm width is considered a sweet spot for many buyers.

·         The Orient Star features a solid, well made bracelet.

·         Some better finishing and decoration on the OS movement.

·         The Power Reserve indicator on the OS is an added value for some – I feel it adds some interest to the dial while keeping it overall fairly clean.

And there's probably a few more minor differences that I've missed. But you get the point: there is real added value in the Orient Star classic, and while this watch is no match to the Bambino's "I can't believe I got such a nice watch for so little money", it is a step up in quality and still belongs deep in the highly-attainable price bracket.

I would like to thank Orient fan and friend of the blog, Mr. Udi G., for allowing me some time to play with, and take photos of, his two personal Orient Star Classics.

The (Rather Chubby) Case of The Orient ESAC-Q0

Earlier this month, I posted here about Orient’s use of “tonneau” (which means “barrel” in French but certainly sounds better) shaped cases, and gave some examples. Today I’ll focus on my very own chubby barrel, Orient reference ESAC-Q0.

There’s no denying what first association comes to mind when seeing this model: it is indeed very, very Franck Muller-ish. The artistic-looking numerals spread around the dial, the case shape of course, and much of the overall esthetics of the watch is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famed Swiss brand’s designs.

In fact, one might be excused for thinking that Orient has set aside its own design DNA in the styling of this piece, if it wasn’t for the fact that actually, many of these design elements, such as the extra-small hands and extra-large numerals, are quite common in Orient’s women’s models.

So is it in fact a feminine design? Perhaps this is just a women’s watch? Does it even matter?

Just a few days ago I shared here on the blog the announcement of the new Orient Star Classic Semi-Skeletons – bearing a design so gentle and soft that it completely lacked any “masculine” elements one would (stereo-)typically associate with man’s watches.

Indeed, some designs are just Unisex. Other than being subjected to one’s personal taste and preferences, certain watches are not meant to be limited by gender. I think this ESAC of mine is one such watch.

It might have been (in the past tense. It’s long since discontinued) advertised as men’s or women’s watch, or as unisex, depending on which seller ad you’re seeing. In terms of size, it’s perfectly large enough for my 7.25” wrists, at 40mm wide, 43mm long, and 13mm thick (curved crystal included). And that big fat polished steel barrel of a case makes it look even bigger.

And – if we go back to Franck Muller’s watches mentioned earlier – well, they too feature very similar designs, which other than size do not differ much between their female and male versions.

Anyway, let’s forget about definitions and comparisons and judge this watch by its own merits. I think it simply looks fantastic. There’s a white-dial version of this model that at least in photos seems less convincing; but this version in contrasting silver and black – both on the dial and in the case-and-strap match – works well.

Legibility is limited because of the small hour and minute hands, the overlapping time and day sub-dials, and the lack of any lume. Still, the high contrast helps to tell the time when lighting conditions are decent. And in any case, male or female, this is more jewelry than time-telling equipment. You’ll get better options, including many Orients, if clear legibility is your thing.

The movement here is automatic caliber 46C. This caliber offers 40+ hours of power reserve, and a standard accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day. Mine does about -3 seconds a day, which is pretty good. People usually prefer their watch to run fast rather than slow, but given this isn’t daily wear it does not truly matter if it’s slow or fast as long as absolute accuracy is decent.

The mechanism is fairly simple. You get no hand-winding or second-hand hacking. Also there’s no quickset for the weekday, you need to set by moving the time forward past midnight, till you are in the correct day. You do get quickset for the date though, using the crown in the second position. Time is set with the crown in the 3^rd position.

To be honest, given the limited legibility there wouldn’t be much need for hacking; or that given no-hacking, there’s no need for clearer legibility…

To sum it all up, this is a really fine example of inexpensive yet stylish watchmaking. The design is unassuming, despite reminding a knowledgeable enthusiast of certain more luxurious brands. The execution, as usual with Orient, is really good. No Orient-Star-level of finishing, but more than adequate.

I got this model on eBay for around 160 USD, which represents superb value even for a pre-owned watch. I would consider it very good value even if it was 250 USD, simply for its unique looks (assuming you like them), quality, and fine automatic movement.

 

New Limited Edition Orient Star Watches Inspired by… The Stars

The year is still 2021, Orient Star is still celebrating its 70^th anniversary, and more limited-edition watches are being launched. We are concluding the batch of new model releases that began last week with one more announcement that actually presents four different models – all are mechanically familiar, but with new dials – that are, honestly, quite attractive and unusual.

 

Mechanical Moon Phase

Orient's familiar semi-skeleton moon phase, in its "Classic Collection" form, is being presented now with a unique gradient green-blue colored MOP dial, somewhat similar to the recent limited edition of the Contemporary Moonphase.

The new look sure is eye-catching, some might call it too flashy, but it's definitely a design that cannot be ignored. Orient says it is inspired by nebulae. We are not going to argue over this.

Technically you get all the current features and dimensions of the other Classic Moonphase models: the movement is cal. F7M62, offering 50 hours of power reserve and +15/-5 seconds per day accuracy, housed in a 41mm wide case, and lug width is 20mm.

Front and back crystals are sapphire, with the front getting Orient's Super-Anti-Reflective (SAR) treatment, which is very effective. The case-back is also numbered, as the different references are limited:

·         Intenational reference RE-AY0111A, with a black cordovan leather strap, is limited to 100 units.

·         JDM ref. RK-AY0109A is limited to 200 units – and comes with a different crocodile leather strap.

·         Prestige Shop model RE-AY0101A is also limited to 200 units, and comes with both steel bracelet and leather strap.

The price is around $2,000 USD, with a small premium on the Prestige Shop model.

 

Modern Skeleton

The Modern Skeleton is another design that is immediately identifiable with Orient Star. With this 70^th anniversary release it gets the glittering dial that we've recently seen on some other Orient watches, such as the Layered Skeleton limited reference RK-AV0B05E.

Specs are standard Modern Skeleton: the movement is automatic, hand-winding and hacking cal. F6F44 with 50 hours of power reserve, case width is 41mm, lug-to-lug length is 49mm, thickness is 12mm, and the lug width is 21mm. The front crystal is sapphire, while the case-back uses organic glass.

Here too, the different references are limited:

·         Reference RE-AV0118L is attached to a blue calf-leather strap, and limited to 900 pieces.

·         JDM Ref. RK-AV0118L is identical to the global version, and limited to 300 units.

·         Prestige Shop ref. RK-AV0119L is limited to 250 units, and offers both steel bracelet and leathe strap.

Prices are around 850 USD, again with the Prestige Shop model being slightly higher.

 

Classic Semi Skeleton

The new version of the Orient Star Classic Semi-Skeleton was announced less than a couple of weeks ago, and already it receives a limited, 70^th-anniversary edition – for both the men's and ladies models.

The treatment here is somewhat subtler than the aforementioned Moonphase and Modern Skeleton editions, as is appropriate for the new understated style of the watch. The men's version gets a blue dial with sparkling "stars", and the women's model get a similar dial – plus golden bezel and crown.

The men's model is priced close to 600 USD, and includes:

·         JDM Reference RK-AT0205L with a blue leather strap, limited to 400 units.

·         Similar ref. RE-AT0205L is limited to 450 units worldwide.

·         Prestige Shop ref. RK-AT0206L is limited to 200 units, and includes two leather straps, blue and brown.

The ladies model is priced around 500 USD, and includes:

·         JDM Reference RK- ND0014L with a blue leather strap, limited to 300 units.

·         Similar ref. RE- ND0014L is limited to 150 units worldwide.

·         Prestige Shop ref. RK- ND0015L is limited to 200 units, and includes two leather straps, blue and brown.

Interestingly, while the men's model is produced in larger numbers for global distribution, the ladies' model will be available in larger numbers in Japan. Possibly an indication of the different watches' popularity in and outside Japan?

 

Orient Presents New Top Of The Line Skeleton Watch

As if the new line of Orient Star Skeleton models, with their F8 movement boasting 70 hours of power reserve, wasn’t enough – Orient have just presented a new flagship model to head this collection. At least for a short while – until the limited production run finishes shipping out the 200 numbered pieces.

The technical specifications of the new reference RK-AZ0003L are the same as the rest of the collection: the 38.8mm wide, 46mm long, stainless steel case houses the latest caliber F8B63 with its blue silicon escape wheel, and +15/-5 seconds per day accuracy.

The new dial appears to be even more finely finished than the original models (which weren’t half bad too). The minute track and sub-dials get black accents that contrast nicely with the silver tones of the other dial elements. And – whether you like it or not – the 12 o’clock marker is adorned with two diamonds.

Everything else is pretty much the same, such as the crocodile leather strap with its three-fold buckle, the front and back sapphire crystals, and no doubt – a high level of finishing all round.

For some added interest, Orient named this model “C / 2021 A1”, after a newly discovered comet by the same name, which is said to come close enough to Earth to be visible in the naked eye, sometime in December this year. This watch, however, is expected to be available sooner, in mid October.

The whole thing is now priced around 10% higher than the other references in the skeleton collection, MSRP placing it way above 3000 USD – among the most expensive Orients ever. Will it hold its price? How quickly would Orient be able to dish out those 200 units? Time will tell.